Showing posts with label crop-factor. Show all posts
Showing posts with label crop-factor. Show all posts

Wednesday, May 9, 2012

Crop Sensor Enhances Zoom? [closed]

Question

Possible Duplicate:
What is the difference between focal length and crop factor?
Does my crop sensor camera actually turn my lenses into a longer focal length?

I keep reading about how crop-sensors enhance the zoom of an image.

Example: A 50mm lens is effectively a 70mm lens.

What causes this to happen and how do you get the ratio to know what your lens is? In other words, How do you get 50mm=70mm?

Asked by Lynda

Answer

Crop sensors are smaller than full frame sensor. The full frame sensor size came from the old days and has been used as a standard for digital sensors size.

From Wikipedia

Crop factor is related to the ratio of the dimensions of a camera's imaging area compared to a reference format; most often, this term is applied to digital cameras, relative to 35 mm film format as a reference. In the case of digital cameras, the imaging device would be a digital sensor. The most commonly used definition of crop factor is the ratio of a 35 mm frame's diagonal (43.3 mm) to the diagonal of the image sensor in question; that is, CF=diag35mm / diagsensor. Given the same 3:2 aspect ratio as 35mm's 36mm x 24mm area, this is equivalent to the ratio of heights or ratio of widths; the ratio of sensor areas is the square of the crop factor.

So to determine your crop factor, you need to know your DSLR sensor size. It's 1.5 for Nikon, 1.6 for Canon, 2.0 for Olympus, 1.5 for Pentax and 1.5 for Sony.

To calculate the effective focal length or the focal length multiplier, use this formula:

focal length multiplier = focal length x crop factor.

For example, let's say that your crop factor is 1.5 and your lens's focal length is 50mm, then the focal length multiplier = 1.5 x 50 = 75mm.

Now you have to bare this in your mind, the physical focal length of your lens didn't change at all. What you see in your photo is the effect of your crop sensor, let me explain more:

Look at the image below, the red rectangle is for the full frame sensors, now if you are using a lens on a full frame camera and used 50mm lens to get this picture below, the photo will be everything inside the red rectangle. If you replaced your lens with a 75mm lens you will get a photo with everything inside the blue rectangle. Which is the same if you mount your 50mm lens on a cropped sensor camera with crop factor = 1.5

Crop Factor doesn't enhance the zoom, it just gives you the field of view that you would see if you zoomed more.

The image below is from this Wikipedia article.

crop-factor

Answered by Akram Mellice

Saturday, April 28, 2012

Does the shutter speed and focal length rule of thumb apply to cropped sensor cameras?

Question

So, the rule of thumb for shutter speed is that it shouldn't be less than 1 / focal length. Well, that's straight forward on full frame cameras, but what about cropped sensor cameras? Is it going to be 1 / equivalent focal length? By equivalent focal length, I mean original focal length × crop factor.

My guess is: no, it's just 1 / focal length, cause the lens's focal length didn't physically change.

Asked by Akram Mellice

Answer

According to this Wikipedia article on the secondary effects of crop sensors:

The old rule of thumb that shutter speed should be at least equal to focal length for hand-holding will work equivalently if the actual focal length is multiplied by the FLM [focal length multiplier] first before applying the rule.

So, yes, use the 35mm equivalent focal length as your reference for minimum shutter speed.

Answered by John Rygielski

Sunday, April 22, 2012

What does “angle of view equivalent to that of some lens in 35mm format” mean?

Question

Does "angle of view equivalent to that of 22.5-585 mm lens in 35mm [135] format" for a digital camera mean that the lens is equivalent to a 22.5-585 mm lens for a DSLR camera?

Asked by Jack

Answer

The answers at What is "angle of view" in photography? should help. In short, the "equivalent" gives you a way to compare the angle of view of these lenses, by putting them all in the terms of a common format.

The format usually used as the standard is that of normal 35mm film — called "135" because that's the standard film cartridge format of that size. This format is also used by "full-frame" DSLRs. However, that's (currently and for the forseeable future) the realm of high-end cameras, usually well above $2000 for the body with no lens. Most DSLRs use a smaller format called "APS-C", which is about half the area. There's actually a number of slightly different sizes that go by this name.

For these smaller formats, you can get the "equivalent" field of view by multiplying by the "crop factor". For Sony, Nikon, and Pentax, the value is 1.5x. For Canon, it's 1.6x.

To put that in concrete terms, with the Nikon D5000, a 15-390mm lens would have that same 22.5-585 equivalent angle of view as your example. (Because 15 x 1.5 = 22.5, and 390 x 1.5 = 585.)

The lenses in compact cameras are often specified only in terms of their equivalents, because a) bigger numbers are more impressive and b) there's a dizzying array of sensor sizes in compact cameras, so using some standard makes sense. A typical sensor size is called 1/2.3", and that has a crop factor of about 5.6 — so a compact camera advertising a 22.5-585mm lens may really have a 4-105mm lens.

But don't be too swayed by the impressiveness of that gigantic zoom range. It comes at a cost — one of course being that it's easier to do with the smaller sensor coverage, and those pinky-finger-nail-sized sensors are at a disadvantage, especially in low light. But that's not all, and the lens will certainly also have significant compromises in sharpness, chromatic aberration, distortion, bokeh, and every other aspect of image quality. It still may be very capable of good results, but you should be aware of where the gear you are using makes compromises. See What does 'how much zoom' mean? for more on this.

Finally, remember that zooming is functionally equivalent to cropping — that's why the term is "crop factor" and why this equivalence works out in the first place. That means that if you have an image shot at a "300mm equivalent" focal length (for example, with a 200mm lens on a typical DSLR), and you take 25% off each edge, the resulting cropped image has a field of view like a 600mm lens. Because of the larger sensor and potentially better lens, this cropped image probably will look even better than the "full" image from the point-and-shoot with the 585mm-equivalent lens. (A decade ago, pixelation might have been a concern, but now even entry-level DSLRs have more megapixels than needed for reasonably-sized prints even after such a crop.)

Answered by mattdm

Monday, February 20, 2012

Are film lenses effectively longer focal lengths on cropped-sensor DSLRs?

Question

My wife has a pair of Tokina lens (28-80mm and 100-300mm, I believe, without the lens here to check) from her old Minolta film SLR that we've been using with Sony DSLRs. I was told that these aren't actually those measurements for a DSLR, but to multiply by 1.5 because of the cropped DSLR sensors. That would mean these two lenses are effectively the same as a 42-120mm and a 150-450mm (!) lens if we bought equivalent Sony DSLR lenses. Is that correct?

It seems too good to be true in the larger lens' case, so I'm looking for the catch.

Asked by dlanod

Answer

That is partly true. You won't actually get a lens with a longer focal length, but you get a lens with the same field of view as a lens with a longer focal length. The actual focal length remains the same, but as you are using a smaller part of the image circle you get a larger magnification, similar to what a longer focal length would give.

This way of multiplying the focal length to get an equivalent focal length is only applied to DSLRs, although the difference in how the field of view corresponds to the focal length has always existed, for example between medium format cameras and small format SLRs. It's only when there was a lot of consumers moving from SLRs to DSLRs that there was a need for an overly simplified way to compare how lenses work on different formats.

Answered by Guffa

Thursday, December 8, 2011

How do I get the 'equivalent' focal length for a DSLR lens for my camera?

Question

On my Nikon D3000, how do I figure the focal length equivalence? In other words, if I want a lens that is just like a 50mm lens on a 35mm film SLR, I need to multiply by a factor. What is the factor, and how is it derived?

Also, when I buy a new lens for it, and the box says 70mm-300mm, I assume that's the true focal length of the camera and not the equivalent, so I have to apply the factor. Is that correct?

Answer

What is the factor, and how is it derived?

The factor (also commonly called a 'crop factor') is a measurement of how much larger a full-frame image sensor is than the sensor in your camera. People say the D3000's crop factor is 1.5 because a full-frame sensor is 1.5x larger than the D3000 sensor.

A full-frame sensor is 36mm x 24 mm. The sensor in the Nikon D3000 is 23.6mm x 15.8mm.

Comparing the sensor sizes along each dimension:

36mm / 23.6mm = 1.52 (approximately)

24mm / 15.8mm = 1.52 (approximately)

You can see how the full-frame sensor is around 1.5x the size of the D3000 sensor, hence the 1.5x crop factor.

Monday, November 14, 2011

Can I use my APS-C kit lens as a reference for choosing between 50mm or 35mm prime lenses?

Question

I'm looking at getting a second lens in addition to my Nikon D7000's kit lens.

I want to know if it's possible to use my 18m-105mm kit lens to get an idea of the focal length for a 35mm lens vs. a 50 mm lens. If I set the kit lens at 35 and 50, will that give me an accurate idea of the magnification and field of view I would get with these two lenses?

I wanted to make sure this was correct, because I know there is a crop factor with a DX camera and I’m not sure if that is taken into effect with the kit lens or not.

So will the 50mm lens, when on my D7000, produce images like when I have my kit lens on the body set to 50mm? And, the same for the 35mm?

Answer

Focal length is focal length, regardless of sensor size or whether the lens is a zoom lens. If you have tried your kit lens at 35mm and 50mm, then the framing will pretty much be the same with prime lenses of those focal lengths. Prime lenses will offer a couple things your zoom lens does not, however.

For one, they should offer better quality, as prime lenses can be constructed to perfectly project the clearest image possible for the given focal length. There are degrees of optical quality within a given prime focal length, as a higher end lens will usually use better materials and lens elements. Generally speaking, though, primes offer better quality.

Second, prime lenses usually provide much wider maximum apertures. A 50mm prime can come in anywhere from f/1.8 through f/1.2, and older manual focus lenses may even be found with maximum apertures as wide as f/0.95. Wider apertures can be more difficult to use at times (due to extremely thin DOF), but they can provide some truly fantastic bokeh.

Regarding focal lengths on a cropped sensor, there is a fairly nice correlation between the 35mm and 50mm lenses and ideal portrait focal lengths on full-frame sensors. Nikon cameras have a 1.5x sensor crop factor. That means that a 35mm lens "behaves as" a 52mm lens on full frame, due to the difference in the field of view captured by the APS-C sensor. The 50mm lens behaves as a 75mm lens on full frame. As an additional lens, 85mm lenses behave like a 134mm lens on full frame. These focal lengths fit pretty well with the ideal portrait focal lengths on full frame cameras, which include 50mm, 85mm, and 135mm.

It should be noted that 50mm lenses on 35mm film/full frame sensor produces a field of view that is very similar to the field of view of the human eye. The actual focal range for that falls between 45mm and 55mm.

So, given all of that...you can make the proper decision based on what you really want to capture. If you want to capture shots that have a relatively "normal" perspective similar to how the human eye sees, you might want to grab the 35mm lens. On a cropped sensor, it would behave like a 52mm lens. If you want a narrower field of view with smoother background blur, a 50mm or 85mm lens would give you that deeper DOF and narrower field, similar to 85mm and 135mm lenses on full frame, respectively. Finally, if you want to capture a wider field of view than the human eye, or want to get really close and capture a lot of perspective, you could get a 24mm lens, which, intriguingly, behaves like a 36mm lens on full frame.

The beauty of primes is their field of view, or effective focal lengths, are easy to translate between APS-C and Full Frame. If you take the common prime focal lengths of 14mm, 24mm, 35mm, 50mm, 85mm, and 135mm as used on full frame, you can pretty much simply "shift" them up by one place to arrive at the effective focal length ranges on APS-C. The exact focal lengths on APS-C, for reference, are: 21mm, 36mm, 52mm, 75mm, 134mm, 202mm. So long as you understand that about 50mm is the same field of view as "normal" perspective, it is fairly easy to determine which focal length to use to get the field of view/perspective you want in your photographs.

Monday, November 7, 2011

Does my crop sensor camera actually turn my lenses into a longer focal length?

Question

So, I mount a 200mm lens on my Canon 450D. It effectively becomes a 320mm lens. Is this the equivalent of 320mm on a full frame camera? That is, from what I've figured out I get an equivalent field of view but nothing I've read is indicating that I get the magnification to go along with it.

So as my question says in the title, does my crop sensor camera really turn my lens into a longer one (in terms of magnification), or does it just look like it based on the reduced field of view I get?

Answer

The lens does not actually turn into a different focal length, since that's a real, physical property of the optics that can't be changed without more optics. So from that point of view, the answer is a definitive no.

However, when you get to the question of is it effectively the same in terms of magnification, the answer is "pretty much, given some assumptions."

A key assumption is that you're printing at the same size. That means: you're increasing the magnification of the image from the smaller sensor. If you print at sizes different by the same ratio of the crop factor, you get exactly the same result as if you just took a full-frame photo, printed large, and then cropped out the middle.

So, if you print your full-frame picture at 12×9", and print your crop-factor picture at 7.5×5.6" (for Canon; 8×6" for others, or 6×4.5", or whatever), and then chop down the full-frame print to match, they'll be roughly the same.

"Roughly" comes in because, of course, the actual sensors won't be equivalent in image quality. (The crop-factor print may have larger resolution, but from denser photosites, depending on the technology generation used in each camera.)

Blowing up that cropped image — either from the full-frame cropped print, or from the cropped sensor — has two effects which are very like changing the focal length. And these two things are the most visible effects of changing focal length — field of view, as you've noted; and depth of field, which changes exactly as if you'd adjusted the f-stop by the amount of the crop.

If you've ever used a point and shoot camera with "digital zoom", that's what's actually going on. It's cropping the photo and then expanding it. From a practical point of view, zoom is indistinguishable from cropping. But of course, that raises the spectre of decreased image quality — we all know that digital zoom can be awful. The answer is simply that sensor technology is really very good, and amazing, excellent results can be produced at even large print sizes even with a 1.5 or 1.6× crop — but if you do want to go larger with your prints, eventually you need a larger sensor. And, equivalently, if you want to zoom in more, you can do that with more cropping, but eventually, you need actual higher-focal-length glass.

Note that this doesn't address macro shooting. I don't really do any of that, so I'll let someone else handle that aspect of the question — which I think is well-addressed here: Does a camera's crop factor apply to the magnification of macro shots?

Monday, October 17, 2011

Why do my 100mm EF macro lens and my EF-S zoom set at 100mm appear to give a different field of view?

Question

I have a Canon EF 100mm Macro and a Canon EF-S 18-200mm Lens, and using a Canon EOS 60D.

I believed that when setting the Zoom Lens to 100mm it would show the same field of view as the one from Macro.

Turns that I was wrong. Even putting the Zoom Lens to 200mm, the field of view from the Macro Lens is "closer". But why is that?

I tried to google and just read that there should not be any differences between the EF and the EF-S model regarding the crop factor.

Here the two pictures in question (both taken from tripod):

Image 1 - 100mm Macro Lens - Exif <-- It's more zoomed in than Image 2

Image 2 - 200mm Zoom Lens - Exif

Answer

When both set to 100mm, the field of view is the same - the difference comes where the macro lens can focus much closer; which gives much higher magnification ratios of the image on the sensor.

Saturday, September 3, 2011

Is crop-factor a bad thing?

Question

It seems to me that there is a preference for full-frame sensors rather than cropped sensors, and I'm curious as to why. It seems to me, that the cropped sensor means that I get more bang for my buck with zoom lenses. True, I suppose it means I would need to a shorter lens to get the same wide-angle effect on the short end, but it seems like wide-angle lenses are (generally) cheaper than telephoto lenses. Am I missing something?

Answer

No, it is not a bad thing. It is not really "good" or "bad" in any sense. Its simply a different format than full-frame, which is different than medium format, etc. There are pros and cons to each. The smaller APS-C style "cropped" sensors do have some effects on lens focal length due to their field of view, and that can be beneficial or detrimental, depending on how you choose to see it. Here are some facts about sensors:

  1. Cropped Sensor Formats (APS-C)
    • These are smaller sensors
      • They have higher manufacturing "yield" than larger sensors
      • As such, they are generally much cheaper
    • Photosites are generally smaller and more densely packed
      • This generally results in lower signal-to-noise ratio, more noisy pictures
      • This also means the maximum dynamic range (contrast ratio) of cropped senors is lower (less light gathering power per photosite)
    • They have a narrower field of view compared to larger sensors
    • Their narrower FOV has the effect of multiplying the focal length of any lens
      • This may be beneficial if you need super telephoto lengths (i.e. 400mm on FF ~= 640mm on APS-C, effectively)
      • This may be detrimental if you need ultra wide angle lengths (i.e. 16mm on FF ~= 26mm on APS-C, effectively)
    • The additional "effective magnification" offered by a cropped sensor is only illusory, and is not actual magnification
      • Given a large enough sensor with enough megapixels, and the same exact "crop" provided by a cropped senor can be achieved with a full-frame or medium format (however, the larger sensor would need some SERIOUS megapixels to achieve this.)
        • The 1.6x crop sensor of a Canon 450D would require a full-Frame sensor with 31mp to achieve the same crop
        • The 1.6x crop sensor of a Canon 550D would require a full-frame sensor with 46mp to achieve the same crop
  2. Full-Frame Sensor Formats
    • These sensors provide the same "usable" pixel area as 35mm film
    • These sensors are larger, and have lower manufacturing yield
      • This generally means they are more expensive
    • The photosites are larger and often less densely packed
      • This results in better signal-to-noise ratio, less noisy pictures
      • Dynamic range is generally higher with larger photosites.
        • (The new Canon 1Ds IV with a 30mp+ sensor is touted as having full 16bit RAW capability, which offers much greater dynamic range than the general 12bit RAW of cropped sensors)
    • Their field of view is "normal" from the perspective of the bulk of the photography community and equipment
    • A lenses focal length is as stated when used on a full frame
  3. Medium Format Sensors
    • These sensors are often much larger than full-frame (up to 57mm or larger)
      • They have extremely low yield, and thus their cost is extremely high
    • They have high density, but large photosites
      • This results in some of the best dynamic range possible in a digital sensor
      • Leica and Hasselblad's latest medium-format sensors tout 24bit RAW
    • They may have a much wider field of view than normal 35mm for a given focal length
      • A lens of a normal 35mm focal length would be shorter on medium format, providing even greater field of view
      • As with cropped sensors, the effect is illusory, and only useful when describing things at a technical level

(Note that the effect of sensor size on focal length or the apparent magnification assumes a common lens system. Medium format cameras tend to be rather specialized, so a direct comparison here is likely impossible. For the sake of discussion, the effect given similar lens system and focal lengths would thread throughout the range of sensor sizes.)

What are the different sensor sizes used in DSLRs?

Question

What do the different sensor size names used by Canon mean? There's APS-C, APS-H and full format? What are the standards used by Nikon, Pentax, Sony, Olympus, Panasonic, and others?

What are the effects of these different sensor sizes (and the corresponding "crop factor") on lenses?

Answer

These are the different sensor sizes:

  • Full frame sensor (Nikon's FX, Canon does not use special term): 36 x 24mm, no crop (actual size might differ slightly between brands and cameras)
  • Canon's APS-H: 27.9 x 18.6mm, crop factor 1.3
  • Canon's APS-C: 22.3 x 14.9mm, crop factor 1.6
  • Nikon's DX: 23.6 x 15.8mm, crop factor 1.5 (23.1 x 15.4mm, crop factor 1.55 for Nikon 3100)

The effects of crop factor to the lenses is that the smaller sizes lessen the angle of view, but as the focal length is universally adapted to represent the field of view, you can multiply the focal lengths by the crop factor to get the indication for angle of view.

In example if you take 18-55mm zoom, it's effective angle of view on APS-C is equivalent to 18x1.6-55x1.6 ~ 28-90mm lens on a fullframe camera.

You might find this discussion about focal lengths and their equivalents useful.

When shopping for lenses, one should keep in mind that when you have camera with cropped sensor, both fullframe (Canon's EF, Nikon's lenses without DX marking) and cropped sensor (Canon's EF-S, Nikon's DX) lenses are usable on your camera, but lenses made for cameras with cropped sensor are not usable on fullframe cameras.

Tuesday, August 16, 2011

What is angle-of-view in photography?

Question

I read on a site:

Focal-length determines the angle-of-view seen through a lens for a given sensor-size. With a full-frame sensor a lens gives the same angle-of-view as it would on a 35mm film camera. With a smaller sensor, the angle-of-view becomes smaller. The crop-factor, also called FLM (Focal-Length Multipler), is the ratio representing the difference. Say a lens gives a 90° angle-of-view on a full-frame DSLR such as the Nikon D700 Nikon D700, then the same lens would give an angle of view of 60° on a D7000 Nikon D7000 because its FLM is 1.5X.

Short focal-lengths show a greater angle-of-view compared to longer ones. Lens focal-lengths fall into broad categories according to the angle-of-view they give depending on the camera's sensor size. There are no official numbers, the table below shows the ranges used here and typical uses.

(from the Lens Buying Guide @ neocamera.)

In layman's terms, what is angle-of-view? Is it the same as focal length? If not, how is it different? How is it used? Why do I need to know about it?

Answer

In layman's terms (assuming a layman who knows some very basic geometry), imagine your nose as the apex of a triangle. The left side of the triangle is the left edge of your peripheral vision, and the right side is the right edge. The horizontal angle of view is simply the angle between those edges. (And the vertical angle of view is the same thing for up and down.)

For a human eye, this happens to be about 95°, but since your eyes move around unconsciously and your brain fills in the details, it feels much wider than that.

The terms field of view and angle of view are basically interchangeable — angle of view is one way of measuring the field of view. (One could also say something like "10 meters at 20 meters away"... this describes different aspects of the same geometry, and with basic trig one can figure out one thing from the other.)

As the text you've quoted says, "Focal-length determines the angle-of-view seen through a lens for a given sensor-size." This is also basic trig, and you can actually plot it out on a piece of paper and measure for yourself. Obviously with a lens this is a three-dimensional problem, but we can just consider the horizontal dimension and reduce it to two. (Imagine this as a top-down cut-away view of the world.)

Draw a line 23.6mm long — the width of the sensor in your D7000 — in the center at the bottom of a blank piece of paper.

From the center of that line, draw a light perpendicular line out from that center dot out towards the middle of the page, so you have an inverted T shape. (This is for convenience. Think of it as "the line towards what you're pointing the camera at".)

Step 1 + Step 2: aps-c sensor with perpendicular guide line

Measure from your sensor along the center line you just drew. Put a dot at 35mm. Label this "35mm lens". This represents the pinhole aperture of an idealized 35mm lens.

Now measure from your sensor along the center line. Put a dot at 50mm. Label this "50mm lens". (And of course this represents the pinhole aperture of an idealized 50mm lens.)

Step 3 + Step 4: dots for lenses

With your straightedge, draw a line from the left edge of your sensor line through the 35mm aperture dot, and continue all the way through and on to the edge of the page. Then do the same thing from the right edge of the sensor line. This should produce a big X shape. Label both lines of the top cone of the X "35mm field of view".

Step 5: APS-C angle of view with a 35mm lens

Do the same thing with the 50mm lens dot. Label this, of course, "50mm field of view".

Step 6: APS-C angle of view with a 50mm lens

Now, you can directly see that a shorter focal length produces a wider field of view. Anything that's within those lines will be in your picture, and everything outside will be out of frame. Note that the lens may project a much wider cone light that doesn't fall on the sensor — the lines you drew ignore that, since light that isn't recorded doesn't really matter.

If you measure the angle, you should see that it's about 36.5° for the 35mm lens, and about 26° for the 50mm lens.

Then, two further experiments:

  • Choose some different focal lengths (15mm, 200mm) and see what those give you.

Step 8: a 15mm lens

Increase the size of the sensor line to 36mm, as in Nikon's "FX" full-frame cameras. Keep the line centered on the same dot, of course. Use your same lens dots but draw new X lines to the larger left and right edge of the sensor. It's immediately apparent that this makes the field of view of the same focal length much wider. Notice that the 35mm on your D7000 gives roughly the field of view of the 50mm on FX — this is why people talk about "equivalent" lenses.

Step 10: Full-frame

You can see that the lines for APS-C 35mm and "Full-Frame" 50mm aren't right on top of each other, as one might expect for an "equivalent". That's because this breaks down a bit at macro distance. If you move back a few millimeters, it'll line up correctly (but change perspective ever so slightly). The lines are roughly parallel, though, so those few millimeters are still just a few millimeters across the room, where they're inconsequential. If you draw this on a really big piece of paper instead of this little on-screen one, that'll become clear. (And of course, they're not exactly parallel, because the lenses don't quite match the crop factor — 32.7777...mm and 50mm would be more exact. Ah, the real world, always getting in the way of explaining things simply.)

This neatly (I hope) answers the question of the relationship between focal length and angle of view / field of view, and also explains the effect of different sensor sizes — and, as a bonus, shows how cropping is interchangeable with zooming (if you don't mind using less of your sensor).


Update: as greg g points out, the math in the quote you've found is wrong. If you do the exercise above, you can clearly see that 1.5× crop factor doesn't turn a 90° field of view into 60°. (And you can see why, which is the beauty of actually sketching out geometric constructions.)

Wednesday, July 13, 2011

What does 'Equivalent to 1.6x the focal length of the lens' mean?

Question

In the specifications of Canon 550D, about the lens the following is mentioned

LENS
Lens Mount      EF/EF-S
Focal Length    Equivalent to 1.6x the focal length of the lens

Now this is really confusing. Why is the focal lenth 1.6 times the focal length of the lens?

I thought the focal length of the lens was the focal length of the lens!

Answer

This is just their ultra confusing way of dealing with a crop factor field of view. It just means that a lens mounted on the 550D will have a field of view equivalent to 1.6 times narrower than the field of view of the same lens on a full frame.

Sunday, July 10, 2011

What is angle-of-view in a DSLR ?

Question

I read on a this site: Lens Buying Guide

Focal-length determines the angle-of-view seen through a lens for a given sensor-size. With a full-frame sensor a lens gives the same angle-of-view as it would on a 35mm film camera. With a smaller sensor, the angle-of-view becomes smaller. The crop-factor, also called FLM (Focal-Length Multipler), is the ratio representing the difference. Say a lens gives a 90° angle-of-view on a full-frame DSLR such as the Nikon D700 Nikon D700, then the same lens would give an angle of view of 60° on a D7000 Nikon D7000 because its FLM is 1.5X.

Short focal-lengths show a greater angle-of-view compared to longer ones. Lens focal-lengths fall into broad categories according to the angle-of-view they give depending on the camera's sensor size. There are no official numbers, the table below shows the ranges used here and typical uses.

In layman's terms, what is angle-of-view? Is it the same as focal length? If not, how is it different? How is it used? Why do I need to know about it?

Answer

In layman's terms (assuming a layman who knows some very basic geometry), imagine your nose as the apex of a triangle. The left side of the triangle is the left edge of your peripheral vision, and the right side is the right edge. The horizontal angle of view is simply the angle between those edges. (And the vertical angle of view is the same thing for up and down.)

For a human eye, this happens to be about 95°, but since your eyes move around unconsciously and your brain fills in the details, it feels much wider than that.

The terms field of view and angle of view are basically interchangeable — angle of view is one way of measuring the field of view. (One could also say something like "10 meters at 20 meters away"... this describes different aspects of the same geometry, and with basic trig one can figure out one thing from the other.)

As the text you've quoted says, "Focal-length determines the angle-of-view seen through a lens for a given sensor-size." This is also basic trig, and you can actually plot it out on a piece of paper and measure for yourself. Obviously with a lens this is a three-dimensional problem, but we can just consider the horizontal dimension and reduce it to two. (Imagine this as a top-down cut-away view of the world.)

Draw a line 23.6mm long — the width of the sensor in your D7000 — in the center at the bottom of a blank piece of paper.

From the center of that line, draw a light perpendicular line out from that center dot out towards the middle of the page, so you have an inverted T shape. (This is for convenience. Think of it as "the line towards what you're pointing the camera at".)

Step 1 + Step 2: aps-c sensor with perpendicular guide line

Measure from your sensor along the center line you just drew. Put a dot at 35mm. Label this "35mm lens". This represents the pinhole aperture of an idealized 35mm lens.

Now measure from your sensor along the center line. Put a dot at 50mm. Label this "50mm lens". (And of course this represents the pinhole aperture of an idealized 50mm lens.)

Step 3 + Step 4: dots for lenses

With your straightedge, draw a line from the left edge of your sensor line through the 35mm aperture dot, and continue all the way through and on to the edge of the page. Then do the same thing from the right edge of the sensor line. This should produce a big X shape. Label both lines of the top cone of the X "35mm field of view".

Step 5: APS-C angle of view with a 35mm lens

Do the same thing with the 50mm lens dot. Label this, of course, "50mm field of view".

Step 6: APS-C angle of view with a 50mm lens

Now, you can directly see that a shorter focal length produces a wider field of view. Anything that's within those lines will be in your picture, and everything outside will be out of frame. Note that the lens may project a much wider cone light that doesn't fall on the sensor — the lines you drew ignore that, since light that isn't recorded doesn't really matter.

If you measure the angle, you should see that it's about 36.5° for the 35mm lens, and about 26° for the 50mm lens.

Then, two further experiments:

  • Choose some different focal lengths (15mm, 200mm) and see what those give you.

Step 8: a 15mm lens

Increase the size of the sensor line to 36mm, as in Nikon's "FX" full-frame cameras. Keep the line centered on the same dot, of course. Use your same lens dots but draw new X lines to the larger left and right edge of the sensor. It's immediately apparent that this makes the field of view of the same focal length much wider. Notice that the 35mm on your D7000 gives roughly the field of view of the 50mm on FX — this is why people talk about "equivalent" lenses.

Step 10: Full-frame

You can see that the lines for APS-C 35mm and "Full-Frame" 50mm aren't right on top of each other, as one might expect for an "equivalent". That's because this breaks down a bit at macro distance. If you move back a few millimeters, it'll line up correctly (but change perspective ever so slightly). The lines are roughly parallel, though, so those few millimeters are still just a few millimeters across the room, where they're inconsequential. If you draw this on a really big piece of paper instead of this little on-screen one, that'll become clear. (And of course, they're not exactly parallel, because the lenses don't quite match the crop factor — 32.7777...mm and 50mm would be more exact. Ah, the real world, always getting in the way of explaining things simply.)

This neatly (I hope) answers the question of the relationship between focal length and angle of view / field of view, and also explains the effect of different sensor sizes — and, as a bonus, shows how cropping is interchangeable with zooming (if you don't mind using less of your sensor).


Update: as greg g points out, the math in the quote you've found is wrong. If you do the exercise above, you can clearly see that 1.5× crop factor doesn't turn a 90° field of view into 60°. (And you can see why, which is the beauty of actually sketching out geometric constructions.)