Which mode should I use on my camera?

Question

On the top of most cameras is a selector knob which will allow you to select different modes. These range depending on the camera, my camera (Nikon D5100) has several choices.

I have been told conflicting things about which mode to use. From my understanding most DSLRs have M (Manual) S (Shutter Priority) A (Aperture Priority) P (Program Mode) and possibly Auto mode. Some models (specifically entry level) have other modes some of which could be Night, Macro, Landscape, Portrait, etc.

I have been told by one person to use all available modes the camera has to offer as I learn more about photography. While another person said only use M, S, A, P modes and avoid all the rest while you learn.

Which of the statements is generally more correct?

A few notes: I have every intention and am currently attempting to learn as much as possible about the camera and how to capture great photos but I am a beginner. I shoot in RAW most of the time. And I want to capture the best possible shot with the camera (not have to process it in post extensively to get the best shot).

Asked by Lynda

Answer

Which of the statements is generally more correct?

I believe the first one is correct which is

Use all available modes the camera has to offer as I learn more about photography.

I'll explain how:

Most entry DSLR cameras have the following modes:

• Full Auto Mode: use this mode if you just want to get the shot, perhaps you saw something that will go a way and you want to shoot it fast but if you started to set your settings you will miss the shot, the fastest way to take the shot is to dial in Full Auto and snap the shutter.

• Scene Modes: the actual names differ from camera from manufacturer to another, but functionality is similar. You may find Portrait, Night, Landscape or Scene, Macro, Sports or Pets & Children. These scenes are still auto but each one is trying to set the settings according to the chosen mode. For example, if you choose Sports (sometimes called Pets & Children) the camera will raise the shutter speed to freeze the moment/action. Night will raise the ISO, open the aperture more, lower the shutter speed, raise the flash. So these modes are still auto but when you choose one of them you help the camera to make a faster decision about its shooting settings. Use these modes with the Full Auto mode to learn about your camera decisions by looking at the chosen settings in your post processing program. You will build a feeling about the shot if it looks nice or not and what are the settings that the camera used to develop this shot.

• Programmed Mode: This mode is more advanced than Auto Modes, it gives you more control on the camera settings. Basically you can control almost all the settings except for Aperture and Shutter Speed. You want to use this mode if you want to enhance your learning skills regarding changing everything except aperture and shutter speed. Learn when you should raise or lower ISO, when to raise your flash, and also how to compensate the exposure.

• Aperture Priority Mode: This mode allows you to control aperture and sets the shutter speed automatically. Learn how to control Aperture and the different effects by different apertures. narrow aperture allows great depth of field (for landscape) while wide aperture allows shallow depth of field (for portraiture)

• Shutter Speed Priority Mode: This mode allows you to control shutter speed and sets the aperture automatically. Learn the effects by slow shutter speed and fast shutter speed.

• Full Manual Mode: Full manual mode allows you to control all settings in camera. In my opinion, this mode is there in DSLR to force you to THINK before you snap the shutter. My father has been a serious amateur 35mm film photographer for 30 years. When I got my first P&S camera almost 7 years ago, he was very annoyed by how fast I used to snap the shutter button and telling me this is not the right way to do it.

• Bulb Mode: Keeps the shutter open as long as you are pressing the shutter button. Use this to learn about very long exposure photography and its effects.

Use all the modes to learn and practice. After time you will tend to use the mode that you feel it suites your needs, but you can't tell which one is it until you've tried all of them. Also get yourself into the habit of looking on your photos in your post-processing program and pay attention to the settings values, you surely will learn from that.

Answered by Akram Mellice

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How do you use the Depth of Field Preview button on a Nikon D90?

Question

I am trying my hands around using Depth of field preview button with my Nikon D90 and its 18-105mm Kit lens. I read some online material as well have seen some videos about using it, but so far I'm not having any luck.

I've tried the following:

1. First i set my aperture to 5.6,focused on some object 5-6 feet away adjusted the light meter and than pressed the DOF button.
2. Again changed the aperture to 11 with same steps than to 22 with same steps.

I don't see any changes when I do that, though. Now this means either I am really dumb (:)) or i am missing something. Can any one help me figure this out?

Answer

I hate to say this, but first make sure you're pressing the right button, as I always press the wrong one. There are two similar buttons. One is the function button near the top of the lens, and the DOF preview button is almost under the lens.

If you press the DOF button, even with the aperture wide open, it will make a very clunky sound, like when you press the shutter and the mirror bounces up.

At f/22 the image through the viewfinder should get much darker.

I'm pretty certain you can't reprogram that button on the D90.

Edit: picture worth 1000 words! This is a D80, but button is in the same position (from digitalreview.ca)

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What is the depth-of-field preview button on my DSLR supposed to show me?

Question

I'm fairly new to DSLRs and I've been exploring the functions on my new Canon 60D.

There's a button to the side of the lens described as the "depth-of-field preview button". Based on the limited description in the manual, I thought this would give me a preview of how the photo would look in terms of what's in and out of focus when I'm using Live View.

When I press it though, despite jerking as if it's processing something, I see no difference in the LCD screen. I've played with the aperture with no discernible effect.

Am I missing something? What should I be seeing?

Answer

DoF preview is difficult to use well. The idea is simple, but application much less so. Without DoF preview, what you see through the viewfinder is shown with the lens "wide open" -- at its largest possible aperture. This provides no guidance about how much depth of field your picture will have, because (unless you happen to be shooting at maximum aperture) the picture you're seeing in the viewfinder won't be at the same aperture as the picture you take.

In theory, DoF preview is a simple answer to that: it just closes the aperture on the lens to whatever aperture you have set for the picture. If, for example, you were going to take a picture at f/11 using an f/2.8 lens, the DoF preview will stop the lens down from f/2.8 to f/11.

Difficulty in application stems from two facts. First of all, stopping the lens down significantly makes the view through the viewfinder darker. Second, and more importantly, the focus screen on most current cameras doesn't portray depth of field very accurately. A focus screen that transmits more light directly through gives a brighter view. Since most people depend on autofocus for focusing and don't worry much about DoF, this is the sort of screen used in most current cameras. A screen can be built to diffuse the light more. This doesn't give as bright of a view, but also makes the apparent sharpness in the viewfinder drop off much more quickly when things are out of focus. This makes the DoF preview in most cameras pretty inaccurate. What you see in the viewfinder will show a lot more DoF than the real picture regardless of the exact aperture the lens is set to.

As such, to use DoF preview at all well, you just about have to do some testing to compare what you see in the viewfinder to what you get in the picture. The two won't be the same (usually, anyway), and it's up to you to train your eye to compensate for the different between what you see and what you'll get to be able to compensate.

One technique I've used with reasonable success is to take some pictures at a particular aperture (e.g., f/8) and set up a laptop screen next to the camera so you can quickly look from the viewfinder to a picture you just took. You can then adjust the aperture (with DoF preview) to get close to the same DoF through the viewfinder as shows in the picture. What you really care about is how much difference you see between the two. Let's say the viewfinder at f/3.5 shows roughly the same DoF as the picture on the laptop that you took at f/8. That gives a difference of roughly 2.5 stops. From then on, you can use DoF preview to adjust the zone of sharpness as you see fit, and know that you'll need to open the aperture ~2.5 stops from there to get about the same DoF when you take a picture.

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Is there a way to make the Canon 7D warn when a lens is not in Auto Focus mode?

Question

I pretty much shoot all the time in manual focus mode. I often borrow my girlfriend's most excellent Sigma 8-16mm ultra wide angle lens. She almost always shoots in Auto Focus mode. When I return it to her, I invariably forget to reset it to Auto Focus mode.

After her first wrecked shoot I got rid of silent mode for her 7D, so it would beep when it was focused. Hear the beep, ok to shoot, don't hear it, not ok. Right?

Well, her 7D doesn't work like that. She can shoot, with the beep, in manual focus mode and lose the shots because I didn't put the lens back into Auto Focus mode.

The three options I can see are never borrowing her lens, buying my own, or get used to the couch. None is really acceptable.

Answer

Why don't you set the mode to be manual focus and put a colored tape over the AF/MF button while you are using it and so when you return the lens, the tape will be an in your face reminder to change it back to Auto Focus mode.

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Can I make flash bracketing on my Nikon D7000 automatically take all three shots?

Question

I tried exposure bracketing and it works fine - I set the C(h) and hold the shutter button and it will take all shots while I am holding. However, for flash I have to press 3 times. Is there any setting to have flash bracketing to continuously take the shots?

Answer

Flashgun will do the job. Built-in flash is not able to fire continuosly in Cl or Ch

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How do I select a focus point on the Nikon D5000?

Question

My Nikon D5000 has 11 selectable focus points but shamefully I don't know how to choose another point other than the center point.

How can I do this?

Am I misunderstanding concepts?

Answer

First you need to set the AF area mode to Single or Dynamic on your LCD display. Then you select the point using the D-pad. You can quickly return to the centre point by pressing the OK button.

The difference between Single and Dynamic is that Single keeps the focus point wherever you put it, whereas Dynamic will try and automatically keep the object originally focused on in focus by selecting other focus points automatically.

Also note that if your metering mode is set to Matrix or Center-Weighted, you are still metering the whole scene (with a center bias in CW's case), not the selected focus point. Set your metering to Spot to meter from the selected point.

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What automatic modes are appropriate, if any, for outdoor vs. indoor situations? [closed]

Question

Possible Duplicate:
Why would I use manual camera controls instead of the automatic modes?

I am asking this question particularly relevant to photography in

1. Sunlight
2. Indoors

I hope the answer will give me some insight on how to use my camera better. Should I use auto mode often? I am newbie.

Adding : I am familiar with aperture, shutter speed, ISO and I have Nikon D5100.

Answer

I use a program mode the majority of the time that I am not in a studio. An example of that would be aperture priority mode - where I get to set the aperture and ISO that stays consistent, and my camera is allowed to determine the shutter speed to keep the exposure proper.

Full Auto mode, which many entry level DSLR cameras have, is great if you hand your camera to someone who is unfamiliar with the unit. Other then that, I rarely find a use for it. It simply does not provide enough options for what I want to typically do.

In sunlight for example - you may be concerned about the depth of field, which is controlled by the aperture. So you may choose to keep everything in focus by selecting a higher aperture value(eg f/8). Selecting this in the "aperture priority" mode will allow the camera to select a suitable shutter speed as needed.

Indoors you may be concerned with freezing your subjects. In this case you may way to select a fast enough shutter speed to freeze the action. Shutter priority would be well suited to this.

Experiment and you will find what you like!

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When using your digital SLR, how often do you keep your camera setting on Auto mode? [closed]

Question

I am asking this question particularly relevant to photography in

1. Sunlight
2. Indoors

I hope the answer will give me some insight on how to use my camera better. Should I use auto mode often? I am newbie.

Adding : I am familiar with aperture, shutter speed, ISO and I have Nikon D5100.

Answer

I use a program mode the majority of the time that I am not in a studio. An example of that would be aperture priority mode - where I get to set the aperture and ISO that stays consistent, and my camera is allowed to determine the shutter speed to keep the exposure proper.

Full Auto mode, which many entry level DSLR cameras have, is great if you hand your camera to someone who is unfamiliar with the unit. Other then that, I rarely find a use for it. It simply does not provide enough options for what I want to typically do.

In sunlight for example - you may be concerned about the depth of field, which is controlled by the aperture. So you may choose to keep everything in focus by selecting a higher aperture value(eg f/8). Selecting this in the "aperture priority" mode will allow the camera to select a suitable shutter speed as needed.

Indoors you may be concerned with freezing your subjects. In this case you may way to select a fast enough shutter speed to freeze the action. Shutter priority would be well suited to this.

Experiment and you will find what you like!

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What are the AF-A, AF-C and AF-S autofocus modes, and how and when should I use each one?

Question

I have seen these autofocus options on all my Nikon DSLR cameras (D50, D80, D90) but I have never really used them. There is the AF button on top.

What are AF-A, AF-C, and AF-S ?

How do I use each mode, and when? I'm interested in which pictures or situations each is appropriate for, not camera specifics.

Answer

AF-S is AF 'single'- your camera will focus on a fixed object when you press the AF button and will remain focused on that point for as long as you hold the button down. This is best for static subjects.

AF-C is AF 'continuous' - the camera will focus on whatever is in the relevant AF points (depending on how you have your AF coverage set up) and will attempt to keep the subject in focus wherever it moves, whether that's towards/away from the camera or laterally. This is best for continually-moving subjects, e.g. birds in flight.

AF-A is AF 'auto' and automatically switches between the two AF modes depending on what the subject is doing. This requires less effort on the part of the photographer, but you are relying on the camera guessing correctly what you are focussing on, and may result in unexpected focus.

For completion, on a Canon camera the equivalent modes are, respectively, One-Shot AF, AI Servo AF and AI Focus AF.

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What are the AF-A, AF-C and AF-S autofocus modes (Nikon), and how and when should I use each one?

Question

I have seen these autofocus options on all my Nikon DSLR cameras ( D50, D80, D90 ) but I have never really used them. There is the AF button on top.

What are AF-A, AF-C, and AF-S ?

How do I use each mode, and when? I'm interested in which pictures or situations each is appropriate for, not camera specifics.

Answer

AF-S is AF 'single'- your camera will focus on a fixed object when you press the AF button and will remain focused on that point for as long as you hold the button down. This is best for static subjects.

AF-C is AF 'continuous' - the camera will focus on whatever is in the relevant AF points (depending on how you have your AF coverage set up) and will attempt to keep the subject in focus wherever it moves, whether that's towards/away from the camera or laterally. This is best for continually-moving subjects, e.g. birds in flight.

AF-A is AF 'auto' and automatically switches between the two AF modes depending on what the subject is doing. This requires less effort on the part of the photographer, but you are relying on the camera guessing correctly what you are focussing on, and may result in unexpected focus.

For completion, on a Canon camera the equivalent modes are, respectively, One-Shot AF, AI Servo AF and AI Focus AF.

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What compact interchangeable lens cameras have manual video?

Question

I'm looking to buy a single camera to use both as a personal snapshot camera and as a video camera to document my artistic work (mainly kinetic sculptures and light installations). The micro four thirds format is appealing for its compactness, as well as the short flange focal distance which allows potentially broad lens compatibility.

I was all set on buying the Lumix G3 but then I discovered it has no manual controls for video. I want at least aperture priority as the Vimeo shallow depth of field eye candy effect is kind of important in my field... The Lumix GH2 has manual video controls but it's simply too big to be called 'compact'. The Olympus PEN cameras have manual video controls, but seem to get bad reviews for video quality.

What's a good EVIL/CSC alternative? Ideally no bigger than the Lumix G3 but with the video controls and quality of the Lumix GH2. Could I adapt+attach a lens with a manual aperture ring to the G3 (to escape the no-manual-controls problem) and trust the G3's auto ISO + shutter speed to give me acceptable results?

Answer

four thirds will limit the ability to get the "depth of field eye candy effect"

You don't need a small aperture necessarily but the smaller the sensor the harder this is to achieve, the Sony uses an APS-C sensor which will help somewhat in doing what you want. I don't believe the manual control is up to par with your needs however.

Depth of field can be manufactured in post processing if it is a top priority of yours, this would give you more flexibility with camera choices as you can fiddle with it later on and get the image nice and sharp initially.

The Olympus also has some magnificent controls in regards to manual control, I think Andrew has a good point there. I can't say that the times I've used the PEN that the videos have been bad for a four thirds camera.

You can mount pretty much any lens to any camera these days it needs to have both manual aperture and focus rings however. I would really try to avoid any camera that does "auto ISO" or "auto aperture" as the only way to achieve great results is to control all these functions yourself. In decent light that means keeping ISO as low as you can and using your aperture to control the light and depth of field.

In the end the GH2 may not seem like a compact, but as soon as you put big lenses on these cameras, how can any of them be called compact? The only time I find the sony NEX even slightly compact is when it has the 17mm pancake lens on, then you lose your ability for decent depth of field (unless something is at minimum focus distance), any other lens, even primes make them so big that you may as well just get a better camera that is going to perform much better under your needs.

If you want professional results, unfortunately you are going to have to spend more on a camera to get them. In the end I would just get a decent proper DSLR and do things properly the first time.

The Nikon D3100 is one of the first DSLRs out with full time autofocus in Video and the results you will get, along with the lens options at your fingertips without mount adaptors and having to resort to manual lenses is far superior.

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What are the benefits of Av vs. Tv vs. Manual exposure modes?

Question

So what's the benefit of using one over the other? The way I understand it, in Av or Tv, you only have to adjust the shutter or aperture, and the rest is done automatically for you...is this correct? Is there some advantage shooting with Av/Tv that I just don't know about?

Answer

First, I don't know, which advantages of Av/Tv you don't know about. :-)

For me, these modes are very useful, when I do not have time for full manual setting and I do not want to use full auto mode.

Sometimes for example I need the camera not to choose shutter speed less than 1/250 (when I use my telephoto zoom) but I am sure, the camera will choose acceptable F-number.

When I have camera on tripod and shoot some static objects, I use aperture priority as the time can be 20 seconds, when necessary.

The priority programs give me relative freedom to set only, what I need without need to care about the other settings. So I can better focus on photo itself - composition etc.

Sometimes I also use full manual mode - when I have enough time and want to fully control the camera.

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How useful is the top LCD screen on a DSLR ?

Question

I don't own a DSLR (yet), so i do not have an opinion on the question, but I'm really curious about the usefulness of a top LCD screen, as found on cameras like the Nikon D90 or d60 and up.

Does you feel you are more productive with this screen?

Do the people that do not have it feel like they are missing something ?

(I'm talking about the LCD screen next to the shutter button, not the one inside the viewfinder.)

Answer

It's hard to say really, I find it indispensable, but that's mainly because I'm so used to using it. But it's really the information that I rely on, not the location of the screen.

It's a bit of a hangover to the film days when there wasn't a rear LCD. You could say it's easier to pull back and look at the rear LCD screen than to pull back and rotate the camera to look at the top. In fact I believe some film cameras such as the Minolta Maxxum 7 had exposure information LCD screens on the back instead of the top.

I'm not sure I buy the point about the LCD screen being too bright when your eyes are adjusted to starlight. You can turn the brightness right down, and/or stick an ND gel over the rear screen when doing astrophotography if necessary.

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In Canon EOS 1100D how do you manually set shutter speed and ISO in M mode?

Question

Can someone explain how to set the shutter speed and ISO in M(manual) mode in a canon EOS 1100D.?

Answer

Shutter speed - "dial" button (cog wheel-check manual page 18 for position if not sure) just next to shutter(manual page 97)

ISO speed - press up arrow and navigate either with arrows to sides or with "dial" (manual page 77)

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Why are the black parts of my photos flashing?

Question

Recently I have borrowed my friend's SLR.

I don't know what settings I have changed.

When reviewing a photo, the black parts of the photo are highlighted (flashing) black/white every second.

The manufacturer of the camera is Olympus.

What is going on? How do I fix it?

Answer

You're in the mode of the camera where it shows you the over (or possibly under) exposed parts of your images. Its a useful mode, but if you'd like to exit, click the up or down arrow while you see that image to cycle through the viewing modes.

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Why would I use manual camera controls instead of the automatic modes?

Question

I'm very new to digital photography, so I still haven't gotten the hang of all this exposure and ISO stuff, etc. I have a Canon EOS T3.

My question is how big of a difference does it make using manual settings rather than auto settings for everything? I've taken some pretty nice photos with all auto settings, and I'm not sure if it could have turned out any better using manual settings. I know that there are some people who have been in the game for years upon years, and to them they can notice the difference between photos taken with manual vs auto settings, but for my situation, do you think it really makes a difference? Is my camera smart enough to determine the best settings for me?

Also, lets say manual settings are better (which I'm sure they are, since they give you greater control). How often are you supposed to adjust your settings? Between every shot, considering they are unique shots? Or does it not matter about the object, but rather the lighting environment? So if I'm in a forest at 2:00 PM on a sunny bright day and I take photos for one hour, should I be constantly adjusting my settings between every unique shot to get the best out of it? Or do I usually just find one setting that works for the environment I'm in?

Answer

Applying manual controls allows one more freedom to enhance, manipulate and master applied photographic applications. By understanding the interaction of shutter speed, aperture, and ISO speed, photography — identified as "drawing with light" — can be utilized to its fullest potential.

Full creativity with the use of manual control can then be used to make those "How did they do that?" photos.

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How do I change the exposure setting in manual mode on a Canon EOS 550D?

Question

I have recently bought a Canon EOS 550D. In the Manual Mode, I am unable to change the exposure level. What am I missing here? I am sure there must be a way to change it.

Answer

Based on experience, I am certain you are confusing exposure and exposure-compensation.

Exposure is a product of 3 parameters: ISO, shutter-speed, aperture. In Manual mode, you control all of these and doing so sets the exposure. @jrista shows very clearly how to control each of them. For how they relate, see What is the exposure triangle?.

Exposure-compensation (EC), marked on most cameras including yours by a ± sign, is an offset from the exposure the camera is computing in automatic (P, Auto) and semi automatic mode (S, A). In all these modes, the camera computes an exposure (based on the metering mode) and EC is how you tell the camera to adjust the computed value by a certain amount.

In other words:

• In all modes except manual: The camera computes an exposure and you use EC to tell it to make things brighter or darker relative to its guess.
• In manual mode: You set the exposure exactly using Aperture, Shutter-Speed and ISO. There is no offset the camera can apply because all the parameters have been fixed by you.

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