How to manually focus Nikon d5100 at very low light conditions?

Question

Suppose I have to short in very low light so I have to set up shoter speed to 10-20 sec. Live view and autofocus doesn't work in this case and view finder give you a little help since it is to dark. The only thing I know for sure is distance to object, but I'm not sure how to rotate focus ring to focus on specific distance.

So there are actually two questions: 1. How to accurately focus in low light? I.e. you can't see sharpness in View finder. 2. How to accurately focus in almost zero light?

Asked by yura

Answer

Your best option is to light the subject temporarily somehow, than use auto-focus and focus lock (or better, switch to manual focus), remove the light and take the picture.

If you can't get enough light for auto focus to work but you still get get some light on the subject than use manual focus with live view (zoom in your live view to the maximum zoom to help with focusing).

Next best option is to use the lens distance scale if it has it - just stop down a bit to increase depth of field because those scales can be a bit inaccurate (also your subject distance is probably also inaccurate because if you can just walk up to the subject with a tape measure you can also walk to the subject with a flashlight and use auto-focus)

If you can't get any light on the subject and don't have a lens with a distance scale than your next option is to focus on something else that is approximately the same distance - this tends to be very inaccurate - so stop down to increase depth of field and use a depth of field calculator to make sure you have a wide margin of error (there are DOF calculator apps for all smartphones, or you can print a DOF table from an on-line calculator if you don't have a smartphone).

And finally, if everything else fail you can use the hyperfocal distance - when you focus to the hyperfocal distance (or behind it) everything from half the focus distance all the way to infinity is in focus, any DOF calculator will tell you the distance for a given focal length and aperture

If you use the hyperfocal distance, apart from giving up on blurring the background, you will also probably have to stop down because the smaller your aperture the closer the hyperfocal distance - and if your hyperfocal distance is smaller than your subject distance you have enough margin of error to get this right in the dark using approximate distances.

Also, you want to focus a bit farther than the hyperfocal distance because if you accidentally focus even a bit nearer not everything to infinity will be in focus and you can get an out of focus subject.

Answered by Nir

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is there any reason to disable VR in Nikon lenses?

Question

Perhaps it is safer to storage/carry lenses with VR disabled or may be with very small shorted speed VR decrease quality of picture.

Asked by yura

Answer

For storage you don't have to disable VR, but you should wait for the VR system to be disengaged (take your finger off the shutter release and wait a few seconds) before turning off the camera and removing the lens. This isn't critical, but if you wait, the VR elements will lock in place and not rattle around as the lens is moved. See article here: Removing a VR lens from a camera.

Thom Hogan2 says it better than I could - basically you ought to leave VR off until you have a situation where it is needed: for example, at high shutter speeds (1/500th and faster) VR may decrease IQ as the vibration reduction frequency may be slower than the shutter speed and be out of sync, and for many VR lenses, you should switch off VR if you are using a tripod. So better to switch it on when needed, rather than leaving it on all the time - good advice I think.

Answered by MikeW

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How do I keep my Nikon D5100 from attempting to autofocus with every shutter press?

Question

I have a Nikon D5100 and the auto focus works fairly well most of the time. But there are times when I have a subject in focus and want to fire off multiple shots fairly quickly. I do not need to focus every time on the subject yet auto focus will attempt to re-focus the picture every time that I press the shutter down. Only way I have found around this is to switch to manual focus. Is there a way to keep the camera in auto focus mode but have it not auto focus every shot.

An example: I was shooting the moon (no pun intended => ) the other night and the auto focus had the moon in focus without an issue. Every time I pressed the shutter the camera would attempt to focus. I was attempting to fire the shutter as quick as possible to show to motion of the moon rising and having it focus every time causes too much delay.

Asked by Lynda

Answer

You can configure the back button on your camera that is AF/AE lock to lock your focus. You'll focus, press the button, and the focus will lock until pressed again. You want to go to the menu and select "buttons' and then set the button to "AF Lock" I believe.

Answered by rfusca

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Nikon D5100 Autofocus

Question

I have a Nikon D5100 and the auto focus works fairly well most of the time. But there are times when I have a subject in focus and want to fire off multiple shots fairly quickly. I do not need to focus every time on the subject yet auto focus will attempt to re-focus the picture every time that I press the shutter down. Only way I have found around this is to switch to manual focus. Is there a way to keep the camera in auto focus mode but have it not auto focus every shot.

An example: I was shooting the moon (no pun intended => ) the other night and the auto focus had the moon in focus without an issue. Every time I pressed the shutter the camera would attempt to focus. I was attempting to fire the shutter as quick as possible to show to motion of the moon rising and having it focus every time causes too much delay.

Asked by Lynda

Answer

You can configure the back button on your camera that is AF/AE lock to lock your focus. You'll focus, press the button, and the focus will lock until pressed again. You want to go to the menu and select "buttons' and then set the button to "AF Lock" I believe.

Answered by rfusca

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Multiple Folders on a Memory Card

Question

Recently when looking at my memory card I noticed that there were multiple folders on the memory card. The file path looked like this:

DCIM > 100D5100 and 101D5100 

The D5100 is the camera I am using but I have seen this behavior on multiple cameras. Why does the camera(s) automatically split the photos into multiple folders?

Note: The photos will go from 1 - 345 for folder 1 then 345 - 700 for folder 2 etc. but I have not seen any patterns that would dictate when a new folder is created.

Asked by Lynda

Answer

This is really a case of read your camera manual. If your camera did not come with a full one, there will be one on a CD. The behavior greatly varies.

Usually cameras use filenames which gives them 4-digit numbering (some use 5 numbers), so you could in theory have 9999 photos in a single folder. However, cameras can break down these images in folders differently. Furthermore, some cameras let you control this using their Setup/Config menus:

• Some DSLRs like the Pentax K-5 aim to keep folders with a set number of images (500 in this case) but they can give you more since they won't break up a bracket.
• Some cameras wont break up bursts, some put them in separate folders.
• Some also have separate folders for images taken in panorama assist mode.
• A few models also break up folders by calendar days and name the folder according to the month and day.
• They can also break things by number of photos shot instead of counting the ones kept. In this case you will have always less than a certain number. Nikon entry-level cameras usually follows this approach with a limit of 499 or 999.
• Finally, some DSLRs, SLDs and a handful of ultra-zoom let folders be created by the user. In this case the folder still contains 3 digit sequence number which increments should the folder itself goes beyond the capacity which the camera likes.

Personally I find this annoying to have to copy from more than one folder but I'm not the one designing these things! What I do is to rename all files sequentially using a small Python script after copying the keepers to my computer.

Answered by Itai

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Why do I get two JPEG files instead of RAW+JPEG when transfering to my computer from my Nikon D5100?

Question

I have a Nikon D5100 and I want to shoot RAW and JPG at the same time. I select RAW+N (RAW plus Normal Size JPG). Now when I export the shots to my computer I end up with two files called DSC_0123 (1).jpg and DSC_0123.jpg. (Both files are the same size). I am missing the raw NEF file. Why is the camera doing this and is something set wrong?

Note: When shooting in RAW only the files are produced normally and function as expected. The firmware is the latest Version (1.01). I have 3 modes for RAW + JPG -- They are RAW+B (Basic) RAW+N (Normal) RAW+F (fine) all three produce JPG and no raw file.

Here are a few ideas that I have tried:

• Reset Camera Settings
• Try another memory card (Note: The memory cards I have are all Transcend 16GB Class 10)

Asked by Lynda

Answer

From reading http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1034&message=38261447&changemode=1

and

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1034&message=21930545&changemode=1

You will need to have Nikon's Transfer software or use View NX 2

UPDATE: As a side tip (maybe you already do this) but I never connect my DSLR to the PC I always use one of these - Bottom line is - I dont want something to go wrong with my camera on the PC - I would much rather a memory card take that hit.

Answered by Rob

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Nikon D5100 - Saving RAW and JPG Files

Question

I have a Nikon D5100 and I want to shoot RAW and JPG at the same time. I select RAW+N (RAW plus Normal Size JPG). Now when I export the shots to my computer I end up with two files called DSC_0123 (1).jpg and DSC_0123.jpg. (Both files are the same size). I am missing the raw NEF file. Why is the camera doing this and is something set wrong?

Note: When shooting in RAW only the files are produced normally and function as expected. The firmware is the latest Version (1.01). I have 3 modes for RAW + JPG -- They are RAW+B (Basic) RAW+N (Normal) RAW+F (fine) all three produce JPG and no raw file.

Here are a few ideas that I have tried:

• Reset Camera Settings
• Try another memory card (Note: The memory cards I have are all Transcend 16GB Class 10)

Asked by Lynda

Answer

From reading http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1034&message=38261447&changemode=1

and

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1034&message=21930545&changemode=1

You will need to have Nikon's Transfer software or use View NX 2

UPDATE: As a side tip (maybe you already do this) but I never connect my DSLR to the PC I always use one of these - Bottom line is - I dont want something to go wrong with my camera on the PC - I would much rather a memory card take that hit.

Answered by Rob

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Nikon D5100 M Mode (Manual) settings reset for every shot whilst the camera pointing to the same object

Question

I've just noticed that whilst shooting with my D5100 using M mode settings reset after each shot. Say, the camera is on a tripod pointing to an object. I've balanced out the exposure to a 0, aperture set to F/8 (this doesn't change btw) and the shutter speed is set to 1/15. I take the picture (camera hasn't moved) and the exposure level and the shutter speed have changed to some random settings (+2 EV exposure and 1/250 shutter speed - it's different every time though). I've searched everywhere, but couldn't find an option that would allow me to save/lock my current settings providing the the image in the view finder doesn't change.

Ideas?

Ta.

Asked by Valdas Bycenkovas

Answer

I have a D5100 and I have not seen this happen. As Zak mentioned you may want to try a factory reset. Also are you using the latest firmware for the D5100? The only time I have ever seen anything reset is after the camera turns off, and even then the only thing I have seen reset going from Quick Response Mode for the remote to Single Shot mode. The settings themselves stay the same.

Answered by Lynda

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How can I view Nikon RAW files as I transfer them to my Windows computer?

Question

When I download my raw (Nikon NEF) files from my camera I just connect a USB cord that came with my camera and download the files off of the card. My question is, is it possible to view the files I am downloading. Currently my screen looks like this:

While I do not mind no thumbnail view it would be nice to at least see the file numbers. JPEGs show the thumbnail but no file name. Is it possible to get both?

Few Notes: I am using the FastPictureViewer Codec Pack 3.2, so I can view RAW files in Windows. These files also do not display in Adobe Bridge. I am on Windows XP and using a Nikon D5100. Once I transfer files from camera to local hard drive the raw files view without issue.

Asked by Lynda

Answer

I have no idea why you aren't seeing the file names—I use the "classic" views (rather than the task-based native XP version), and I can see the file names regardless of the view mode (tiles, thumbnails, list, details, etc.).

You will need to download and install the Nikon NEF codec to get thumbnails outside of your photo management/editing software. Note that I see thumbnails in Thumbnails view only; I get an Adobe application icon in Tiles view. Also, the thumbnails are never rotated, at least on my system, so shots taken in portrait orientation will be laid over on their sides in Explorer.

Answered by Stan Rogers

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What are the advantages of moving from the Canon 550D to Nikon D5100?

Question

What are the advantages of moving from a Canon 550D(Rebel T2i) to Nikon D5100 ?

I purchased a Canon 550D a month ago with a 18-55 kit lens, even before I could become a pro, I am getting an opportunity to replace it with a Nikon D5100 at no extra cost. Not to mention I wasn't very happy with the photographs output that I got but I wouldn't blame the camera as I haven't explored it in detail.

Please don't compare the Nikon vs Canon ideology, I am interested in comparing only these two models with the same kit lens.

Answer

• D5100 was released in 2011, the 550D in 2010
• D5100 will shoot 4 frames per second, the 55D 3.7 fps
• D5100 has a slightly larger sensor (23.6 × 15.6 mm vs 22.3 x 14.9 mm) and 16 MP vs 18 MP
• D5100 does not have an AF motor, so will not use the full range of Nikon lenses (will only AF with the newer AF-S lenses)
• D5100 has a reticulating LCD (flips out) which you might find useful, or not
• D5100 has 11 AF points vs. 9 for the 550D
• D5100 has in-camera HDR (a cool feature I didn't know existed, not sure how well it actually works!)
• I have read (inconclusive) suggestions that the D5100 has less noise at high ISO (you would need to look on dpreview and similar sites and compare test shots yourself, it's somewhat subjective)

I'm not sure any of these are really vitally important. The D5100 is a newer camera, so you should expect it to be incrementally better than the older 550D.

I would listen to the advice in the comments that you are buying into a system/brand, at least once you buy another lens, a flash etc. Makes it expensive to ditch that to switch back to the other brand. So you are locking yourself in somewhat, so beware of going one way or the other based on a few differences between these two cameras.

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How do lens prices compare for Nikon and Canon?

Question

I am about to buy a new DSLR and shortlisted the two models, Nikon D5100 and Canon 550D. I ready to buy the Nikon model(more expensive) but learned that Nikon lenses are much more expensive than Canon lenses, is this true? I compared the cost of 50mm prime lens from Canon and Nikon and noticed that the Nikon prime lens with motor is almost twice as costly than the Canon lens. However there was a manual focus lens that was of similar cost as Canon. This was very disappointing to me.

Are Nikon and Canon equivalent lenses with built in autofocus motor priced differently? Lens costs are important for me so I wanted to confirm this.

I also have another question :From the Pics that I have seen on Flickr it seems that Nikon Pics have more saturated Color than Canon. Is it true? Will it be possible to take similar Pics from Canon 550D?

Answer

I suspect that much of the reason for the AF lens price difference boils down to this: Canon has always had autofocus motors in their EF-mount lenses, there never was an EF mount camera with a built-in focus motor. As such, they have a lot of really old AF lens models still in production, like the 50/1.8.

Nikon, on the other hand, has always had autofocus motors in their camera bodies. As such, their old lens designs, while as cheap as equivalent Canon ones, do not have built-in AF motors. (No need for one, they could just use the AF motor in the camera!) However, the consumer-level Nikon camera bodies made in recent years do not have built-in AF motors. And it was only when this happened that there was any reason for Nikon to start making lenses with AF motors (excepting some pro-level lenses that had built-in focus motors for added speed and low noise).

In other words, for a Nikon lens to have a built-in AF motor pretty much guarantees that the lens is a pretty recent one. A similar Canon lens can easily be a twenty year old design that is still in production. And new lenses are more expensive than old lenses, that is just how it is. If you compare the price on a recently designed Canon lens, like the 24/1.4L mk II, with the equivalent Nikon lens, the price is not all that different.

There is an upside to having a recently designed lens though: It is likely to behave somewhat better on a digital camera than an old one that was designed to be used with film. So you do get some benefits for the extra money.

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Does the Nikon D5100 have a mode or the ability to create a mode to support an effect similar to black and white film photography?

Question

The camera has a mode called "Night Vision", which appears to product gray-scale images, however I'm not experienced enough with black and white film photography to know if this behaves in a similar manner - I've only shot about a dozen images on black and white film, and I wasn't too great, but I have seen some really nice black and white images and would like to experiment with that style.

Is this "Night Vision" mode what I'm looking for? Or is there a way I can configure my camera to emulate black and white film photography?

Answer

You want to look a the Picture Control menu and set it to Monochrome.

Night Vision is an extended-ISO trick that results in monochrome images, but it's meant for shooting in extremely low light; throwing away the colour information allows the camera to produce less-noisy images at very high ISO settings. Using Night Vision in better-lit circumstances is making your images noisy for no good reason (and may call for smaller apertures and higher shutter speeds than your camera and lens can deliver).

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Do I really need class 10 or 30MB/s card for my DSLR?

Question

My camera came with 4GB class 10, 30 MB/sec card. I wanted to upgrade to high capacity memory card but I was skeptical, a lower speed card such as class 10, 20MB/sec will cripple my camera when I use it at its highest setting. I checked reviews online for super fast cards. I found this review quite useful. When I did the same test on my camera, I would notice it would stop in the middle (quite long pauses) and I really did not get the full 4 f/s picture that my camera is cable of.

Recently I went to NYC and used up all the memory of my 4GB card in one day so I got worried, I need a high capacity card esp because I want to shoot in raw. Instead of buying an new fast card first, I tried my 16 GB, class 2, micro SD card from my phone and put it test :)

It could shoot continuously (with no delay) at 2 or 2.2 f/s.This was in RAW format. I was actually very happy with that! I though it would just totally cripple my camera. I did video test too on High Quality, 25 fps and it came out good, no jerks. So I am really happy that I can use my 16 GB class 2 card in my camera.

My question is, am I missing something? Do we really need a 30MB/sec card for the DSLR. Will the photo and video quality be the same with both the cards?

One thing I noticed with class 2 card is that browsing in camera was slow (noticeably slow), but as long as the camera captures the moments right, I am happy with it. Am I missing anything.

This question is more intended to ward, is it kind of myth that you have to use 30MB/sec card?

Answer

This other question covers how to figure out what speed you really need. But to answer the other part of what you are asking: No, card speed does not affect image quality in any way. The image files are digital, and it's not like analog cassette tapes where the composition of the media can make a difference. The only case image quality could be affected is when the slower speed force you to choose a lower-quality setting in order to make smaller files. But that's a choice you'd make intentionally.

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Is the Nikon D5100 really better than the D200?

Question

On a wedding occasion, I learned the photographer was using D200. I have D5100. I quickly jumped in and checked the prices on Amazon (it was 2.5x expensive) and then compared it on snapsort. Now the site says D5100 is winner. The votes on the site also favor D5100 vs D200.

Should I be convinced that although the photographer was using a nearly $3000 camera but mine is better? In other words a newer lower-model camera is better than an older, higher-end one?

I would also ask this: I know price is the big difference so let's ignore the price. Let's say you are are paying $1000 for either of the cameras — which one will you buy?

Answer

I have owned both the d200 and the d3000 (very similar body to the d5100).

The d5100 has a better sensor and a better LCD but the d200 has a much better body.

The d200 is more durable, has a ton of body controls, and has a 2nd display. You can change all of the important exposure settings very quickly with just a glance down at the body. This can't be said for the d5100, where you have to enter the menu to change settings.

This is not a trivial difference, if you are used to a higher end Nikon body you will feel crippled trying to shoot with a d5100.

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Does the Nikon D5100 have true auto bracketing and how do I use it?

Question

There is a bracketing feature on Nikon D5100 but it does not seem to work as it does on other cameras such as D90.

There is also a separate feature called HDR on D51000 and I am guessing Bracketing is being confused with it. HDR is totally different and should not be called bracketing, should it? Can someone clarify this to me you can take 3 multiple shots with different exposure on Nikon D5100 and view them seperately?

Answer

The D5100 can bracket for exposure, which is what I suppose you call true bracketing. Technically this is AEB which stands for Auto-Exposure Bracketing.

It can also bracket for WB or Adaptive D-Lighting which is what people refer to as a virtual bracket because the camera takes ONE shot and saves it 3 times, with different WB or Adaptive D-Lighting setting.

There is ALSO a separate HDR feature which takes 3 shots of bracketed for exposure (AEB) but blends them together into one tone-mapped shot right in the camera. In this case only one image is saved onto the memory card. Technically this is closer to Exposure-Fusion but HDR is a better known acronym so most products say HDR instead.

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Bracketing on Nikon D5100, is it true bracketing?

Question

There is a bracketing feature on Nikon D5100 but it does not seem to work as it does on other cameras such as D90.

There is also a separate feature called HDR on D51000 and I am guessing Bracketing is being confused with it. HDR is totally different and should not be called bracketing? Can someone clarify this to me you can take 3 multiple shots with different exposure on Nikon D5100 and view them seperately?

Answer

The D5100 can bracket for exposure, which is what I suppose you call true bracketing. Technically this is AEB which stands for Auto-Exposure Bracketing.

It can also bracket for WB or Adaptive D-Lighting which is what people refer to as a virtual bracket because the camera takes ONE shot and saves it 3 times, with different WB or Adaptive D-Lighting setting.

There is ALSO a separate HDR feature which takes 3 shots of bracketed for exposure (AEB) but blends them together into one tone-mapped shot right in the camera. In this case only one image is saved onto the memory card. Technically this is closer to Exposure-Fusion but HDR is a better known acronym so most products say HDR instead.

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When buying entry level cameras, are lenses really more important than the body?

Question

Original Question: Is there a D5100 alternative

I was considering my first DSLR Nikon D3000, then saw D3100 and was fixed on it, then saw D5100 and I though yes,this is the one to go for. While browsing here, I came across comments that "Lenses are your first thing and then body", "Spend money on lenses and spend less on body". While I am new (and could be wrong), I don't quite agree with it. I compared images of D3100 Vs D5100, the picture quality is way better (and I believe with same lenses). I do like D3100 for it is lighter (highly desirable), cheaper and a full DSLR, but I am really impressed with D5100, its flip screen, image quality (80) vs (65).

D5100 is perhaps a little bit heavy for me, and does not feel that great in hands. I like the feel of Canon T3i better (a lot better) but then, I do believe D5100 has a far superior image quality (in my view). HDR is a plus for me as well. My question is, should I consider D3100, or a Canon? My price range is below $1000 but can go up if justified.

I like to photograph plants, sceneries in spring, myself, mountains, hiking, take shots of ppl and perhaps historic places and thunderstorms. Please suggest. I am already getting a good deal on Nikon5100. Is there anything I am missing. It is a first time big investment for me on camera.

Answer

Cameras matter too, and at the bottom end there's a considerable difference between models. That advice largely starts to apply for film or more for cameras above the 1k mark, where the basic features are all included and you're differing on the quality of included systems - not simply if they're present. That said - the kit lens included with most of these cameras is not very good and you should consider getting something better as a top priority. The aperture doesn't go wide enough to give you sufficient creative control over depth of field. Consider picking up a cheap 35mm or 50mm f/1.8 and you'll learn more and get better results.

In regards to the specific camera question, if you can stretch a little above the 1000 dollar mark - go for the D7000. Its in a class clearly above the others. 100% viewfinder, in body motor, high IQ, weatherproofing, dual controls - its a much better camera.

If thats not an option, there are certainly features on the D5100 that are attractive vs the D3100 - which you've already listed and are generally correct. But I think you're overstating the difference in IQ in normal situations - the D3100 is certainly no slouch. The D5100 reportedly feels a bit clumsy from a user experience perspective. Notably, it lacks the drive mode switch of the D3100. The easier your camera is to use to you, the more you'll like it than just higher IQ.

I can't tell you which features you'd use more, but I certainly wouldn't base my sole decision on the IQ between the D5100 and D3100 (even though the D5100 is better). If its between the D5100 and the kit lens or the D3100 and a better lens - I'd get the D3100 and a better lens. If you've got the cash, spring for the D7000 and pick up a 50mm or 35mm f/1.8.

Check out this also:

What should I look for when shopping for my first DSLR?

Are there disadvantages to a prosumer camera for a beginner, aside from cost?

---

Canon, Pentax, and Sony are all viable options too - What are considerations when choosing a DSLR brand? In your price range, they've all got advantages and disadvantages and there's no clear winner - pick one you like and consider the advice in that question.

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How do I enable auto-ISO in non-scene modes in a Nikon D5100?

Question

I'm trying to enable auto-ISO on my dad's Nikon D5100. There is an "Auto" option for "ISO sensitivity" in the menu, logically-enough under "ISO sensitivity settings"). This works fine in the Scene modes, but with P, A, S, or M, I get:

This option is not available at current settings or in the camera's current state.

Surely auto-ISO is not only available in the preprogrammed modes. How do I enable it?

Update: there is a separate section to "ISO sensitivity settings" below the main choice. That is only available in the P, S, A, and M modes, and has "Auto ISO sensitivity control". I've set this to ON, but empirically it's the hard-set value above that actually gets used. What is this separate setting, why is it separate, and (most of all) why doesn't it work?

Answer

Auto ISO isn't available in the non-scene modes per se.

The ISO Sensitivity Auto control option you mention in the latter part of your question is essentially 'Auto Pro'. You'll note in the menu that you can set a max ISO and a minimum shutter speed.

When ISO Sensitivity Auto control is enabled, the camera will endeavour to use the ISO you set, but will increase the ISO automatically (up to your defined max) if it's not achieving the shutter speed set in the menu. If you actually take a shot then check the settings used on the LCD, you may well see that the ISO will be a different value, and shown in red, to indicate that the camera took over and adjusted it automatically.

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