Showing posts with label image-quality. Show all posts
Showing posts with label image-quality. Show all posts

Friday, May 18, 2012

Is there are any difference in quality between Large Fine JPG and converted NEF?

Question

Assume that I do not want to do any post-processing, such as white balancing, etc. I would like to preserve the best resolution (for possible cropping). So the question is: Are there any quality differences between shooting in-camera JPG, versus converting NEF to JPEG using ViewNX, Picasa, etc.?

Asked by yura

Answer

If you aren't interested in post-processing, then an in-camera jpeg will have the same resolution as a RAW image and the amount of detail in the image should be roughly the same. There is more flexibility in the RAW format in terms of post-processing and color corrections.

As an example, here is Digital Photography Review's review of the Nikon D800 showing the difference between high-quality jpeg and RAW -- http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/nikon-d800-d800e/22

Answered by David Rouse

Thursday, May 17, 2012

Why picture quality decreasing with very big apperture? [closed]

Question

Possible Duplicates:
What is a “diffraction limit”?
Why are my photos taken at f/11 less sharp than those taken at a wider aperture?

I have made 3 landscape pictures with f/12, f/22 and f/32. Shutter speed and ISO are almost same, but last one has a lot of blur and is very pale. Why this happen? My purpose was to get maximal DOF.

Details: Nikon d5100, 18-55 kit

Asked by yura

Answer

Without wishing to get into detail - the short answer to your question is diffraction. This happens at smaller apertures, usually when you get above f/16 to f/22 etc, and the extent to which it occurs depends on the optical quality of the lens used. In your case, the 18-55mm kit lens which is a mass-produced cheap kit lens will show this problem moreso than say a fixed focal length prime lens.

You can achieve good depth of field with a more modest aperture such as f/14. There is rarely if ever good cause to go all the way up to f/22.

Answered by Mike

Saturday, May 5, 2012

What are some good online forums for discussing photographic editing?

Question

What are some good forums for talking about editing photos in Photoshop or GIMP? Where do you talk about such things?

EDIT: Other than here, of course.

Asked by snostorm

Answer

Completely agree with jrista, but assuming you meant "other than this cool place", I like dgrin's "Finishing School" subforum.

Answered by Jordan H.

Thursday, May 3, 2012

What post-processing tricks can be used to improve the quality of photos taken with the on-camera flash?

Question

I know that the on-camera flash tends to produce poor images in general (the subjects are washed out, and the light from the flash isn't very powerful). But... sometimes there's no other choice but to use the on-camera flash and hope for the best. So I'm wondering, what is the best way to recover these images are in post-processing?

My question is similar to this question about fixing blown-out highlights; however, I'm interested more in things I can do to improve the entire image quality -- so this might include things like better color balance, ways to make the subject look less flat, etc.

I'm interested particularly in answers that use tricks or techniques that aren't necessarily "obvious", but might be considered "tricks of the trade" by professional photographers (I assume they have to deal with this problem sometimes, too?) -- I have both Lightroom and CS5, and am reasonably proficient with their basic use, but I know I'm probably just scratching the surface of their power. So nothing's off-limits for this answer -- if you have a solution, but it requires 20 layers and 15 different brushes, I'm all ears!

Edited to add: Note that I'm asking about photos that I've already taken, so any preprocessing tips are not helpful to me. Additionally, I do have a bounce flash, but there are certain settings in which it's not useful (if, say, there's nothing to bounce off of!), and the only way to get any light into the frame is direct hard light. My question is about how to make the best of these less-than-ideal shooting conditions in post-processing.

Asked by David

Answer

Here are a few ways I have fixed washed-out photos be it from the flash or just in general.

  • Adjust levels - I will slide the black slider to the right to darken the photo. Sometimes if only part of the photo is washed out I will use a mask on the levels to darken only what I want to. This masking can get complicated and I recommend looking up some tutorials.

  • Curves is another tool I have used but can be a bit tricky.

  • High Pass Filter to bring details into the image and sometimes helps the washed out look. For a tutorial on the high pass filter check here.

  • Shooting in RAW and adjusting the sliders sometimes is all that is needed

  • Burn to image to darken where needed. You can do this in Photoshop non-destructively by creating a new layer, filling the layer with 50% Gray (Hex is #808080) then change that layers Blend Mode to Overlay, Then Burn on that layer (Dodge will also work on the same layer)

  • Create a black layer and change the blend modes to soft light.

  • Duplicate photo and change blend modes to see what helps darken the photo. Again advanced masking is sometimes involved and experimentation is required to see if this will work for your photo and what blend mode will work.

  • Use a plugin like Topaz Adjust to change the photo.

  • PS Photo Filters can help.

  • I will sometimes use a combo of the above.

  • The biggest trick is experimentation with filters, settings, etc in PS to see what happens. But always remember...HAVE FUN! =>

These are all done in Photoshop CS5/CS6. I do not have any examples I can currently post or I would.

I hope some of these help!

Answered by Lynda

Wednesday, May 2, 2012

What are some techniques for hand-held image stabilization?

Question

My zoom lens (75-300mm) is fairly slow: 5.6 at its farthest point. (I think it's 3.5-5.6, and it's not image stabilizing. I'm on a budget, sadly!) Unfortunately, my primary use for it is hand-held shots: sporting events, etc., where a tripod or even monopod isn't viable.

Add to the mix that I have shaky hands, and because what I'm usually shooting with it is in motion, I'm using the AI Servo auto-focus motor.

What are some techniques I can use to improve the quality (specifically sharpness and focus) of shots I take with this lens, when hand-held? (More generally, what are some techniques all of us can use to improve image quality and sharpness when shooting hand-held?)

If it helps any, I'm using a Canon XTi body.

Asked by John Rudy

Answer

  1. Increase your ISO as far as you can go without losing too much quality (to get a shutter speed as close as possible to the 1/focal length rule).
  2. Practice and use a stable shooting position like one of these to help steady the camera: http://blog.muddyboots.org/2009/04/avoiding-blur-due-to-camera-shake.html
  3. Slowly and smoothly press the shutter button, don't jab it. Most people move the camera more than they realize when pressing the button -it helps to practice this beforehand as well.
  4. Breathe out slowly while you take the photo (don't hold your breath).
  5. Try putting your camera in burst mode. If you jab the shutter button, you'll find that when you use burst and hold the shutter down, the 2nd or 3rd shot will come out sharper than your 1st one.
Answered by Erica Marshall

Saturday, March 31, 2012

Does reducing JPG resolution decrease, increase, or have no effect on image quality?

Question

I'm getting ready to download a bunch of images from Dreamstime. I'll eventually want most of the images in the 400x300 pixel range for my website when I'm done working with them. Dreamstime offers various resolutions to download images in- 1000x750, 2000x1500, 4000x3000, etc. I'm used to printing, where you want to get the largest images possible because that translates into higher quality prints.

I've searched around on Google and Stack Exchange and I can't figure out the answer to this question: Is there a loss in quality if I choose the 4000x3000 images and reduce them to 400x300 in Photoshop? Is the quality loss greater or less than if I reduced the 1000x750 image to 400x300?

Thanks Stack Exchange!

Asked by Jack T

Answer

Bear with me for a second here for some background....

When you downsample a 4000×3000 image to 400×300, you are "discarding" 11.9 million of the 12 million pixels. This clearly reduces "image quality", depending on what exactly you mean by that term.

If you go from 1000×750 to 400×300, you're reducing the area by about 6 times. Again, data is discarded, but not as much.

Now, if your original image had a lot of defects — noise, aberrations, and focus error — the resolution may exceed the "effective image quality", and the extra detail is contributing nothing. In that case, downsampling to some degree doesn't "really" reduce image quality. This is very dependent on the actual original, though — and in any case, going all the way down to a basically-thumbnail-sized 400×300 is pretty drastic.

Hopefully that's all pretty obvious. With that out of the way... In this case, since 400×300 images are your target, the question is really "is there any value in having larger images and downsizing them myself rather than having the stock photo agency do it for me."

The answer to that is: maybe.

  1. It's possible that the agency uses poor downsampling and sharpening algorithms for the smaller choices. Or they may use perfectly good algorithms that have the wrong parameters for your taste — for example, too much sharpening. By picking a bigger version and downsampling yourself in Adobe Photoshop or dedicated scaling software, you might be able to do a better job, and tailor the results for your artistic needs and desires.

  2. Starting from bigger pixel dimensions allows you more flexibility, since you can crop and still have room left over. You could decide that just the corner or the center of an image fits your use better, and crop out a 400×300 section rather than downscaling.

  3. Likewise, if you're doing other manipulation on the image, to change color or make a montage from multiple images, having some extra data to work with at that stage won't hurt (although beware of spending too much time getting detail right when it's just going to get scaled out of perception in the end).

Ultimately, the answer will depend on your particular situation and how it relates to these factors, but hopefully this will give you a way to make that decision.

Answered by mattdm

Sunday, March 25, 2012

Pentax K-5: Is it worth using the Premium JPEG quality setting?

Question

Similar: How do I choose which resolution (megapixel) and compression (normal, fine, superfine) to shoot in?

The Pentax K-5 has a JPEG quality setting called "Premium", denoted by four stars, which is not available in entry-level Pentax cameras. This setting extends beyond the "Best" (three stars) setting in my K-r which already offers very good image quality. Is there a significant advantage in using this setting, or is this not worth the larger file sizes (which can easily exceed 10 MB)? Should I choose RAW instead?

Asked by DragonLord

Answer

I default to the three-star setting (out of four), but I always use RAW + JPEG so I can revisit the choice, because there are situations where yes, it makes a difference. Particularly, when there is strong contrast across color channels, like a tree with red leaves or flowers against a blue sky, JPEG compression artifacts can be surprising visible with the three-star setting.

For most cases, you won't be able to discern a difference in double-blind testing, but in the times when it's needed, it's nice to have.

And, if I get a shot I know is a keeper, I often go back in-camera and do a careful RAW conversion, tuning the white-balance and tone curve as well as saving in the top-quality JPEG. I don't mind paying the space price for my top few images, even if the image quality difference is imperceptible. This isn't as powerful or flexible as PC-based conversion, but I can do it on the subway or whereever and then use it instantly (rather than joining the backlog of hobby to-dos). If an all-RAW workflow is more your style, that's also a totally legitimate choice, and makes this meaningless — but if your approach is more like mine, it's a nice thing.

Answered by mattdm

Wednesday, March 7, 2012

What feature or technical info to look for in a smartphone camera for good compression?

Question

from What is the difference between image size and image quality?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image_compression

Answer

I wouldn't worry about compression in smartphones. I'm not familiar with any popular smartphone that actually takes photos in the RAW format, so the rest of them actually shoot in standard JPG. Apparently some smartphones do have a RAW format, but this isn't very standard.

JPEG/JPG is a lossy format, but it is the most common image format of today, and widely used. Other formats do exist such as JPEG 2000, but because they are not supported by modern web browsers, they are not popular or used widely.

What I would recommend looking for is the image sensor size, aperture, and ISO capabilities of the camera.

Answered by dpollitt

How does viewing distance affect print quality?

Question

Random facts: For those that assume you can enlarge a photo past the original size while preserving quality -- you cannot.

Answer

No. Photo editing software cannot recover image detail that is not there in the image originally captured at the scene by your camera. So, enlarging the photo to a very large size will eventually reveal a lack of detail.

Apparent print quality depends a lot on the combination of print size and viewing distance. If you take your photo, print it A2-size and view it from 10m, it will look good. If you walk up to it and view it from 0.2m, it will look worse. No matter what the resolution of the photo, pretty much.

To state this again differently, printing the photo larger will always generate a worse looking photo, unless you also increase the viewing distance.

For standard viewing distances, around an arm's length perhaps, many people find around 300dpi sufficient. Meaning, if the image is 1" x 1", it needs to be 300 pixels per side. If you double the distance, you can halve the number of dpi you need. If you double the image size, you will need double the number of pixels per side for similar quality.

The camera I use most produces images at 4288*2844. At 300dpi, I can produce a print as large as 14" * 9.5" before I start to notice falloff in quality at normal viewing distances (that is, 4288 / 300 = 14.293333... which I rounded to 14 inches).

There are image editing plugins (for Photoshop for example) that help you resize a photo with good subjective quality by inventing image detail that really wasn't in the original photograph, but looks believable, and doing things like Anti-Aliasing to reduce the incongruous appearance of the magnified pixels. Alien Skin Blow Up 3 is an example, but I have never used it.

Answered by James Youngman

Do megapixels matter with modern sensor technology?

Question

Are more megapixels good?

Are more megapixels bad?

Do more megapixels increase detail? Do they make my images sharper? On the other side, is there a point that is too much? Do megapixels cause increased noise and other problems? How does print and viewing size come into it?

Widespread Internet-forum wisdom used to be that 6 megapixels was the sweet spot — below that just wasn't enough, but above that, there wasn't much benefit. File sizes got larger, but detail was lost to noise and other problems. The arguments are that cramming too many pixels into a small sensor makes each pixel too small to provide any real benefit, and that higher-megapixel sensors outresolve cheap lenses anyway. (Substitute something like 12 instead of 6 if we're discussing APS-C DSLRs.)

This year, pretty much every camera introduced is in the range of 12-18 megapixels. Does this offer any real improvement over that old "sweet spot"? Has technology improved to the point where the "wisdom" needs to be updated, or are we all suffering for marketing? Or have we gone past the sweet spot in some ways, but it's okay because of previously-un-argued points. (For example: more noise, sure, but more detail as well.)

Within the 12-18 megapixel common-today range, for the same sensor size, is there any actual benefit to the higher end? (We've got a question on that specifically, but it attracted very literal replies — I'm looking for why and how.) How do megapixels directly affect image quality with today's technology? What are the benefits and when do they apply? What are the drawbacks, and when do they apply? How should I adjust my technique (and expectations) based on my camera's megapixel count?

Asked by mattdm

Answer

From a purely theoretical point of view: more megapixels good.

People often talk about how high megapixel sensors were now outresolving most lenses, thus there was no point going higher unless using the very best glass. This is not always true. System resolution is the product of lens resolution and sensor resolution. Thus if you improve one, your system resolution will improve regardless of the other. You do eventually get into diminishing returns, but from a theoretical viewpoint a sensor can't outresolve a lens until diffraction effects take over).

Theoretically for a fixed final output size noise is independent of sensor resolution. Yes smaller pixels capture less light, therefore the per pixel noise level is higher. But if you resize a high megapixel image to match a lower one, you average pixel values thus noise is evened out. People regularly complain about noisy high megapixel compacts when viewing images at 100%. But that's a totally unfair comparison.


From a practical point of view: more megapixels not bad

From a practical view the noise situation is more complicated, but evidence I've seen suggests that high MP sensors are not much noisier when compared at the same image size (see above). I'll look up some links.

The situation on resolution is complicated by the fact [most] sensors don't see in colour and thus have a bayer grid which requires an anti aliasing filter. Aliasing is worst when the sampling frequency matches your signal (i.e. image detail) frequency. Increasing the megapixel count faster than increases in signal frequency should improve aliasing, to the point where the traditional aliasing filter can be removed.

There are other practical issues which relate to your ability to extract extra detail from your sensor:

  • The 1/focal length rule no longer applies as you increase megapixels, you need ever increasing stabilisation, and also increasing shutter speeds as subject motion becomes more apparent.

  • Diffraction becomes more of a problem as you increase megapixels as the pixels become smaller than the Airy disk.

  • Data processing and storage requirements are higher.

It's worth emphasising that these are not disadvantages of higher megapixel counts, since you can always downsize your images, and you're not lost anything when compared to a lower megapixel count camera. The exception being in camera data processing, since the camera has to read the whole sensor when shooting stills and somehow process this information.


So how high can you go? I've seen calculations of the diffraction limiting aperture for red light with a 350 megapixel full frame sensor being f/2.8 (green and blue light requiring even larger apertures) so that gives you an idea. Personally I think your returns would get small past a 50 megapixel 35mm sensor, up to a maximum of maybe 75-100. Once you get noticeable diffraction at f/5.6 people are going to become disinterested, and once you have to open up to f/2.8 with a lens that's razor sharp at f/2.8, the megapixel race is over.

Larger formats allow more megapixels before diffraction sets in (at a given f/stop) however depth of field is shallower at the same f/stop, requiring you to stop down more for depth of field, so there appears to be no intrinsic advantage when it comes to diffraction.

The existence of 60 megapixel medium format camera points to the fact it would be possible, diffraction wise, given good enough glass. Though as users of such cameras point out how difficult it is to utilise 60MP this points to it being a good practical limit, if not a theoretical one.

Answered by Matt Grum

Tuesday, March 6, 2012

How many megapixels are needed on a smartphone to take above quality photos?

Question

Just regular above quality photos for Facebook and normal things.

Answer

Facebook images are usually displayed at around 720×540 pixels. That is about one third of a megapixel, so for that use, anything you can buy is overkill in terms of megapixels. This is perfectly fine for almost all online display, and will even make decent small-sized prints.

However, megapixels do not accurately represent image quality. The answers to Why do some DSLRs have fewer megapixels than some pocket cameras? provide some of the explanation as to why. You can't really use that as a way to make your decision.

Answered by mattdm

Saturday, February 25, 2012

How does a glare arise in images?

Question

I know am sounding dumb but i have not been able to find a correct definition of glare

What are the reasons it props up into images For example am taking a photograph of a fruit in diffuse light :

enter image description here

What is this glare due to and how do i avoid it?

Asked by vini

Answer

Glare as you put it is more formally known as a specular reflection. This occurs when you have smooth objects where all the light bounces off in the same direction. This contrasts with rough objects which due to fragments of the surface pointing in different directions, reflects light in different directions.

Most objects like your apple produce both specular and diffuse reflections. Specular reflected light is often partially polarized in the process so you can reduce it with a polarizing filter. Alternatively you can arrange your lights so that the reflected light doesn't hit the camera.

Answered by Matt Grum

Thursday, February 23, 2012

Are there any important considerations for stock photos?

Question

I have quite a few photos, some of which I consider to be particularly good. I've been thinking of putting some up on stock photo sites (that's another discussion), but have been wondering about image quality.

Are there any important aspects a photo should have before being put up on a stock site? I'm thinking of subject, composition, colour, and clarity, but what else?

Asked by Grant Palin

Answer

One thing that's not technical but more subjective is how "sellable" the image is. The world has so many photos of sunsets, women sitting at desks on the phone, and nice forest landscapes that you will want to choose subjects that are something a little different in order to stand out amongst the crowd.

Yes, technical correctness will be needed, but to really get noticed on a stock site (and in some cases, to get accepted) you need images that are timely and can't be found in hundreds of other locations.

Answered by ahockley

Saturday, February 11, 2012

What is the meaning of these Photodune reasons for rejection?

Question

I wanted some advice, I am new to photography, I posted an image on Photodune for sale and it was rejected because of:

  • Element or framing composition
  • Noise, exposure, lighting or saturation
  • Chromatic aberration, moiré pattern or other image quality issues

This is the photo in question.

enter image description here

Answer

I see five things wrong. Three are compositional:

  • The bowl should be centered vertically (its horizontal placement is good), with room enough to bleed the image and still have the whole bowl showing. Your margin at the top is good, but the bowl touches the bottom, is partially cut off (by about four pixels) and there's no room to print the image full-bleed. That means it has very limited editorial usefulness.

  • The counter/table should extend all the way to the bottom of the picture. Having the bowl hanging over the edge means that there's a black void at the bottom, and that's not nearly as attractive as having the granite texture extend throughout the picture. The edge of the granite is also not square with the edge of the frame, and even if you had included the blackness on purpose, it is absolutely essential that graphic elements are placed deliberately -- either keep them straight or make them leading lines.

  • Similarly, the upper chopstick just misses being a proper diagonal leading line. If it had hit the exact corner of the frame, it would have been a great element, but it just misses the mark. You have to get these things bang on, and sometimes that means creating a series of very similar images that work properly at different crops. Make yourself familiar with the proportions of full-page, page-and-a-half and double-truck layouts in trade magazines -- those proportions will make a difference to your sales.

The fourth problem is noise -- it's very noticeable in the midtones in the upper interior of the bowl. The textures everywhere else make the noise invisible, but when you have an area of flat colour (or a smooth gradient) with little or no texture, noise stands out like a sore thumb. De-noising the image isn't optional.

Finally, there are artifacts from sharpening, especially along the upper edge of the chopsticks and the upper-left edge of the bowl. That may register to some as lateral chromatic aberration, but it looks a whole lot more like an unsharp masking artifact to me -- those particular edges were already prominent, and trying to force them created a one-pixel outline.

Both of those last two can be fixed. You may not want to change the process for the entire image, but that's why we have layers and layer masks. For instance, running a noise filter over the entire image may add to the minor depth-of-field problem at the top of the noodles and make the granite look like a granite-printed laminate. So run the filter against a copy of the image on a new layer, then mask out everything except the bowl.

The same thing goes with the sharpening -- the rest of the image may need it, but you ought to mask it out where it's creating artifacts, or at least sharpen that area of the picture to a much lesser degree.

I don't see any problems with your overall exposure or saturation, by the way -- the only things clipping are specular highlights, and they're supposed to do that.

The stock market is hard, and excellence is the entry level. There's no room at all for "okay", "good enough" or even merely "really good". Real sales start at "spectacular", and that means getting absolutely everything right to begin with before you add your special sauce.

Answered by Stan Rogers

Sunday, January 15, 2012

How does the megapixel-count and the aperture size affect the quality of the image from a given lens?

Question

I have read that some lenses don't "support" high resolutions, so, for example, for some lenses (e.g. Nikkor 16-85 VR ), it's better to shoot at 9MP, instead of shooting at 16MP.

Is this the case and if it is what is the reason for it? What does "better" mean in this instance? A sharper image? Less noise?

I've also heard that closing the aperture allows you to increase the MP-count and get the same image quality? (So a bigger f-number with more megapixels gives the same quality image as a smaller f-number and fewer megapixels)

I'd be glad to read some more detailed (technical) information about this.

Answer

The lens is in front of the sensor, so the sensor cannot get any more details than the lens lets through. That is why if your lens is of poor quality, your images appear blurry.

Now, it is never better to shoot at a lower resolution because the lens resolves a fixed amount of details in a given state (focal-length, aperture and focus-distance). At worst, you will have exactly the same amount of details, just sampled at a lower resolution. When viewed at 100%, it will look less blurry, yes, but you would not be comparing the same image size. Now, you can decide to save memory and bandwidth if you only need smaller images and that is OK.

The higher the resolution of your camera, the more demanding it is of lenses in order to take advantage of the full resolution. You will often see this comment DPReview's review conclusions.

Given that sharpness of a lens is very depending on all its settings and even spatially variant (corners are rarely as sharp so the center), I would not recommend lowering the resolution. In general, a lens gets sharper as the aperture is stopped down, up to its maximum sharpness and then sharpness gets reduced when the diffraction limit is hit. How much very much depends on the lens. High quality lenses for example may be only a tiny bit softer wide-open while low quality lenses can become extremely blurry. So, if your photos are too soft, you can try to stop down, usually 2 stops from the maximum is the rule of thumb.

Saturday, January 14, 2012

What does the megapixels (of the sensor, for D-SLR) and the aperture opening has to do with lens (affecting the image quality)?

Question

I have read, that some lens does not "support" big resolution (I don't even know if this is the right way explain what I mean).

For example, for some lens ( ex. Nikkor 16-85 VR ), it's better to shoot at 9MP, instead of shooting at 16MP.

Is there such thing and if so - what is the reason for this? And what does this "better" mean? Sharper image? Less noise?

And how, closing the aperture, allow you to increase the MP (to 16MP, for example), and getting the same image quality? (I mean: smaller aperture opening + more MP == larger aperture opening + less MP ? )

I'd be glad to read some more detailed (technical) information about this. Thanks!

Answer

The lens is in front of the sensor, so the sensor cannot get any more details than the lens lets through. That is why if your lens is of poor quality, your images appear blurry.

Now, it is never better to shoot at a lower resolution because the lens resolves a fixed amount of details in a given state (focal-length, aperture and focus-distance). At worst, you will have exactly the same amount of details, just sampled at a lower resolution. When viewed at 100%, it will look less blurry, yes, but you would not be comparing the same image size. Now, you can decide to save memory and bandwidth if you only need smaller images and that is OK.

The higher the resolution of your camera, the more demanding it is of lenses in order to take advantage of the full resolution. You will often see this comment DPReview's review conclusions.

Given that sharpness of a lens is very depending on all its settings and even spatially variant (corners are rarely as sharp so the center), I would not recommend lowering the resolution. In general, a lens gets sharper as the aperture is stopped down, up to its maximum sharpness and then sharpness gets reduced when the diffraction limit is hit. How much very much depends on the lens. High quality lenses for example may be only a tiny bit softer wide-open while low quality lenses can become extremely blurry. So, if your photos are too soft, you can try to stop down, usually 2 stops from the maximum is the rule of thumb.

How to improve quality of pictures that are already taken (if possible in GIMP)?

Question

I'm not a photographer but a graphic designer.

In GIMP, I only discovered two methods of improving the quality of an photo:

Filters > Enhance > Unsharp MaskNoise > HSV Noise

Basically, I would like to remove some blurriness and 'fake' high resolution, if possible (I don't mind adding some noise).

I like this final result: http://www.blog.spoongraphics.co.uk/about (the guy in the picture).

Any other suggestions?

Answer

There are many ways to improve an image, and sharpening and noise reduction are just the very start. These techniques are almost completely program-agnostic, and can be done using a variety of different tools, Gimp included.

In photography, this is a major portion of the work that is done, and has become known as "Post Processing" or simply "Post".

Post-Processing Techniques:

Basics

  • Cropping
  • sharpening
  • white balance correction
  • Contrast enhancement
  • spot touchups/dust removal

Advanced

  • noise reduction
  • cross-processing
  • halftone/duotone
  • HDR

These lists are by no means exhaustive, but merely show a few of the more common techniques.

There are quite a few tutorials around that may be helpful for you.

Friday, January 13, 2012

Export options for printing with Aperture 3

Question

I am about to get my pictures published in a magazine. I am going send the pictures to the publisher, thus not printing them myself. Therefore I am curious about how to export the pictures appropriately from Aperture 3. I know how to export from Aperture. Also I have tried to edit the export settings and trying to figure out how these should be set. I noticed that it is possible to set the DPI when exporting.

What are the appropriate export settings for Aperture 3 when using the pictures for print?

  • What should the DPI be set to?
  • Which colorspace should be used?
  • Which file format? TIFF?

Answer

I had to do this once, and I sent the people .TIFF files.

DPI is largely irrelevant for you as you are not printing it. You're dealing with Pixels, not dots at your stage. (ie. not printing). You just want to send the file at 100% original size. However many X and Y pixels that is.

Color space is subjective - I use sRGB, which is better for screen viewing as I understand it. I think Adobe color space is more for printing, but I could be wrong. I won't advise you on that personally but you could always ask your magazine contact which they prefer?

By the way -- congratulations on getting your photos printed!! It's a good feeling isn't it :-)

Tuesday, January 3, 2012

Is there an IQ gain from Canon's 18-135 to 24-105L?

Question

Just got a Canon 40D body, and was about to get Canon's 24-105L lens. I hear people raving about the lens, and it all made sense until I saw a Cameralabs' review of the lens.

So don’t buy the EF 24-105mm expecting an upgrade in optical quality alone or you may be disappointed. Where this lens really scores over general-purpose EF-S lenses is in terms of build and mechanical quality ...

Now I'm contemplating getting a 18-135 for a 3rd of the price.

I'd be interested to hear from somebody who had some experience with the lenses, and not just read some reviews (like I did).

Answer

I have a 24-105 L and it is an excellent lens. The build quality is superb which makes it heavy but the L series lenses become an asset as a result of their build - it will last.

The image quality is also excellent. Check out the digital picture review linked to above. Whilst Andy says some will say he is bias (for a long time I think he has only reviewed Canon gear) - the bias is somewhat irrelevant when you're comparing Canon to Canon.

The 18-135 covers a longer range, typically this isn't a good thing IQ wise in zoom lenses (with some exceptions). I haven't used this lens though.

Check out this link which contains comparison images of a lens test chart with both lenses. Set the focal lengths and apertures to comparable values. To me, at a quick comparison, the 24-105 looks to have significantly improved IQ:

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=355&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=0&API=0&LensComp=678&CameraComp=474&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=1&APIComp=0

My advice? Invest in the best quality lenses you can afford to. If you buy L or at least don't buy EF-S, they will last forever and transcend any bodies you own be they cropped or full frame.

Friday, December 23, 2011

If I'm happy with the speed, do I really need a faster class 10 or 30MB/s card for my DSLR?

Question

My camera came with 4GB class 10, 30 MB/sec card. I wanted to upgrade to high capacity memory card but I was skeptical, a lower speed card such as class 10, 20MB/sec will cripple my camera when I use it at its highest setting. I checked reviews online for super fast cards. I found this review quite useful. When I did the same test on my camera, I would notice it would stop in the middle (quite long pauses) and I really did not get the full 4 f/s picture that my camera is capable of.

Recently I went to NYC and used up all the memory of my 4GB card in one day so I got worried, I need a high capacity card esp because I want to shoot in raw. Instead of buying an new fast card first, I tried my 16 GB, class 2, micro SD card from my phone and put it test :)

It could shoot continuously (with no delay) at 2 or 2.2 f/s.This was in RAW format. I was actually very happy with that! I thought it would just totally cripple my camera. I did video test too on High Quality, 25 fps and it came out good, no jerks. So I am really happy that I can use my 16 GB class 2 card in my camera.

My question is, am I missing something? Do we really need a 30MB/sec card for the DSLR? Will the photo and video quality be the same with both the cards?

One thing I noticed with class 2 card is that browsing in camera was slow (noticeably slow), but as long as the camera captures the moments right, I am happy with it. Am I missing anything?

This question is more intended to ward, is it kind of myth that you have to use 30MB/sec card?

enter image description here

Answer

This other question covers how to figure out what speed you really need. But to answer the other part of what you are asking: No, card speed does not affect image quality in any way. The image files are digital, and it's not like analog cassette tapes where the composition of the media can make a difference. The only case image quality could be affected is when the slower speed forces you to choose a lower-quality setting in order to make smaller files. But that's a choice you'd make intentionally.