Is it normal for the LCD screen of D3100 to sometimes show moving horizontal lines?

Question

Yesterday I noticed horizontal upwards moving lines on the LCD screen on the D3100 when I was using live view.

It doesn't happen always, is this normal?

Asked by Anisha Kaul

Answer

It's completely normal under artificial lighting, when frame rate of your camera matches closely flickering rate of the light source (usually determined by frequency of electrical network). If the electricity frequency is n times higher, there will be n lines on screen.

When the frequency matches exactly, dark/bright phases of light flickering will always fall during time when camera reads the same row of pixels and those rows will seem darker/brighter. Now, if the frequency match is not close, but only approximate, a cycle may fall on a neighbor row compared to the preceding cycle those darker/brighter lines will appear to be moving. This is not a camera defect, just a result of two engineering solutions (in light source and video capture) using frequencies invisible to human eye becoming visible when used together.

Answered by Imre

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What are the pros and cons of an articulated display?

Question

In my opinion an articulated display (one that rotates to allow viewing at different angles) is a big advantage for a modern camera. But I see that most professional and/or more expensive cameras do not offer it.

An articulated display is a long-time standard feature for all video camcorders, yet most modern DSLRs with video capabilities offer no such feature.

What is the reason for not making the articulated display a 'standard" feature on any high-end camera?

Asked by sasha

Answer

Articulated displays are just another moving part that is not typically necessary on pro grade equipment. Adding a screen like that will likely increase the size of the camera, and also make the screen more vulnerable to damage and wear.

Some pro series cameras also now have options for external LCD screens that can be attached to the body. Many videographers use these.

The main advantage to me, is to use the camera from odd angles. If for example you were at a concert and wanted to capture an image of the band, but you were short - you can use the articulating screen to still see what you are capturing. The same goes for objects down low.

Finally, I personally rarely use my LCD screen for image capture, I am much more inclined to use the viewfinder if the camera has one.

Answered by dpollitt

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Is there a way to force the Nikon D40's rear LCD panel to stay off?

Question

Is there an off/disable control anywhere? I realize that the INFO button toggles it off, but it comes right back on as soon as you tap the shutter, and that it a problem in low light situations where the LCD keeps blasting me in the eye.

Asked by Chris Noe

Answer

So, the answer to this is "no", there isn't. You can disable it in some circumstances, but as you've seen, it will keep coming back on. The user interface of many entry-level DSLRs is designed around the rear LCD screen, and these cameras also generally don't offer a huge amount of customization. This is also the case on the D3100, which is roughly a successor to the D40, and the slightly-higher D5100 model.

The D7000, though, has a small LCD status display on the top of the camera as well (as do mid-range cameras from other companies). Since that provides alternate access to key information, the software isn't as over-excited about turning on the rear LCD as it is on the lower models.

Answered by mattdm

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How to more easily view the rear LCD?

Question

I was at work today and went for lunch, there was a professional photographer in kitchen using the following set up

Canon 5d tripod Canon tilt shift lens (not sure on the specifics)

The photographers was using live view to take his shots and kept placing a eye piece over the lcd live view finder. What is this peripheral called and where can I get one?

Thanks!

Asked by David

Answer

Those are LCD viewfinders. You can find a huge variety of prices and shapes, but they're all basically just a box to block light and make it easier for you to see the LCD screen without any reflections getting in the way.

Answered by Dan Wolfgang

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How can I make playback zoom start in small steps rather than going to 1:1 with Magic Lantern?

Question

I just got a brand spanking new Canon 60D with the Magic Lantern custom firmware, and I love it except for one thing: when you are looking at the images you have taken, and you press the zoom button, it zooms in as far as possible. I assume this is probably 1:1.

When I press the zoom button, how can I get it to zoom to the least amount? I have looked in the manual and I can't find anything.

Answer

I’ve never experienced this problem with a 60D. The default behaviour (and the only behaviour I could see mentioned in the manual (page 196) is the exact opposite of what you are experiencing. A single press of the magnify button zooms in one step at a time until it reaches maximum zoom.

Some possible things to try:

• When you’re using liveview mode with manual focus, does the magnify button behave as expected?
• Is the magnify button a bit sticky (so being held down for too long when pressed)?
• You could also try resetting all of the camera settings to their defaults, which is available from one of the tools menus (page 51 of the manual). Note, I haven’t done this but it may also reset things like the current file number for pictures so I’d advise doing it with an empty memory card.

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How can I make playback zoom start in small steps rather than going to 1:1?

Question

I just got a brand spanking new 60D and I love except one thing: when you are looking at the images you have taken, and you press the zoom button, it zooms in as far as possible. I assume this is probably 1:1.

When I press the zoom button, how can I get it to zoom to the least amount? I have looked in the manual and I can't find anything.

Answer

I’ve never experienced this problem with a 60D. The default behaviour (and the only behaviour I could see mentioned in the manual (page 196) is the exact opposite of what you are experiencing. A single press of the magnify button zooms in one step at a time until it reaches maximum zoom.

Some possible things to try:

• When you’re using liveview mode with manual focus, does the magnify button behave as expected?
• Is the magnify button a bit sticky (so being held down for too long when pressed)?
• You could also try resetting all of the camera settings to their defaults, which is available from one of the tools menus (page 51 of the manual). Note, I haven’t done this but it may also reset things like the current file number for pictures so I’d advise doing it with an empty memory card.

Check more discussion of this question.

Are there advantages to using a viewfinder for focusing instead of using a camera's rear LCD screen?

Question

Are there any particular advantages to using the viewfinder for focusing instead of the LCD?

Answer

In general there are the following advantages of manual focussing via the optical viewfinder instead of the LCD:

• The viewfinder image is almost certainly sharper than the LCD, when viewing the entire image. This makes it easier to judge when something is in focus for the times when you need to be able to see the whole image at once (e.g. for a scene that may change without warning)

• The viewfinder image updates in realtime whereas the LCD has a small lag due to the need to read and process the sensor image, as well as the finite refresh rate of the LCD screen. This could have affect focusing speed as you can turn the focus ring faster using the viewfinder as you can see the changes in focus more immediately.

• A viewfinder is easier to use in direct sunlight (though you can get a loupe/shades that make LCD viewing easier).

• Viewfinders in SLRs have the option of using a split prism focussing screen which allows easy manual focussing on subjects with sufficient detail.

• DSLRs with live view limit the amount of time you can view the image live on the LCD as it can heat up the sensor. The time is quite long, however for all day shoots in hot conditions sensor overheating may be become a disadvantage of using the LCD screen compared to the viewfinder.

• Similarly the shutter is open the whole time you are using the LCD so if you inadvertently point the camera at the sun (or worse put the camera down pointing at the sun) you can damage the sensor.

There are also many advantages of using the LCD instead of the viewfinder to manually focus:

• The flipside of the last point, if you point the camera at the sun using the LCD you'll only damage the camera, not your eyes!

• If you don't need to monitor the whole image you can zoom the LCD image into the area of interest to see more detail than you can through the viewfinder.

• The LCD image you see is always has the exact DOF you will get in the final image if you focus stopped down. Most laser etched focus screens in SLRs cut of light after about f/2.5 meaning the DOF will appear greater in the viewfinder when using fast lenses wide open.

• For compact cameras with optical viewfinders there is a paralax error meaning you see a slightly different image than you capture. Again DOF may be different. The LCD shows you the correct image.

• Most SLR viewfinders only cover 95% of the image. If for some reason you need to focus on the extreme edges you need to use the LCD screen.

• The LCD screen is more visible in the dark due to the ability to brighten the picture by increasing ISO.

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Are there advantagers to using a viewfinder for focusing instead of using a camera's rear LCD screen?

Question

Are there any particular advantages to using the viewfinder for focussing instead of the LCD?

Answer

In general there are the following advantages of manual focussing via the optical viewfinder instead of the LCD:

• The viewfinder image is almost certainly sharper than the LCD, when viewing the entire image. This makes it easier to judge when something is in focus for the times when you need to be able to see the whole image at once (e.g. for a scene that may change without warning)

• The viewfinder image updates in realtime whereas the LCD has a small lag due to the need to read and process the sensor image, as well as the finite refresh rate of the LCD screen. This could have affect focusing speed as you can turn the focus ring faster using the viewfinder as you can see the changes in focus more immediately.

• A viewfinder is easier to use in direct sunlight (though you can get a loupe/shades that make LCD viewing easier).

• Viewfinders in SLRs have the option of using a split prism focussing screen which allows easy manual focussing on subjects with sufficient detail.

• DSLRs with live view limit the amount of time you can view the image live on the LCD as it can heat up the sensor. The time is quite long, however for all day shoots in hot conditions sensor overheating may be become a disadvantage of using the LCD screen compared to the viewfinder.

• Similarly the shutter is open the whole time you are using the LCD so if you inadvertently point the camera at the sun (or worse put the camera down pointing at the sun) you can damage the sensor.

There are also many advantages of using the LCD instead of the viewfinder to manually focus:

• The flipside of the last point, if you point the camera at the sun using the LCD you'll only damage the camera, not your eyes!

• If you don't need to monitor the whole image you can zoom the LCD image into the area of interest to see more detail than you can through the viewfinder.

• The LCD image you see is always has the exact DOF you will get in the final image if you focus stopped down. Most laser etched focus screens in SLRs cut of light after about f/2.5 meaning the DOF will appear greater in the viewfinder when using fast lenses wide open.

• For compact cameras with optical viewfinders there is a paralax error meaning you see a slightly different image than you capture. Again DOF may be different. The LCD shows you the correct image.

• Most SLR viewfinders only cover 95% of the image. If for some reason you need to focus on the extreme edges you need to use the LCD screen.

• The LCD screen is more visible in the dark due to the ability to brighten the picture by increasing ISO.

Check more discussion of this question.

What do I do with a cracked screen?

Question

I just cracked the screen on my out-of-warranty Canon EOS T2i. It just happened to fall right onto a corner of the foot of a table.

The glass cover for the screen is smashed, but the LCD is still intact.

Since the camera is out of warranty and I'm feeling adventurous, can anyone recommend a place where I could order such a part? All the Googling I did yielded only screen protectors.

Possibly a side question, but are there any screen protectors that could prevent screen cracking? I could just go out and buy something that looks nice, but I think advice from actual users might be more valuable.

Any advice would be appreciated!

Answer

You can get the replacement part directly from Canon for about $30-40 USD. It doesn't seem like an overly complicated replacement either, you just have to be a bit DIY to get the job done without throwing your camera across the room.

I found a tutorial on how to do it for a 5DMK II here.

Once you do replace the cracked protector, I would recommend a Giottos LCD screen protector.

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How to protect my camera's rear lcd?

Question

I searched a bit and found two main types of protections: plastic and glass. Plastic is a lot cheaper but a lot of people complain about bubbles, dust, and low adherence. The glass ones seem to be better but are more expensive.

Which one do you advise? Do you use any of these solutions? My biggest concern is the "glue" residues that eventually some of them might leave.

Answer

I have used both glass and plastic. Giottos (glass) and BestSkinsEver (plastic). Bottomline, the glass is by far the best looking in terms of optical quality. Glare is the same as the LCD itself. However, it is relatively expensive, and the tape that is used is just around the outside, so if it is not done properly or evenly, dust will get in. Being glass, it will scratch, but at least it is disposable. But scratches on a $30 cover can make you just as angry.

FWIW, the LCD already has a protective glass cover that is replaceable. However, I do not think it is replaceable by consumers, and must be sent to your camera maker. Just know that there is already glass covering the LCD.

The plastic does not have the same clarity, but unless you are pixel peeping on the LCD, you won't notice. Glare is gone completely. The clarity depends on the care with which it is applied: it must be very clean and smoothed over well. The plastic does not scratch, and at around $6, its easy to replace. The 'glue' is over the whole surface though some use attach via static or hydrostatic methods (no glue). I have the plastic on my smartphone, iPad and 40D LCD and have been happy. It removes easily, though you can not reuse the plastic if you remove it, as it stretches in removing it.

My recommendation: get the plastic, give it a try. If you hate the clarity, go for the glass.

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How to protect the rear camera's lcd?

Question

I searched a bit and found two main types of protections: plastic and glass. Plastic is a lot cheaper but a lot of people complaint about bubbles, dust and low adherence. The glass ones seem to be better.

Which one do you advice? Do you use any of these solutions? My biggest concern is the "glue" residues that eventually some of them might left.

Answer

I have used both glass and plastic. Giottos (glass) and BestSkinsEver (plastic). Bottomline, the glass is by far the best looking in terms of optical quality. Glare is the same as the LCD itself. However, it is relatively expensive, and the tape that is used is just around the outside, so if it is not done properly or evenly, dust will get in. Being glass, it will scratch, but at least it is disposable. But scratches on a $30 cover can make you just as angry.

FWIW, the LCD already has a protective glass cover that is replaceable. However, I do not think it is replaceable my consumers, and must be sent to your camera maker. Just know that there is already glass covering the LCD.

The plastic does not have the same clarity, but unless you are pixel peeping on the LCD, you won't notice. Glare is gone completely. The clarity depends on the care with which it is applied: it must be very clean and smoothed over well. The plastic does not scratch, and at around $6, its easy to replace. The 'glue' is over the whole surface though some use attach via static or hydrostatic methods (no glue). I have the plastic on my smartphone, iPad and 40D LCD and have been happy. It removes easily, though you can not reuse the plastic if you remove it, as it stretches in removing it.

My recommendation: get the plastic, give it a try. If you hate the clarity, go for the glass.

Check more discussion of this question.