Showing posts with label cropping. Show all posts
Showing posts with label cropping. Show all posts

Friday, May 25, 2012

Is there a keyboard shortcut for 4x6 crop in Lightroom 4, or way to set a default aspect ratio?

Question

I spend a lot of time cropping photos into the 4x6 aspect ratio in order for friends and family to get prints.

When I switch to the crop tool, Lightroom always starts with an unlocked, "Original" aspect ratio, and I have to manually switch it to 4x6.

Is there a way to get LR4 to assume I want 4x6 every time I crop? Failing that, is there a keyboard shortcut (or a series of them) that I can use to quickly get into 4x6 crop mode?

Asked by Eric B

Answer

The Lightroom 4 Missing FAQ says that you can't change the default crop ratio but you can crop multiple images at the same time by either selecting them in grid view and cropping via the quick develop panel (which centres the crop on the centre of the original image) or by cropping one image and then synchronising the others (which places the crop in the same location for all images). If you need each image to be cropped differently you still need to adjust every image manually.

The are unfortunately no keyboard shortcuts to choose a specific crop ratio other than the original.

Answered by Steven Cunningham

Tuesday, February 14, 2012

How do I crop pictures to certain proportion in Photoshop?

Question

For reference, I use Photoshop CS5 Extended. I would prefer to find a way to do what I want in this software.

I often want to crop my pictures so that they fit a certain proportion (either for printing or online use). Even when I want the 1.5:1 ratio my camera produces by default, it's rare that I'm not looking to crop some element out on the edge of the frame.

I know that I can hold down shift while adjusting the cropping box from one of the corners, and it will constrain the proportion there. But is there any way to set a specific proportion for the crop tool to use?

At the moment, I go through a fairly labour intensive process of getting it "about right" and then literally counting the pixels to make it correct.

Asked by TZHX

Answer

When you select the crop tool the toolbar offers some features to make cropping to proportions easy:

  • Pick the Crop tool and in the toolbar pick the crop icon with dropdown arrow, where you'll see presets. Pick one and use it.

  • No preset exists for the crop you want? Create it by entering the specifics in the fields to the right of the field: width, height, and resolution. Then go back to the preset window and click the right arrow flyout menu and choose "New Tool Preset." Name the preset and save. Next time, just use your preset.

Now, here's the real trick: you don't need to specify all three values (width, height, resolution) to create a preset. Just specify the width and height and create a preset with those to be able to simply crop to that aspect ratio, regardless of resolution.

Answered by Dan Wolfgang

Crop pictures to certain proportion?

Question

For reference, I use Photoshop CS5 Extended. I would prefer to find a way to do what I want in this software.

I often want to crop my pictures so that they fit a certain proportion (either for printing or online use). Even when I want the 1.5:1 ratio my camera produces by default, it's rare that I'm not looking to crop some element out on the edge of the frame.

I know that I can hold down shift while adjusting the cropping box from one of the corners, and it will constrain the proportion there. But is there any way to set a specific proportion for the crop tool to use?

At the moment, I go through a fairly labour intensive process of getting it "about right" and then literally counting the pixels to make it correct.

Asked by TZHX

Answer

When you select the crop tool the toolbar offers some features to make cropping to proportions easy:

  • Pick the Crop tool and in the toolbar pick the crop icon with dropdown arrow, where you'll see presets. Pick one and use it.

  • No preset exists for the crop you want? Create it by entering the specifics in the fields to the right of the field: width, height, and resolution. Then go back to the preset window and click the right arrow flyout menu and choose "New Tool Preset." Name the preset and save. Next time, just use your preset.

Now, here's the real trick: you don't need to specify all three values (width, height, resolution) to create a preset. Just specify the width and height and create a preset with those to be able to simply crop to that aspect ratio, regardless of resolution.

Answered by Dan Wolfgang

Thursday, December 22, 2011

What and how to crop?

Question

When I take a photo of something like a building, I tend to shoot the whole building cause later I want to get the feeling and impression I had when I took this photo, I want to transfer these feelings to people. But usually this doesn't happen and I go home with really disappointing shots, and when I show photos to friends and family they don't see what I saw cause the angle of shooting may be weird cause I'm forcing myself to shoot the whole subject. It's really frustrating. Obviously I need to crop the subject I'm shooting but cropping sometimes may make things worse. I wonder when to crop a subject? and still deliver the context I shot this subject in. Also where to do the cropping? especially for portraits, landscape and architecture.

I know that I should crop people from the joints (arms and knees)

Answer

Cropping in General

First off, some words about cropping in general. Fundamentally, cropping is not any different than composing in camera. The same general guidelines apply, and the same outcomes can be achieved with cropping as with composing in-camera. An important symmetry that might not be quite so obvious to a beginner.

As with any composition, there are the standard "rules" (better called guideslines, as they are not exact, and need not always be followed) that apply...rule of thirds, the golden ratio, converging diagonals, etc. Apply the same goals and thought processes to cropping that you would to composing in camera.

Assuming you include in the frame the subject you wish to crop to, at the right angle, you should always be able to achieve with cropping what you can achieve in camera. That puts some importance on ensuring your subject is fully in-frame in the camera, and that they are indeed captured with the appropriate perspective, so you CAN crop the way you want to.

Composing in-camera vs. with crop?

In most cases, I think one can always compose in-camera, rather than with crop, except when you simply don't have the right focal reach to frame your subject the way you need to. If you are unsure of what composition will really capture your subject best, you can always compose a variety of ways in camera and take multiple shots. Storage space is extremely cheap, and sifting through already properly composed pictures to find the best is often a lot easier than trying to compose with cropping after the fact. You also maintain full resolution of your photos, which is always helpful.

When it comes to conveying feeling, you might be able to achieve that with cropping, however I would expect it to be difficult in most cases. Emotion is something that occurs in the moment, and it is often difficult to fully replicate what you may have felt on-scene later on when trying to recreate the feeling while post processing. You no longer have the same state of mind, you are no longer standing there seeing and feeling the same, so at best you can only convey a remembrance. Learning to compose in camera, and composing in multiple ways in-camera, might be the best way you can capture the feeling of a photograph the way you want to.

Sometimes, composition is simply knowing about the options and possibilities. To that end, I hope the following explanations and the accompanying links to sample shots can help provide food for thought:

Composing Landscapes

There are a variety of ways to compose landscapes. The most common are the ultra wide and wide angle shots, however they are not the only valid way to compose a landscape photograph. Telephoto focal lengths can also be extremely useful for landscapes, and often offer the opportunity to "reach" beyond an unsightly foreground to compose a stunning landscape shot beyond.

Composition of a landscape depends on the scope of the shot. With wide angle shots, the subject is usually fairly broad, encompassing a whole mountain or mountain range, an expansive sky, and possibly a mid-foreground subject like a lake. Ultra-wide angle shots are similar to wide angle shots, however they offer the additional opportunity to get extremely close to key foreground subjects, such as trees, various flora and boulders, the shore of a lake, logs and other deadfall, etc. This is called the near/far relationship, and some of my all-time favorite landscape shots have superb near/far sense.

There is also the "mathematics of subtraction", a concept referenced by photographer Andy Mumford in an excellent article on composition that I have found invaluable in a lot of my landscape work. Both ultra-wide angle lenses as well as telephoto lenses can help you narrow the field of view, simplify a landscape, and focus on shape, form, and tone...aspects that often convey emotion. Zeroing in on these aspects is often easier with a telephoto lens. Capturing both wide-angle shots as well as telephoto shots is often a useful in that it provides complementary but independent photographs. Such complements can be printed together, framed and hung on a wall in an additional composition.

When it comes to cropping landscapes, its certainly possible, however it is important to ask yourself what you might gain. Ultra-wide angle lenses capture scenes with great breadth and depth, and can often offer room for cropping down, however you lose the benefit that an ultra-wide lens offers: foreground proximity. With telephoto lenses, the entire point is to zero in on a smaller aspect of a larger landscape, and composing in camera can be very important to capturing the right perspective.

Composing Architecture

Architecture is an interesting beast. Its one of my favorite types of photography, and I explore a lot of it, however I have not tried my luck at capturing it much myself yet. More so than with landscapes, architecture is very much about perspective. Capturing a building, the breadth of a while city, or say just a bridge, staircase or alleyway, is about portraying the sense of size or depth.

Buildings are both easy and difficult to capture. In one sense, they exude perspective, and capturing it is rather strait forward. On the other hand, people see buildings all the time, and capturing them in such that they exude intrigue as well is often about positioning and contrast. Pointing a camera strait at the side of a building is ok, but there are more interesting perspectives. At an angle, strait up from street level, in composition with several other buildings, with thin DOF down a metropolitan avenue, etc. Sometimes gaining a little elevation can help.

Cityscapes are similar to landscapes, and often the same rules apply. A foreground of water is always a useful tool, and can help convey some of the sense of awe (feeling) at seeing a large metropolitan center from a slight distance. The near/far relationship that applies to landscapes also apply here...a bridge stretching across a river to a metropolitan center that expands across the rest of the shot is often an intriguing composition.

Also like landscapes, architecture can benefit from the mathematics of subtraction. Capturing one aspect of architecture can produce intriguing yet very simplistic shots. One of my favorite subjects are stairwells, escalators, etc. It may seem ironic, however these simple subjects in total isolation provide a lot of opportunity. Old stairwells that spiral up or down, full of a variety of colors or tones, can be quite amazing. Bridges arching overhead or out into the distance provide some of the same simplistic allure.

Composing Portraits

In all honesty, I don't know a whole lot about composing portraits. People are infinitely complex, and there are probably an infinite number of ways one can capture the endless expanse of form, color, emotion, etc. that humanity exudes. I think the mathematics of subtraction are critical to portraiture from a compositional standpoint. I think light and perspective also play a critical role. Beyond that, hopefully someone else who has more experience with portraits can offer much better insight than I can.

Sunday, December 18, 2011

Is it possible to get the Histogram display in Lightroom to only consider the area selected by your cropping?

Question

I've noticed that when I crop a photo, the histogram does not change. If I am then making changes based on the histogram (ie. exposure, fill light, blacks, etc...), it would seem to me that the histogram would be more useful if it was based only the area I had selected in my crop.

For instance, if the histogram indicates that I have blown highlights, or vastly underexposed parts of my photo, but I have cropped to remove those areas, wouldn't the histogram be more useful if it represented that?

Maybe I'm wrong, if so, please let me know why!

Thanks - Sean

Answer

The histogram in Lightroom 3 does change. Here's an example:

Full frame

full frame image

Cropped

cropped image

You'll note that the cropped image has more image information in the top third of the histogram, whereas the uncropped one has more in the lower third. That's what you would expect. So the question is, why aren't you observing this? Are you using Lightroom 3?

Friday, November 18, 2011

Is there a software to automatically crop a scan of multiple images?

Question

I want to digitize my old family albums using a scanner and there are lots of photos in them. Thus far, my method has been to scan 4 images at a time and then manually cropping them in a simple editor like Picasa or Windows Live Photo Gallery. This has been pretty time consuming as each scan is followed by 4 crop operations. Scanning each image individually would possibly be even more time consuming.

Is there any software or simple plugin (preferably free) that does this job? The best solution I have found is in Photoshop, but that's an overkill. Is there a similar feature for one of the free photo editors like Paint.NET or GIMP?

Answer

If you don't know the crop boundary then you can use Fred Weinhaus's multicrop script (this script also uses Imagemagick). The script also handles different photo sizes and rotated images.

Example (book covers):

Scanned image (input.tiff):

original scanned image

multicrop input.tiff output.tiff

Result:

output-0.tiff:

enter image description here

output-1.tiff:

enter image description here

Thursday, October 27, 2011

When is it OK to place the subject in the middle of a picture?

Question

When is it OK to place the subject in the middle of a picture?

I took this picture and feel very compelled to put the subject in the centre rather than on the sides.

picture

Answer

When is it OK to place the subject in the middle of a picture? Whenever you feel like it works best!

The general rule of not centering your subject is time-honored, and comes from one basic idea: the center of an image is a stable, straightforward place. When you put something there visually, it stays there visually, usually resulting in a static composition.

When you have your subject off-center, you can use tension and dynamic balance, which tend to make a more engaging composition.

Other factors can contribute to this: the lines from the subject's eyes and the way the subject is facing; color weight; other objects and motion in the composition and their balance. Overall, these can add dynamic interest even if your main subject is static.

You may, though, want the simple, straightforward, and more-static image. That's okay. Think about the flow of interest as you are observing the photo, and decide if a centered or dynamically-balanced composition fits your intent better.

In your particular example, the dog's face (and particularly eyes) aren't actually centered at all: they're quite towards the top of the frame. The overall subject is centered, but the face has considerable off-center visual weight. The leaves on the right side contrasting with the bright yellow flowers on the center-right provide some reason to keep the horizontal as it is; a tighter crop either cuts out the context of the plants or leaves the frame feeling cluttered.

Friday, July 15, 2011

Is digital zoom really useful?

Question

I've always wondered what is the use of digital zoom, apart from viewing the subject clearly on the LCD display.

We can take a photo with the optical zoom and crop the photo to the desired region of interest.

How does a photo taken with digital zoom compare with the cropped one? What are the advantages of having a high digital zoom?

Answer

No, it does not have much use.

Digital zoom is a restricted form of cropping:

  • It is always done around the center.
  • It is constrained to certain fixed increments.
  • It is limited in quality by the firmware of the camera.

On the other hand, cropping can:

  • Be of arbitrary size.
  • Be taken from any part of the image.
  • Be processed using a variety of state-of-the-art algorithms designed to produce higher-quality results than your camera can.
  • Is reversible if you use a non-destructive editing software such as Lightroom or Bibble.

What things should one take into account when looking at cropping a photo?

Question

When looking at cropping a photo:

  • How do you decide whether to crop it or not (for starters)?
  • What things should you take into account - both practical and artistic?

I guess that this question is really about composition 'after the fact'.

Here's a 'sample' photo which you can base your answers on, but my question isn't specifically about this particular photo.

alt text

Answer

When cropping a photo, I try to do/achieve several things:

  • Center:

    1. the subject, when it is slightly more on one side. Of course, in some photos, putting the subject in the corner is done to achieve an artistic effect, but I'm not talking about those cases.

    2. the scene, for example when the horizon is too low or too high.

  • Remove:

    1. the elements which attract attention away from the subject of an image. For example, if it is an image of a person in a street, and there are no other people except someone not very nice to see in the corner, it's better to crop the image.

    2. the unwanted elements. For example, if there is a tree outside of the picture, but you see a part of this tree in a corner, there is a good reason to crop the image.

    3. the elements that show that the photo is not straight. For example, a tall building on a side of the photo can attract attention by the fact that it "falls" to the center of an image, due to perspective problems. Another example is anything straight in real life, which is shown as a curve on a photo, due to the lens distortion.

    4. the empty areas, except when those areas add an artistic value. A block of brick wall is an empty area in this case.

To resume, I crop photos when either there are elements which must not be here or when there is nothing interesting on the sides of the image.

In the sample photo, it's difficult to tell what was your purpose. If the subject is a young girl watching through a window, I'll probably crop everything except the girl's head, thus keeping a small margin around to show the snow outside and the black frame of the window.