Showing posts with label shooting-technique. Show all posts
Showing posts with label shooting-technique. Show all posts

Monday, May 14, 2012

How can I make short people look taller in photographs?

Question

I was browsing some great shots from Herb Ritts and came across this photo (NSFW). It seems like the legs of the woman appear longer in relation to her body. Is this an effect of the lens used?

Since many of the women I photograph are short it would be great if I was able to mimic this effect to make them look taller. The image is especially curious to me because the woman subjects I shoot all happen to have short legs, so the 'lengthening' effect in the photo would be very welcome by them.

Anyone got tips or ideas for this?

EDIT: About using wider angle lenses... How wide would I need to go with an APC sensor? Does lighting play a role at all?

Asked by kacalapy

Answer

Use a wide angle lens and position yourself low down, as others have stated:

Giant legs on even the shortest subject guaranteed! This was shot with a 10mm, the effect is more subtle at longer focal lengths.

Wide angle lenses accentuate perspective, they increase the distance in size between near and far objects. By getting low you are making the subjects legs the closest thing to the camera, thus they appear disproportionally larger.

This is the same reason you should use a longer lens for regular portraits, a wide angle will make the closest parts of the face (nose, chin, forehead) seem larger which is not very flattering! Taking this advice to the extreme is why you see fashion photogs using 300mm lenses and directing their models using walkie-talkies!

Answered by Matt Grum

How to Avoid Red-Eye in Photos?

Question

Although tools exist to remove red-eye in post-production, what's the best way to avoid it while creating the photograph in the field?

Asked by ahockley

Answer

To understand how to prevent red-eye you need to understand what causes it.

Red eye is caused by light from a flash that is close to the lens entering the subjects pupils and bouncing off the rear of the eye back into the lens. (The main cause for the red colour is the blood in the back of the retina). Wikipedia has more info.

To prevent red-eye you need to prevent this light bounce back. There are several ways to achieve this.

  1. Pre-flash. By flashing a bright light prior to taking the main photo. This causes the subjects pupils to narrow and reduces the amount of red eye. Many modern compacts have red eye reduction modes that do this by flashing multiple times before the main flash, or providing a continuous bright light in place of a quick flash.

  2. Use and angled flash to direct the light to bounce of a wall or ceiling to prevent the direct bounce back.

  3. Use a flash that is separate from the camera so the light bouncing back does not bounce directly back down the axis of the lens.

prevention of redeye

If you have a compact camera it is likely your only option is number 1. With an SLR you have more choices.

Answered by Simon P Stevens

Sunday, May 13, 2012

How did film photographers overcome constant ISO/ASA values in low light situations?

Question

Today in Digital SLR era, when I find myself in low light situation in a place that I can't use my tripod or I don't have it, and still don't want to get blurry images, I use the widest aperture which may not be enough, so I raise my ISO.

I'm curious what did film photographers do with their fixed ISO/ASA per film roll? Specially if they are using a low ISO film like 50 or 100.

Asked by Akram Mellice

Answer

There were several techniques:

  • Carry extra film backs (MF) or camera bodies (35mm) with different film loaded
  • Push process lower ISO film to sacrifice fine grain in favor of perceived higher ISO
  • Rewind the film already in the camera until just the leader is outside the canister, noting what frame you are on, then load a different roll. You can then reload the original roll and expose black frames until you are on the "next" frame
  • Use a flash
  • Use a tripod for more shots

I've been in many situations where simply walking from a more open area in a city to a denser part where the buildings created shadows made 2 or more stops difference. Carrying multiple bodies or push processing were my technique of choice. Push processing is an all-or nothing thing, so you either push the whole roll or you don't. Push and pull are for carrying one type of film you feel covers the most general case and then adjusting ISO for specific cases outside those boundaries. Carrying a separate body is great because you can switch back and forth quickly. It's not all or nothing, and you don't have to take the time to rewind film, etc.

ISO 50 film, in particular, is dicey because photographers chose it for (among other things) its grain structure. Pushing something like Velvia gives it a different character -- somewhat grainier and even more contrasty. Probably not the effect intended when the film was loaded. Even more so with the slow B&W films like Pan-X.

Answered by Steve Ross

Thursday, May 3, 2012

Where is it best to meter for sunrise and sunsets?

Question

I can never get nice silhouettes and appropriate exposures for sunrise and sunset. How should I meter for this?

Asked by Noel M

Answer

Its near impossible to balance the foreground and the horizon/ambient when shooting into the sun without lighting modifiers, so you have to pick a target.

If your target is to expose the sunset correctly, then expose for the sky - a non-white, non sun patch close to your composition, and recompose using those settings.

If your target is to expose the foreground correctly, well, thats easy, expose the foreground as normal :)

If your target is to create a silhouette in the foreground, then you might try exposing for the sky, taking a test shot, and using your view/histogram controls to ensure you have a large chunk of black in the photo (tall peak on the left side). Alternatively, you could set your exposure points to center point, expose on the foreground silhouette, then close down the shutter until your light meter is buried, -2 or better.

Answered by reuscam

What type of cameras are best for low-maintenance time-lapse videos?

Question

There are a ton of videos on YouTube where people have high-speed time-lapse videos of themselves driving from like NYC to LA. I am not sure what they are using? Because the camera stays on overnight/when the vehicle is off? Also the quality of the images is really good. Do you know how to achieve this? What puzzles me is where do you find a memory card which can store 40-50 hours worth of video without any interru

Asked by antonpug

Answer

My suggestion is a little bit involved, but in my experience in this field of photography is the way to go.

You need:

  1. A net book with a good battery life (get an SSD hard disk so the battery life is further improved) (mine lasts for 7 hours) you could get even more if you setup the power options and disable the screen
  2. A HD web cam
  3. A copy of http://www.nimisis.com/projects/flix.php
  4. A DC to AC car charger (charge in the day when the car is running)
  5. Plan the trip - if you want to get through the night and into the morning and sun rise - you need to drive into the night and then wake up before the power on the net book goes and drive through the sun rise
  6. Some sort camouflage to hide the cam and net book when the car is unattended (don't over heat the net book)

I know that’s a lot of kit for a time lapse but its all reusable and solves several of your problems

  • Space - not an issue with a hard drive really
  • Battery life - a laptop battery life far out guns a camera

This is one of the best guides on the net for time lapses.

If your interested What settings should I use for a timelapse of my wedding? is a time lapse I did of my wedding which was well over 15 hours of coverage

Good luck!

Answered by Rob

Wednesday, May 2, 2012

What are some techniques for hand-held image stabilization?

Question

My zoom lens (75-300mm) is fairly slow: 5.6 at its farthest point. (I think it's 3.5-5.6, and it's not image stabilizing. I'm on a budget, sadly!) Unfortunately, my primary use for it is hand-held shots: sporting events, etc., where a tripod or even monopod isn't viable.

Add to the mix that I have shaky hands, and because what I'm usually shooting with it is in motion, I'm using the AI Servo auto-focus motor.

What are some techniques I can use to improve the quality (specifically sharpness and focus) of shots I take with this lens, when hand-held? (More generally, what are some techniques all of us can use to improve image quality and sharpness when shooting hand-held?)

If it helps any, I'm using a Canon XTi body.

Asked by John Rudy

Answer

  1. Increase your ISO as far as you can go without losing too much quality (to get a shutter speed as close as possible to the 1/focal length rule).
  2. Practice and use a stable shooting position like one of these to help steady the camera: http://blog.muddyboots.org/2009/04/avoiding-blur-due-to-camera-shake.html
  3. Slowly and smoothly press the shutter button, don't jab it. Most people move the camera more than they realize when pressing the button -it helps to practice this beforehand as well.
  4. Breathe out slowly while you take the photo (don't hold your breath).
  5. Try putting your camera in burst mode. If you jab the shutter button, you'll find that when you use burst and hold the shutter down, the 2nd or 3rd shot will come out sharper than your 1st one.
Answered by Erica Marshall

Tuesday, May 1, 2012

What is ETTR (Expose To The Right)?

Question

Picking up from this answer and this question, What exactly is ETTR? How it may reduce the image noise? And how is it difference from film to digital sensors?

In the answer linked above, what are the 5 stops and is it related to ETTR?

In real life how can I apply this technique when I'm shooting?

Asked by Akram Mellice

Answer

"Expose to the right" means record the brightest image you can and then reduce the brightness in post to achieve the desired level.

The word "right" comes from the histogram, where conventionally brightness increases left to right, thus increasing brightness shifts the whole histogram to the right.

ETTR helps reduce noise simply by capturing more light, which reduces photon noise, and gives a better signal to [electrical] noise ratio (by virtue of a bigger signal). The reason high ISO photos look noisy is due to low levels of light and amplifying a weak signal.

The technique works provided you don't increase the exposure to the point where it hits the maximum possible value and gets cut off, as this will result in a loss of information (known as clipping/blowing the highlights). Typically this is seen as an area of the image (usually sky) which has gone pure white.

In principle the technique works for film, certainly exposing the left and then having to push your image when printing will increase grain. However film has a different cutoff characteristic, as highlights gently roll off rather than hitting a hard limit.

Here's an experiment I did to demonstrate the effect (and rebuff a blog article which claimed ETTR didn't work):

Here's the camera metered exposure:

Here I've used ETTR and increased the camera meter's exposure by 1 stop using a longer exposure:

Finally, to show the difference here's the standard exposure with the ETTR image offset in the centre:

The reduction in noise is visible, particularly in the purple patch in the bottom right.

Answered by Matt Grum

Saturday, April 7, 2012

How to make a landscape photo like Stanislav Perov?

Question

I am a beginner in photography. Could some one explain how to make this photo?

There are some things that I would like to know:

  • what camera, lens(es) (eg shall I do it on crop camera, wide angle lens)?
  • what camera setting shall I set?
  • what filter (gradient, NDx, PL) shall I use?
  • how to save camera from the sun light (if it might be)
  • finally what Photoshop manipulations shall I do
  • any other actions, conditions what I forgot and/or don't know.
Asked by garik

Answer

The differences in camera formats won't show up in an image that size on the web. If you want to print large then you need to be careful about lens selection and use the largest format available to you.

That image is almost certainly multiple exposures tonemapped / enfused into a single picture, I.e it is what's called an HDR image. No amount of graduated filters is going to let you expose for some backlit corn and not totally blow out he sun / sky. A polarizer might help but is by no means required.

Aside from the processing there are no magic camera settings for this or any other image, just what's required for the scene. A fairly wide lens was used, with the aperture stopped down to increase depth of field. As the foreground is really close to the camera focusing could be critical, however if I were shooting multiple exposures I would just focus stack at the same time.

Finally shooting into the sun with a wide lens won't damage your camera, just be careful of your eyes!

Answered by Matt Grum

Wednesday, January 18, 2012

How can I achieve this effect, where the flower is sharp and everything else is blurry?

Question

I was wondering how it is possible to take a picture like this.

Please have a look here for some example pictures. The flower is sharp, and everything else looks like taken with a long shutter.

Is that even possible, or do you think it's Photoshop-edited?

I asked the photographer about the lens, and it's a Minolta RF Rokkor 250mm f5.6.

Answer

Looks like it's been shot with a wide aperture (low f number, like f/2.8), from a close distance, with a camera that has a large sensor -- the combined effect is a shallow depth of field, as demonstrated there.

To reproduce, put your camera in aperture priority mode (Av on a lot of cameras) and choose a wide aperture (head for f/2.8 rather than f/22) and get shooting.

Tuesday, January 10, 2012

Is getting the starburst sun shine like this photo is in post processing or at capturing?

Question

I cant believe that the following photograph is without any post processing?

enter image description here

Is that starburst sun shine in the photograph is an outcome of post processing or it is the result of a trick at capture time??

if so how to get an image like that?

Answer

It can be done in post-processing, of course, but that's the result of shooting a bright light source using a very small aperture (high f-number) and having a 9-bladed iris in the lens.

Different iris shapes will show different "star" patterns. This one has 18 points, which means it came from either a 9-bladed or 18-bladed iris, and since nobody makes lenses with an 18-bladed aperture iris at the moment, it must be a 9-bladed iris. You can practice creating the effect by shooting a small light bulb or candle flame against a dark background to find out which of your lenses gives the best effect and how to control the star pattern with your aperture setting.

Saturday, January 7, 2012

Shooting old buildings using an 18-55 and 75-300 lenses (Canon)

Question

Photography is one of my hobbies but due to the costs associated with it, I do not have/own the best of gear.

I have a 6 MP Canon DSLR with an 18-55 II lens and a 75-300 III f4/5.6 lens. I also own a wired release button and non-high quality tripod.

For my full time job, I travel a lot through the rural country and often more than not I come across older bridges, homes, or buildings (100-300 year range). These houses usually have character and charm.

Given my equipment, how can I maximize my photo taking experience (composition, settings, my location from the building, sun, snow, etc)?

As a note, my budget for new gear is about $100

Answer

Consider software not hardware

You can't really purchase any additional hardware within this price range that will maximize your experience other than the excellent and inexpensive 50mm f1.8 prime lens that can be picked up for around $100 or less used. You could use that for some detail shots with a background bokeh, etc. The CPL filter was also mentioned in the comments above and since you have a tripod and a shutter release you might also want to consider a neutral density filter.

However, given the listed equipment I would encourage you to use try using your tripod, shutter release and the 18-55mm lens to do some HDR shots. Old buildings against dramatic skies (which HDR will further enhance) look particularly interesting. To do this you might need to invest into some software such as the NIK HDR Effex Pro or similar to process the exposures into an HDR image. There is all sorts of software and plugin filters for various image processing applications that will allow you to be creative with your photos. I already mentioned NIK and I admit I enjoy using their plugins so I would also recommended the Color Effex Pro or the Silver Effex Pro for Black and white images. The plugins are more then your budget but still reasonable and they will surely make a bigger impact on your images then any $100 piece of hardware.

Thursday, December 22, 2011

What and how to crop?

Question

When I take a photo of something like a building, I tend to shoot the whole building cause later I want to get the feeling and impression I had when I took this photo, I want to transfer these feelings to people. But usually this doesn't happen and I go home with really disappointing shots, and when I show photos to friends and family they don't see what I saw cause the angle of shooting may be weird cause I'm forcing myself to shoot the whole subject. It's really frustrating. Obviously I need to crop the subject I'm shooting but cropping sometimes may make things worse. I wonder when to crop a subject? and still deliver the context I shot this subject in. Also where to do the cropping? especially for portraits, landscape and architecture.

I know that I should crop people from the joints (arms and knees)

Answer

Cropping in General

First off, some words about cropping in general. Fundamentally, cropping is not any different than composing in camera. The same general guidelines apply, and the same outcomes can be achieved with cropping as with composing in-camera. An important symmetry that might not be quite so obvious to a beginner.

As with any composition, there are the standard "rules" (better called guideslines, as they are not exact, and need not always be followed) that apply...rule of thirds, the golden ratio, converging diagonals, etc. Apply the same goals and thought processes to cropping that you would to composing in camera.

Assuming you include in the frame the subject you wish to crop to, at the right angle, you should always be able to achieve with cropping what you can achieve in camera. That puts some importance on ensuring your subject is fully in-frame in the camera, and that they are indeed captured with the appropriate perspective, so you CAN crop the way you want to.

Composing in-camera vs. with crop?

In most cases, I think one can always compose in-camera, rather than with crop, except when you simply don't have the right focal reach to frame your subject the way you need to. If you are unsure of what composition will really capture your subject best, you can always compose a variety of ways in camera and take multiple shots. Storage space is extremely cheap, and sifting through already properly composed pictures to find the best is often a lot easier than trying to compose with cropping after the fact. You also maintain full resolution of your photos, which is always helpful.

When it comes to conveying feeling, you might be able to achieve that with cropping, however I would expect it to be difficult in most cases. Emotion is something that occurs in the moment, and it is often difficult to fully replicate what you may have felt on-scene later on when trying to recreate the feeling while post processing. You no longer have the same state of mind, you are no longer standing there seeing and feeling the same, so at best you can only convey a remembrance. Learning to compose in camera, and composing in multiple ways in-camera, might be the best way you can capture the feeling of a photograph the way you want to.

Sometimes, composition is simply knowing about the options and possibilities. To that end, I hope the following explanations and the accompanying links to sample shots can help provide food for thought:

Composing Landscapes

There are a variety of ways to compose landscapes. The most common are the ultra wide and wide angle shots, however they are not the only valid way to compose a landscape photograph. Telephoto focal lengths can also be extremely useful for landscapes, and often offer the opportunity to "reach" beyond an unsightly foreground to compose a stunning landscape shot beyond.

Composition of a landscape depends on the scope of the shot. With wide angle shots, the subject is usually fairly broad, encompassing a whole mountain or mountain range, an expansive sky, and possibly a mid-foreground subject like a lake. Ultra-wide angle shots are similar to wide angle shots, however they offer the additional opportunity to get extremely close to key foreground subjects, such as trees, various flora and boulders, the shore of a lake, logs and other deadfall, etc. This is called the near/far relationship, and some of my all-time favorite landscape shots have superb near/far sense.

There is also the "mathematics of subtraction", a concept referenced by photographer Andy Mumford in an excellent article on composition that I have found invaluable in a lot of my landscape work. Both ultra-wide angle lenses as well as telephoto lenses can help you narrow the field of view, simplify a landscape, and focus on shape, form, and tone...aspects that often convey emotion. Zeroing in on these aspects is often easier with a telephoto lens. Capturing both wide-angle shots as well as telephoto shots is often a useful in that it provides complementary but independent photographs. Such complements can be printed together, framed and hung on a wall in an additional composition.

When it comes to cropping landscapes, its certainly possible, however it is important to ask yourself what you might gain. Ultra-wide angle lenses capture scenes with great breadth and depth, and can often offer room for cropping down, however you lose the benefit that an ultra-wide lens offers: foreground proximity. With telephoto lenses, the entire point is to zero in on a smaller aspect of a larger landscape, and composing in camera can be very important to capturing the right perspective.

Composing Architecture

Architecture is an interesting beast. Its one of my favorite types of photography, and I explore a lot of it, however I have not tried my luck at capturing it much myself yet. More so than with landscapes, architecture is very much about perspective. Capturing a building, the breadth of a while city, or say just a bridge, staircase or alleyway, is about portraying the sense of size or depth.

Buildings are both easy and difficult to capture. In one sense, they exude perspective, and capturing it is rather strait forward. On the other hand, people see buildings all the time, and capturing them in such that they exude intrigue as well is often about positioning and contrast. Pointing a camera strait at the side of a building is ok, but there are more interesting perspectives. At an angle, strait up from street level, in composition with several other buildings, with thin DOF down a metropolitan avenue, etc. Sometimes gaining a little elevation can help.

Cityscapes are similar to landscapes, and often the same rules apply. A foreground of water is always a useful tool, and can help convey some of the sense of awe (feeling) at seeing a large metropolitan center from a slight distance. The near/far relationship that applies to landscapes also apply here...a bridge stretching across a river to a metropolitan center that expands across the rest of the shot is often an intriguing composition.

Also like landscapes, architecture can benefit from the mathematics of subtraction. Capturing one aspect of architecture can produce intriguing yet very simplistic shots. One of my favorite subjects are stairwells, escalators, etc. It may seem ironic, however these simple subjects in total isolation provide a lot of opportunity. Old stairwells that spiral up or down, full of a variety of colors or tones, can be quite amazing. Bridges arching overhead or out into the distance provide some of the same simplistic allure.

Composing Portraits

In all honesty, I don't know a whole lot about composing portraits. People are infinitely complex, and there are probably an infinite number of ways one can capture the endless expanse of form, color, emotion, etc. that humanity exudes. I think the mathematics of subtraction are critical to portraiture from a compositional standpoint. I think light and perspective also play a critical role. Beyond that, hopefully someone else who has more experience with portraits can offer much better insight than I can.

Wednesday, December 14, 2011

How can I maintain camera stability without a tripod?

Question

I was shooting some photos last night and I was having trouble not blurring the images. The issue I know comes from me shaking while the shutter is open. A tripod would have been the perfect fix but I did not have a tripod on me at the time.

Are there any techniques, tips, or tricks that I can try to help maintain stability when shooting in low-light conditions without a tripod?

(This question applies to both point-and-shoot and DSLR cameras.)

Answer

Some "tricks"

  • Ninja breathing, as above. Learn to hold breath at critical moment.

  • Body braced in as stable a position as you can get it. "Think like a rock" :-) ie elbows in against body, head pulled down against body, "hunched" posture feet placed consciously firmly and maybe slightly spread.

  • Brace against something !!! - Lamp post railing, corner of building, nearest person (introduce yourself first). Maybe crouch with knee on ground.

    • Place camera on or against something and attempt to lock it rigidly - pull down against surface so it doesn't move. You may need to place arock, pen, stick under part of base to allow you to lock it in right orientation. This is more for the "10 second Hong Kong skyline at night with no tripod shots" than slow shutter.
  • Use the 2 second timer if present. When bracing etc the action of moving your hand to press the shutter button can either result in post shot tremor with shutter open or painfully locked with finger in mid air. and less stability than you would have had. A 2 second shutter delay lets you push the button and then concentrate on turning you and the camera into a rock for 2 seconds.

  • String/cord/rope under boot and pull up to get taut cord.
    Cord from 2 points even better.
    Cord from 3 points and pulled to tension approaches a tripod in stability.

  • Monopod.

Friday, September 23, 2011

How to focus manually on the eyes, for a self portrait without a remote?

Question

Any out of box idea to manually focus on the eyes, for a self portrait? I do have a tripod and the camera has a timer too.

Camera: Canon Powershot SX210 IS

Answer

This is a bit tedious to set up, but it should work:

  1. Put the camera on a tripod.
  2. Place a stool or chair or a broom or really almost anything where you will want to be in the photo.
  3. Focus the camera on that object.
  4. After you have focused, switch the camera to manual focus so that it won't change where it's focused.
  5. Set the camera to use a self-timer. You'll probably want at least 10 seconds.
  6. If you're comfortable with manual exposure settings, use the smallest aperture (larger f-numbers like f/5.6 or f/8) that you can get away with. This will put more in focus which will give you a greater margin of error. (It also helps that your compact camera will have a larger depth of field compared to, say, a DSLR). Using a flash will let you use a smaller aperture also.
  7. Remove the object that you focused on, but mark on the floor where it was. The idea is that you've focused the camera at a certain distance, and you're going to place yourself there.
  8. Trip the shutter release.
  9. Quickly get in position, standing on the mark.
  10. Smile!

Tuesday, August 23, 2011

How do I keep the horizon straight when taking a photo (without a tripod)?

Question

I use a DSLR and I very often find that when I shoot without a tripod, and with my eye to the viewfinder (as opposed to using LiveView), my photos end up slightly crooked: lines that should be horizontal or vertical are slightly slanted.

Obviously I can fix this very easily in post-processing, but it would be nicer to get it right in camera. I always try to use the viewfinder's focusing points to straighten my composition (by lining them up with a horizontal or vertical element in the scene) but still, the photos so often end up crooked!

Are there any good tips for getting better at this? Is it a posture thing? Do (some) people tend to lean slightly as they press the shutter button? I'm constantly amazed at my inability to do such a simple thing right. Help!

Answer

I've not got my technique down perfectly yet, but one thing I noticed was my horizons leaning to the right and it was down to me pressing on the shutter too hard and just pushing it down. There's a lot of information on how to beat it but the best I found was slowing my breathing down and very slowly squeezing it instead.

One of the other interesting ones was to make a low tech monopod with some string and a nut-bolt combo on the tripod mount, you drop the string and stand on it and the tension keeps the camera a bit more solid.

Thursday, August 4, 2011

How can I achieve this effect, where the flower is sharp and everything else is blurry?

Question

I was wondering how's possible to take a picture like this.

The flower is sharp, and everything else looks like taken with a long shutter.

Is that even possible, or do you think it's Photoshop-edited?

(source: https://picasaweb.google.com/ypk82004)

The Image in Question 1 The Image in Question 2

Answer

Looks like it's been shot with a wide aperture (low f number, like f/2.8), from a close distance, with a camera that has a large sensor -- the combined effect is a shallow depth of field, as demonstrated there.

To reproduce, put your camera in aperture priority mode (Av on a lot of cameras) and choose a wide aperture (head for f/2.8 rather than f/22) and get shooting.