Showing posts with label manual-mode. Show all posts
Showing posts with label manual-mode. Show all posts

Thursday, April 26, 2012

Nikon D5100 M Mode (Manual) settings reset for every shot whilst the camera pointing to the same object

Question

I've just noticed that whilst shooting with my D5100 using M mode settings reset after each shot. Say, the camera is on a tripod pointing to an object. I've balanced out the exposure to a 0, aperture set to F/8 (this doesn't change btw) and the shutter speed is set to 1/15. I take the picture (camera hasn't moved) and the exposure level and the shutter speed have changed to some random settings (+2 EV exposure and 1/250 shutter speed - it's different every time though). I've searched everywhere, but couldn't find an option that would allow me to save/lock my current settings providing the the image in the view finder doesn't change.

Ideas?

Ta.

Answer

I have a D5100 and I have not seen this happen. As Zak mentioned you may want to try a factory reset. Also are you using the latest firmware for the D5100? The only time I have ever seen anything reset is after the camera turns off, and even then the only thing I have seen reset going from Quick Response Mode for the remote to Single Shot mode. The settings themselves stay the same.

Answered by Lynda

Wednesday, April 11, 2012

How to meter for manual bounce flash?

Question

I use an eBay flash in manual mode. Mostly indoors, so I bounce the flash off the ceiling. What is a good approach to read the camera metering and make adjustments to flash intensity?

My flash cannot communicate with my camera. No (E)TTL.

No guide number chart.

Asked by publicRavi

Answer

I have four manual flashes. I love them. I just make a test shot and look at the histogram on the back of my camera: adjust to suit.

Works great.

Check out the Strobist, he loves manual flashes (http://strobist.blogspot.com/)

Answered by Pat Farrell

Thursday, December 29, 2011

Is it possible to get custom firmware for digital (pointand shoot) cameras?

Question

Is it possible to manually update a digital camera's firmware?

Is there any organization or do individual people develop custom firmwares?

I am using Samsung SL30 and that lacks allowing manual control over settings. Is a firmware update possible, or is there any other better way?

Answer

Your best bet is to switch to Canon.

I use both and love them. In particular, CHDK gives manual controls to most P&S, and can also shoot raw on those models that only support jpeg.

Monday, December 12, 2011

How to capture detail of craters on the moon?

Question

How can I photograph the moon so that I see detail of the craters and mountains?

I have a Canon EOS 550D (T2i) and tried "No Flash", "P" as well as creative auto mode, but to no avail. Every time I get a completely white moon.

Moon Shot

Answer

I had exactly the same problem when I first tried to photograph the moon: all I ever got was an overexposed white circle.

The answer is that the moon is much brighter than you realise. Also, unless you have a very telescopic lens, it's going to be pretty small in your photo. If you use one of the camera's automatic modes, the camera will try to get the "right" exposure for a scene made up of lots of black sky and a tiny bit of moon. The "lots of black sky" wins out, the camera brightens the exposure, and you lose the detail in the moon.

The best way to capture the moon is therefore to use Manual mode. This isn't as difficult as it sounds:

  1. Switch the mode dial to M.
  2. Set the ISO setting to something quite low: between 100 and 400 should do it.
  3. Set your aperture setting to somewhere round f/5.6.
  4. Set your shutter speed to around 1/100s.

Now try a shot and see how it looks. If it's too bright, keep reducing the shutter speed until you start to see the detail of the craters. If you've somehow under-exposed it, just do the opposite: try a slower shutter speed, a smaller aperture or a lower ISO setting.

The main thing is ignore what the camera is telling you! It'll be flashing away like crazy saying your shot is going to be too dark, but just ignore it. We know the sky will be "too dark", but it's the moon we're after. Fold away your targeting computer, Luke. Use the Force.

Good luck!

Monday, November 28, 2011

What advantages does manual mode have over aperture priority mode?

Question

I'm wondering what are the most compelling reasons to switch to manual mode on my DSLR. I mostly just use aperture priority mode so I have good control over the depth of field combined with an awareness of the shutter speed that goes with it. My photography is mostly done wandering about with camera in hand, or occasionally on a tripod. I don't do studio photography and I just use the natural light.

I did learn how to take photos manually (with an Olympus OM-1) so I know how to do it, but I enjoy the extra convenience of aperture mode, particularly being able to take the photo quickly and capturing the moment rather than fiddling with dials and missing the shot.

So what would be some key advantages of using manual mode for my sort of photography that are worth the (small amount of) extra hassle involved?

And do you have any tips to minimise the downside (other than practicing to be quick)?

Answer

I typically use aperture priority as well, but I also work a fair bit in manual mode. The typical case for me is if I am in an environment where the lighting situation is quite static, but the subject may have a lot of contrast. Here I switch to manual mode and shoot a few test frames to pinpoint the exposure (typically I try to spot meter on a white surface, and then overexpose that reading by 1.5-2 steps as a first guess).

The main advantage is that you are in full control, and the camera will not be "fooled" by unexpected contrasts in the frame. The downside is that it is a bit slower to change exposure in case the lighting situation changes.

Wednesday, October 26, 2011

Which camera offers flexible remote control and good manual controls?

Question

I want to switch to a system camera, preferably one from the Micro Four Thirds or Four Thirds systems. Since I also want to do experimental technical setups like time lapse or astrophotography, I have a set of requirements that are not easy to check for on the manufacturer's websites.

Can you recommend a camera with

  • flexible remote control software (I'd like to have at least a live preview and controls for shutter, focus, f-stop, sensitivity and shutter speed)

    • Edit: Alternatively, a connector for an external monitor and a programmable remore control would also work for me. To put it another way, I don't need a computer in my setup, but I want the ability to control the camera without touching it.
  • the ability to provide a video stream like a webcam (ok, that's more of a bonus item, no hard requirement)

  • good manual controls (preferably two separate control wheels for f-stop and shutter speed)

  • low sensor noise

  • overall good usability

I suppose that adapters for M42, which is the standard connector on telescopes, are generally available. If I'm wrong, this becomes another "hard" requirement.

The cost of the body should not exceed $750, but in order to keep the answers relevant for everyone, please also list models costing more.

MTIA for all hints!

Answer

I would take a look at the Canon 60D. It is not a micro four thirds camera, it is an APS-C sensor sized camera. The reasons I suggest this include:

  • Larger sensors as opposed to the micro four thirds format should provide lower noise typically
  • The 60D has great manual controls, including an index finger wheel near the shutter release and a full size wheel on the back
  • Available remote control software(example1,2)
  • Not an extremely large body

It does not sound like you have a hard requirement for micro four thirds, only for cost, remote control software, noise performance, and usability. I think you will find all of this and more in the canon 60D for right around $750. The 50D would also be an option to save a bit of money.

Saturday, October 1, 2011

What automatic modes are appropriate, if any, for outdoor vs. indoor situations? [closed]

Question

Possible Duplicate:
Why would I use manual camera controls instead of the automatic modes?

I am asking this question particularly relevant to photography in

  1. Sunlight
  2. Indoors

I hope the answer will give me some insight on how to use my camera better. Should I use auto mode often? I am newbie.

Adding : I am familiar with aperture, shutter speed, ISO and I have Nikon D5100.

Answer

I use a program mode the majority of the time that I am not in a studio. An example of that would be aperture priority mode - where I get to set the aperture and ISO that stays consistent, and my camera is allowed to determine the shutter speed to keep the exposure proper.

Full Auto mode, which many entry level DSLR cameras have, is great if you hand your camera to someone who is unfamiliar with the unit. Other then that, I rarely find a use for it. It simply does not provide enough options for what I want to typically do.

In sunlight for example - you may be concerned about the depth of field, which is controlled by the aperture. So you may choose to keep everything in focus by selecting a higher aperture value(eg f/8). Selecting this in the "aperture priority" mode will allow the camera to select a suitable shutter speed as needed.

Indoors you may be concerned with freezing your subjects. In this case you may way to select a fast enough shutter speed to freeze the action. Shutter priority would be well suited to this.

Experiment and you will find what you like!

When using your digital SLR, how often do you keep your camera setting on Auto mode? [closed]

Question

I am asking this question particularly relevant to photography in

  1. Sunlight
  2. Indoors

I hope the answer will give me some insight on how to use my camera better. Should I use auto mode often? I am newbie.

Adding : I am familiar with aperture, shutter speed, ISO and I have Nikon D5100.

Answer

I use a program mode the majority of the time that I am not in a studio. An example of that would be aperture priority mode - where I get to set the aperture and ISO that stays consistent, and my camera is allowed to determine the shutter speed to keep the exposure proper.

Full Auto mode, which many entry level DSLR cameras have, is great if you hand your camera to someone who is unfamiliar with the unit. Other then that, I rarely find a use for it. It simply does not provide enough options for what I want to typically do.

In sunlight for example - you may be concerned about the depth of field, which is controlled by the aperture. So you may choose to keep everything in focus by selecting a higher aperture value(eg f/8). Selecting this in the "aperture priority" mode will allow the camera to select a suitable shutter speed as needed.

Indoors you may be concerned with freezing your subjects. In this case you may way to select a fast enough shutter speed to freeze the action. Shutter priority would be well suited to this.

Experiment and you will find what you like!

How to Force my Nikon D5000 to take a photo in low light?

Question

Every so often I try to take a picture in low light, usually indoors and find that my camera attempts to focus, grumbles a bit and then refuses to take the shot.

This is annoying, not least because I entered the bewildering and expensive world of dSLR photography precisely so I could get away from the 'point and shoot' paradigm and its restrictions and thought that a dSLR would give me total control over what I wanted to shoot. I might still want to take the picture whether I think the light is poor or not...

Am I missing something here - is there some kind of override setting or have i inadvertently snookered myself out of five hundred quid?

Answer

It is simply too dark for the camera to focus. And by default it will refuse to take the shot unless it has focused.

There are some possible workarounds: - Some cameras can be forced to take the shot when you press the button, no matter what. The inevitable result is an unsharp photo. I don't suppose that this is what you want.

  • I assume that you are using the kit lens, an 18-55 f/3.5-5.6 kind of job? The downside to this type of lens is that it doesn't let in a whole lot of light, which makes the autofocus system's job more difficult. A faster lens, such as a 35mm or 50mm f/1.8 will do wonders for autofocus performance.

  • Be aware that autofocus depends on focusing something that has a bit of contrast. If you point it towards a blank wall, it will most likely simply hunt and hunt and never lock on. Poor light makes this worse. Instead, point it at a part of the motive that has good contrast against the background, this will make the AF's job easier.

  • Manual focus. The viewfinder of the entry-level cameras tend to be tunnel-like but you will at least get a photo this way.

  • Use a flash, either the built-in one or an external one. External flashes, at least the larger models, can project a grid-pattern on to the motive to aid focusing. The built-in ones tend to strobe a number of times I think, which is not all about red-eye reduction but also helps focusing. (I am not familiar with your camera model but suspect that it does not have a separate autofocus illumination lamp and depends on the flash for this.)

Friday, September 2, 2011

What camera priority mode should I use for HDR photos?

Question

I believe the best way to get HDR shots is by using the Av mode, so the depth of field is consistent across 2-3 images.

Should I be switching to manual mode and changing the shutter speed with a fixed aperture?

Answer

You should use the Aperture priority mode, and keep the aperture the same for all shots, otherwise you could get some odd focus differences between shots. The only downside is if you have to go low on your shutter speed and pick up motion blur.

The easiest thing to do is use the camera settings that do multiple shots (usually -2,0, +2) in rapid succession, in which case you don't need to worry much as the shots go off in seconds.

Wednesday, August 24, 2011

Manual photography cheat sheet — where can I find one, or what should be on it?

Question

I have been trying to shoot more in manual modes (both camera and flash). At this point, I understand all the concepts, but all the adjustments slow me down.

I'd like to have a "cheat sheet" with all the basic calculations/tables on it that I can refer to in order to speed up the process, in a format that I can easily keep in my camera bag.

Does anyone know of a good sheet, or alternatively, if I create it what information should I include?

At the moment I'd like to have at least:

  • an f-stop list (just full stops)
  • basic guide number information

Answer

Since there are 3 important variables here: aperture, shutter speed and ISO, I would Google for Exposure Triangle Cheat Sheet for example. Here are a few:

I see you updated your question. With respect to guide numbers here is one:

Friday, July 29, 2011

Why can't I take a photo in dark with auto focus, manual mode?

Question

I'm dorking around with a Nikon D80 and I am a total beginner. I am trying to shoot some light trails but the darn thing doesn't even take a picture. I am in manual mode with the bulb setting. For some reason, when I hold down the button, it does not take a picture. I can hold the button half way for the lens to auto focus (is that what it is doing when it is moving?), but when I press down all the way, the camera refuses to take a picture. When I go back to automatic mode, it happily takes a photo. What am I doing wrong? Thanks!!

Edited post: I am thinking it has something to do with how far/close the subject is. If there is something close, the camera doesn't want to take a picture, but if there is nothing right in front of it, it will take a pic in manual mode... (Generally hypothesizing right now.)

Answer: I think I found out what is wrong. The lens was on auto focus. I guess I had to change it to manual to use manual mode..... It works now (taking a pic of something close up that is..) Could anyone give a more detailed explanation as to what happened here? :)

Answer

Re. your answer - you don't have to have the focus set to Manual just because you're in Manual mode, but autofocus systems generally don't work in the dark. Therefore the camera will fail to focus and refuse to take a picture. By switching to manual you remove that problem.

Switching to Auto mode may allow autofocus because it turns the AF illuminator on. Autofocus works by splitting the image coming through the lens and then calculating the focus needed to recombine it. If the image is too dark, the camera can't 'see' what it's splitting and recombining, and so it will fail to focus. The AF illuminator lights up the scene so the camera can make its decision, but it's usually turned off when in the priority or manual modes.

When lighting painting, it's best to pre-focus manually with the lights on, then leave it on manual and turn the lights off.

Saturday, July 23, 2011

Can the Canon 5D Mark II be set to save exposure settings on auto power off?

Question

I usually use my 5D mark II in manual mode, with auto power off enabled, but every time it auto powers off, my exposure settings (shutter speed, aperture, iso) are lost. It seems like there should be a setting for those to be saved and restored.

It's very annoying as a lot of times I will dial in an exposure while hiking or out somewhere, and then when I go to take a picture a few minutes later my settings are lost and I take something way over exposed and miss whatever moment I was trying to capture.

Is there a setting I'm missing, or some kind of alternate firmware which will do this? It seems like something Canon should have thought of, but I haven't been able to find any information elsewhere.

Answer

I've tried the same thing on my 5DmkII and it works fine for me: the aperture, shutter speed, ISO and WB I set in M mode are still there when the camera's auto-powered off and been re-awoken. I'm on firmware 2.0.8, and I have auto power-off set to 1 minute.

Not sure if it's helpful to mention, but what you've described is exactly what I get if I'm in one of the custom modes (C1, C2, C3). That's by design though and worked exactly the same on my 40D. It's definitely not correct behaviour in M mode though: I wonder how the camera decides which settings it ought to revert to.

What compact interchangeable lens cameras have manual video?

Question

I'm looking to buy a single camera to use both as a personal snapshot camera and as a video camera to document my artistic work (mainly kinetic sculptures and light installations). The micro four thirds format is appealing for its compactness, as well as the short flange focal distance which allows potentially broad lens compatibility.

I was all set on buying the Lumix G3 but then I discovered it has no manual controls for video. I want at least aperture priority as the Vimeo shallow depth of field eye candy effect is kind of important in my field... The Lumix GH2 has manual video controls but it's simply too big to be called 'compact'. The Olympus PEN cameras have manual video controls, but seem to get bad reviews for video quality.

What's a good EVIL/CSC alternative? Ideally no bigger than the Lumix G3 but with the video controls and quality of the Lumix GH2. Could I adapt+attach a lens with a manual aperture ring to the G3 (to escape the no-manual-controls problem) and trust the G3's auto ISO + shutter speed to give me acceptable results?

Answer

four thirds will limit the ability to get the "depth of field eye candy effect"

You don't need a small aperture necessarily but the smaller the sensor the harder this is to achieve, the Sony uses an APS-C sensor which will help somewhat in doing what you want. I don't believe the manual control is up to par with your needs however.

Depth of field can be manufactured in post processing if it is a top priority of yours, this would give you more flexibility with camera choices as you can fiddle with it later on and get the image nice and sharp initially.

The Olympus also has some magnificent controls in regards to manual control, I think Andrew has a good point there. I can't say that the times I've used the PEN that the videos have been bad for a four thirds camera.

You can mount pretty much any lens to any camera these days it needs to have both manual aperture and focus rings however. I would really try to avoid any camera that does "auto ISO" or "auto aperture" as the only way to achieve great results is to control all these functions yourself. In decent light that means keeping ISO as low as you can and using your aperture to control the light and depth of field.

In the end the GH2 may not seem like a compact, but as soon as you put big lenses on these cameras, how can any of them be called compact? The only time I find the sony NEX even slightly compact is when it has the 17mm pancake lens on, then you lose your ability for decent depth of field (unless something is at minimum focus distance), any other lens, even primes make them so big that you may as well just get a better camera that is going to perform much better under your needs.

If you want professional results, unfortunately you are going to have to spend more on a camera to get them. In the end I would just get a decent proper DSLR and do things properly the first time.

The Nikon D3100 is one of the first DSLRs out with full time autofocus in Video and the results you will get, along with the lens options at your fingertips without mount adaptors and having to resort to manual lenses is far superior.

Friday, July 22, 2011

What are the benefits of Av vs. Tv vs. Manual exposure modes?

Question

So what's the benefit of using one over the other? The way I understand it, in Av or Tv, you only have to adjust the shutter or aperture, and the rest is done automatically for you...is this correct? Is there some advantage shooting with Av/Tv that I just don't know about?

Answer

First, I don't know, which advantages of Av/Tv you don't know about. :-)

For me, these modes are very useful, when I do not have time for full manual setting and I do not want to use full auto mode.

Sometimes for example I need the camera not to choose shutter speed less than 1/250 (when I use my telephoto zoom) but I am sure, the camera will choose acceptable F-number.

When I have camera on tripod and shoot some static objects, I use aperture priority as the time can be 20 seconds, when necessary.

The priority programs give me relative freedom to set only, what I need without need to care about the other settings. So I can better focus on photo itself - composition etc.

Sometimes I also use full manual mode - when I have enough time and want to fully control the camera.

Wednesday, July 13, 2011

Why would I use manual camera controls instead of the automatic modes?

Question

I'm very new to digital photography, so I still haven't gotten the hang of all this exposure and ISO stuff, etc. I have a Canon EOS T3.

My question is how big of a difference does it make using manual settings rather than auto settings for everything? I've taken some pretty nice photos with all auto settings, and I'm not sure if it could have turned out any better using manual settings. I know that there are some people who have been in the game for years upon years, and to them they can notice the difference between photos taken with manual vs auto settings, but for my situation, do you think it really makes a difference? Is my camera smart enough to determine the best settings for me?

Also, lets say manual settings are better (which I'm sure they are, since they give you greater control). How often are you supposed to adjust your settings? Between every shot, considering they are unique shots? Or does it not matter about the object, but rather the lighting environment? So if I'm in a forest at 2:00 PM on a sunny bright day and I take photos for one hour, should I be constantly adjusting my settings between every unique shot to get the best out of it? Or do I usually just find one setting that works for the environment I'm in?

Answer

Applying manual controls allows one more freedom to enhance, manipulate and master applied photographic applications. By understanding the interaction of shutter speed, aperture, and ISO speed, photography — identified as "drawing with light" — can be utilized to its fullest potential.

Full creativity with the use of manual control can then be used to make those "How did they do that?" photos.

How do I change the exposure setting in manual mode on a Canon EOS 550D?

Question

I have recently bought a Canon EOS 550D. In the Manual Mode, I am unable to change the exposure level. What am I missing here? I am sure there must be a way to change it.

Answer

Based on experience, I am certain you are confusing exposure and exposure-compensation.

Exposure is a product of 3 parameters: ISO, shutter-speed, aperture. In Manual mode, you control all of these and doing so sets the exposure. @jrista shows very clearly how to control each of them. For how they relate, see What is the exposure triangle?.

Exposure-compensation (EC), marked on most cameras including yours by a ± sign, is an offset from the exposure the camera is computing in automatic (P, Auto) and semi automatic mode (S, A). In all these modes, the camera computes an exposure (based on the metering mode) and EC is how you tell the camera to adjust the computed value by a certain amount.

In other words:

  • In all modes except manual: The camera computes an exposure and you use EC to tell it to make things brighter or darker relative to its guess.
  • In manual mode: You set the exposure exactly using Aperture, Shutter-Speed and ISO. There is no offset the camera can apply because all the parameters have been fixed by you.