How can I make my heavy lens tripod setup usable for my non-heavy lenses?

Question

About a year ago I invested in a new setup, consisting of a Nikon D7000, kit lens, and a Sigma 150-500mm for my main interest: wildlife photography. Although I'm not a big fan of tripods, I also got the Manfrotto 055XDB along with a "standard" 3-way tripod head.

At times when I wanted to use the D7000 + 500mm on the tripod, I quickly came to the conclusion that it does not work, the lens is so heavy that it creeps down even if you lock it firmly. Luckily, I resolved that by investing in the Manfrotto M393 tripod head:

It's works beautifully. Now let's talk about the problem. The part in grey is what I have attached to my heavy lens permanently, even when its not on the tripod. This way, I don't have to screw it onto my lens each time. I can just slide my heavy lens with that part attached to it into the rails, lock it with the lever and be ready, a process of 5 seconds.

However, I would like to use this same tripod head for my non-heavy lenses. Here's my considerations:

• Buy a second tripod, and use the classic 3-way head on the 2nd tripod. Not an option, I don't want to be carrying two tripods around.
• Use one tripod, yet replace the head each time I need a different lens. Not an option, attaching/detaching the M393 takes minutes and requires tools. Plus I need to carry around two tripod heads
• Don't attach the grey part to my heavy lens, and attach/detach it each time I change lenses. This also takes too long and also requires tools.

I don't like any of those options, and am looking for a solution that is more convenient. I was trying to see if the quick release plate of my classic 3-way head can slide into the M393's rails, and then lock it into place. It doesn't secure well enough and the other problem is that the camera blocks the black lever that one needs to use to screw it into place.

I'm not exactly sure what I need to resolve this or if its possible. I'm guessing I need a second plate that fits the M393 rails. Yet it would need to be less lengthy, and quite likely raised, so that it does not block the lever to secure it.

I am probably the only person in the world having this problem, but I'm hoping there's a magic part of solution that fits my needs?

Asked by Ferdy

Answer

Manfrotto makes all sorts of quick release plates in different sizes and shapes. I bet they make one that would fit that head and would be shorter. I don't see a specific item to point you to, but contacting Manfrotto should get you a part number.

IMO, in a broader sense, I'm not sure this head was the right choice. The 150-500 really isn't a heavy lens -- not compared to the heavy lenses that this head is intended for. Additionally, this head is intended to be used on a monopod, not a tripod. I think the right solution is a good medium-duty ballhead (such as an RRS BH-40. If you really want the gimbal-style head, add a Wimberley Sidekick. Of course, the BH-40 would easily handle any lighter camera/lens combination, too, and is arguably a smaller and lighter package.

Answered by Dan Wolfgang

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How can I prevent blurred images when using a tripod?

Question

I'm doing panoramic HDR photography for work using one of those stupid cheap mirror balls mounted on a tripod (not my decision!) and I am noticing on my longer exposures that sometimes I'm getting blurred images. I am using mirror lock-up and a 2 second delay. SOMETIMES on my 2 or 3 longest exposures the image is blurred when I view it in Photoshop. I am using a Canon kit lens with a +2 magnifying lens mounted on the front, and I'm SURE I'm not touching the tripod at all. The only thing I can think is causing this is the image stabilizer which is pretty much kept on at all times. Can anyone think of anything else that might cause this behavior?

EDIT: I might add that it's not ALL of my longest exposures. It's one or two, sometimes 1, sometimes NONE, but usually it's the 2nd longest exposure. The tripod itself is a sturdy Manfrotto. Now that I think of it, I usually have to bring all my images into Photoshop first before merging to HDR because they all seem to be out of alignment by up to 4 or 5 pixels. The way the panorama head works on this contraption is that there is a head mounted on the tripod with a screw for mounting the camera, pointing up at the mirror lens. The plate that the camera sits against can be adjusted up or down by millimeters so that different camera/lens configurations can be used.

UPDATE: Ok, after reading all your comments/suggestions, let me give you guys some more info. For those of you wondering, the mirror ball contraption is used for when you need a 360 panorama of your subject (in my case it's a room inside a condominium) in one shot (the system is used a lot by realtors who need quick shots of a whole room using a cheap point and shoot). You get a low-res pic since you are shooting a reflected image of the image, but for quick solutions to real estate photography it does its job. What you get is a large round image that you then stick into the software for this particular mirror ball manufacturer and you can either 'roll' the image out into a panoramic cylinder image or you can use it to turn into a 'virtual tour' for showing on the web.

Here is a picture of what they look like mounted to a camera (tho my setup is mounted on a tripod and looks a little different):

Here is the image that these things produce:

Here is what I get sometimes--note that it looks like camera shake:

Here is the exact same shot taken right afterwards to ensure at least one of the exposures comes out sharp:

I have mirror lockup enabled, and am using a delay before shooting, so there is no issue with me touching the camera and accidentally causing blur once the shutter opens, or the mirror causing vibrations. Because this sucker takes a picture of the WHOLE room at once, I can either choose to stick it on a 10 second delay and leave the room or sit underneath it with a smaller 2 second delay. Since an HDR series takes me about 15 pictures, it is not expedient for me to leave the room for 10+ seconds at a time, and a shutter release cable (or IR remote) isn't necessary if I'm using a timed delay (and if I used it it would be in the shot unless I was still sitting underneath the tripod). I am not using auto bracketing but manually dialing in each stop. The building is rock solid, well away from the road, and is built to withstand hurricane force winds. I am not walking around during the shot, but sitting underneath it. I make sure no part of my body is close to any element of the tripod before I press the shutter, and hold my hand away from the camera until the timed delay passes and the camera takes the picture. I have taken to taking two shots of each of my exposures that are more than 1 second as inevitably at least one of them will be completely blurred. The others will maintain their sharpness.

So, somehow, even tho the building is solid, the mirror is locked up, there is a timed delay, I'm not touching the camera or the tripod and the tripod is sturdy, I am getting camera shake. Because these mirror ball images are EXTREMELY sensitive to vibrations and I am positive I have eliminated any human reasons for shake, I gotta wonder if the only thing that's left is the IS?

Asked by Heather Walters

Answer

One of the Great Truths of photography is that for every camera/lens/tripod combination, there is a range of shutter speeds that you need to avoid. At faster shutter speeds, the exposure is completed before the system's physical resonance has a chance to blur things; at slower shutter speeds the system has damped out before the exposure is complete, and the majority of the exposure occurs when the system is essentially motionless. That is true of any lens/camera/tripod, but the problem is usually difficult to notice except on a very high-resolution system.

It's the speeds in the middle, where the system is in motion for the majority of the exposure, that you need to find and avoid. Mirror lock-up can only help a little, since the action of the shutter can be enough to initiate the resonance. Since you are experiencing this problem on only one or two exposures out of a three-shot sequence, I'd be willing to bet money that the shutter speed is what you're changing between exposures and that the problem is occurring consistently in a range of shutter speeds.

In this situation (with the one-shot 360° lens attachment), the problem is exacerbated by the inherent springiness of the mirror stalk. (There are more stable designs, but then you're generally shooting through a cylinder of polycarbonate that's a real sonofabee to keep meticulously clean and unscratched.) Just find out which shutter speeds are causing the problem, and adjust your exposure settings to avoid them. You may want to find the best (least blurry) speed and sharpest aperture, then base your bracket on a varying ISO instead.

Answered by Stan Rogers

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Finding (and choosing) A Tripod

Question

Here is my dilemma and question:

I have a Nikon D5100 and I am looking to buy a tripod. However I commute by bus and walk a lot so I need a tripod that is sturdy yet can be portable and light enough that carrying it attached to my bag (or even better inside) would not be an issue.

I have considered a Gorillapod but I am not always close to something that I can prop it on or attach it to and need some height that the Gorillapod doesn't have.

One other consideration is price. I am looking in the 100-150 range but would prefer closer to the 100 dollar range but am flexible.

I have read a lot on here and on other sites and I am a bit lost. There are so many options and so many considerations. I have seen some good tripods but paying 500 dollars is a bit much. Also I would prefer a tripod that is bundled with a head (ball preferably)

I am open and welcome any information, help, and recommendations!

Asked by Lynda

Answer

Your combination of requirements is a tough one. You essentially want all of the following in a tripod kit (legs and ball head):

• Lightweight;
• Compact when folded;
• Reasonably tall when extended;
• Sturdy enough to bother with; and
• Cheap

If you wanted to pick any two from that list, your options are wide open. Getting all five together is a lot more difficult. As usual, I'm going to recommend going to the B & H Photo and Video website and using their excellent search filter to narrow down the choices. This link will get you a list of tripods with heads for under $250 (the filter doesn't have a lower top price to select) that will fold down to between 15 and 20 inches (38-51cm).

I will personally vouch for both the Benro TravelAngel series and the Cullmann Magic tripod. I know they're at the top end of your range in terms of price, but they're certainly sturdy enough unless you're using a very heavy camera/lens combo, they fold down to a very compact and baggable package, are light enough to carry all of the time without feeling like you're being punished for something, and while they're not something a very tall person would want to use all day, every day, they do get tall enough to be useful.

Undoubtedly, there are equally good choices to be had from other makers. The higher-end Velbons, for instance, are worth it, as are the Vanguards. Induro is also reasonably good, but they don't have a model that is as compact and as inexpensive as you want at the same time (you can have either, but not both). I've never laid a hand on the Oben tripods, but they look okay on paper—perhaps somebody else can offer their experience with them?

Unless you are buying used or really on sale, though, I'd try to stick to the upper end of your price range. That $50 really makes a difference in the level of performance, and the next significant step up is another $100 or so on top of that. At the sub-$100 level, you're mostly looking at specialty equipment (like the Gorillapod and its kin) or spindly toys that sort of look like tripods.

Answered by Stan Rogers

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Do I really need a ball head for a SLR zoom Gorillapod?

Question

GorillaPod doesn't come with a ball head, but since its legs are extremely flexible will I actually "need" a ball head?

Can't I simply bend the legs to get the view? Am I missing a point?

Asked by Anisha Kaul

Answer

To some degree you can adjust the legs or bend it so the camera faces where you want it.

But let's say you have it wrapped around a railing and want to aim the camera elsewhere. With a small ball head you can turn the camera easily. If you have to adjust the legs, it may take a lot of trial and error to position the camera just right.

Or if you have it on a tabletop, like a normal tripod, and have it balanced, but then want to point the camera up or down, again with a ball head that would be trivial, but if you have to bend legs to aim the camera the direction you want, you may unbalance the whole thing and once more it takes some trial and error to get it positioned.

If you're patient you can do without one. If you use it all the time you might get frustrated and a small ball head might be worth while.

Answered by MikeW

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Do I “need” a ball head for a SLR zoom Gorillapod?

Question

GorillaPod doesn't come with a ball head, but since its legs are extremely flexible will I actually "need" a ball head?

Can't I simply bend the legs to get the view? Am I missing a point?

Asked by Anisha Kaul

Answer

To some degree you can adjust the legs or bend it so the camera faces where you want it.

But let's say you have it wrapped around a railing and want to aim the camera elsewhere. With a small ball head you can turn the camera easily. If you have to adjust the legs, it may take a lot of trial and error to position the camera just right.

Or if you have it on a tabletop, like a normal tripod, and have it balanced, but then want to point the camera up or down, again with a ball head that would be trivial, but if you have to bend legs to aim the camera the direction you want, you may unbalance the whole thing and once more it takes some trial and error to get it positioned.

If you're patient you can do without one. If you use it all the time you might get frustrated and a small ball head might be worth while.

Answered by MikeW

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What is the “round” tripod plate used for?

Question

I have recently purchased a new tripod (Oben AC-1400 AL with BA-00 HEAD) and there is a round plate between the tripod and the head itself. It seems like it is meant to remain where it is but I think the head is more secure without it as it catches more thread on the screw the connects the tripod and the head.

Is the round plate necessary? what is it's purpose?

Edit: Added a model name, link and a picture showing the location of the plate.

Edit: Added a new image to show the screws on the plate and that they do not extend into any opening in the head itself.

Asked by Jakub

Answer

How does a head lock onto the tripod? Normally, you would screw the head onto the plate with a protruding 3/8"(?) screw, then beneath the plate where you screwed the tripod onto are three set screws that are screwed down to tighten against the head. Basically, the head is screwed on in one direction and the set screws push in the opposite direction. This creates a "lock" so that the head doesn't somehow work it's way loose, probably at the most inopportune time!

The round plate you picture looks like the plate I describe. There are three set screws, likely to push against the head. If you remove this plate, how does the head stay locked on the tripod? (I'm asking. I'm not familiar with this tripod so I don't know.) This round plate appears to have a hex center hole. I'm guessing that the hex center hole lines up on the tripod, so that this round plate can't spin. Then you screw the head onto the plate/tripod, and then you tighten the three set screws on this round plate.

Answered by Dan Wolfgang

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Using carbon-fiber tripods in cold weather: safe temperatures, precautions, and effects of failure

Question

I'm considering buying Manfrotto 055CXPRO3 carbon-fiber tripod legs with a Manfrotto 498RC2 ball head, but I've read that carbon fiber can break at low temperatures.

• How cold an environment can I safely use a carbon-fiber tripod in, and what precautions should I take?
• What would happen in the event the carbon fiber fails? Is there a significant health or safety hazard beyond equipment damage?

Asked by DragonLord

Answer

Carbon fiber can take quite a hell of a beating, both in terms of environment (water, sand, snow) and temperature. I've heard a lot of people discussing or complaining about how carbon fiber is susceptible to extreme cold, however I think most of it is hearsay and speculation.

There are only a couple times when I've read something regarding carbon fiber being fragile at cold temperatures...but the use of the word "cold" was always lacking. You would need to spend a night out on the frozen ice pack of the most northern reaches of Alaska during the heart of winter (which is actually what all of the verifiable accounts of broken carbon fiber 'pod legs I've read described...usually in relation to photographing the auroras) to actually experience cold enough temperatures for it to actually pose a serious problem. Most carbon fiber tripods these days are multi-layered, weaved or braided, and resin-reinforced. In the average case for cold, you may crack a layer if you slammed a leg with enough force, but it would take a pretty extreme freeze, well, well below zero, to run the risk of actually cracking a leg all the way through or shattering one completely.

As for precautions, if you are using your tripod at -20 or below, you need to make sure you don't slam it or strike it with anything hard. Dropping your pack or bag on hard snow pack or ice with the pod strapped to the outside is a sure way to crack or shatter it at extreme temps. You can crack a leg by pulling it too hard when setting it up, so you need to be careful with that as well. Section releases can ice up, and wrenching them too hard at cold temperatures may cause cracking, so its best to ease into it. Better yet, extend one or two of the sections before you get out into the extreme cold, and only extend the last sections if you absolutely have to (most of the articles I've read on aurora photography seem to indicate that you'll probably be sitting in a chair anyway, so full extension is often not required in the first place.) Once set up, you'll want to make sure you don't slam any of the legs with anything hard...such as the camera, any other gear, a flashlight, etc.

If for whatever reason you DID shatter a leg, I don't know of any specific health hazards. I've always heard carbon fiber was a pretty stable, safe, environmentally friendly product, so I wouldn't worry about that. Its unlikely it would break cleanly, especially if you have a layered product like a tripod leg. Its likely to leave a rough edge, so I would be aware of that and make sure you don't scrape your stab yourself with any broken ends.

Answered by jrista

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How to use a tripod on the beach without damaging it?

Question

The site already has a good example of what to consider in regards to camera and lenses around sand, but I specifically am wondering what considerations to make when using a tripod near sand. Many years ago I took a cheap tripod with lever style legs, and sand really wrecked the entire tripod. I am hoping this time to avoid that issue. Is there a style of tripod that might be better, and how can I use it in such a way to limit any long term damage?

I don't have any specific shots in mind, just likely some long exposure night shots of the beach resort, and I might get it out in the day time for some self portraits.

Asked by dpollitt

Answer

In addition to @Itai's answer, I'd like to add, if you don't want to spend 1200$ on a tripod just to protect it from sands, you can use a little care, or on extreme situations, alternative DIY methods.

I also wrecked a tripod (not totally wrecked, but the sands kind of jammed the levers on the legs) by using it near a beach on a windy day. The next time I took some plastic (polythene) bags, cut them into long pieces (3" width) and adhesive tapes to put them around the leg lever joints like bandages. Worked like a charm. The only problem is, once you tape them in, you lose the ability to adjust the tripod height by extending the legs, otherwise this is good enough if you're not planning to go all out beach shooting. Adjust the tripod height before applying the tapes and you're good to go for that day.

And after the shooting, get to a safe place and use a rocket blower to blow off any accidental remaining sand particles near the lever joints just to be on the safe side.

DISCLAIMER: This method doesn't look pretty.

Additional Tips:

• Accept the fact that a tripod is a tool, it's OK if it gets dirty. Metal tripods will eventually corrode if you expose it to salt water on a regular basis. Get a carbon fiber tripod to prevent corrosion.
• Make it a practice to always extend the lowest section to keep the joints out of the sand.
• A broad sand "shoe" is useful in both sand and mud to keep the leg from sinking.
• If the tripod gets dirty, keep it extended until you can clean it.
• Any decent quality tripod will take many, many years to corrode to the point it really matters with occasional exposure to sand/salt water. So, open up all the legs, wash and rinse it thoroughly using clean water and wipe it dry before storing it.

Answered by ShutterBug

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What can tall photographers do about tripod height?

Question

I'm in the market for my first tripod, and have noticed that they generally top out around 175cm(5'8") tall. I'm 200cm(6'6") tall, and while there aren't many people taller than me, there are some.

What do other tall photographers do?

• Suck it up and hunch over, as we must for most things in life? (cars, doorways, kitchen counters, etc.)
• Customize your own tripod?
• Find a boutique "big & tall tripod" retailer?

Answer

There are quite a few tripods that are taller than you (without a head), and many more that would come to eye level comfortably with a head. Brands include Benbo, Benro, Berlebach (wooden), Cullman, Davis & Sanford, Giottos, Gitzo, Induro, Kowa, Linhof, Majestic, Manfrotto, Slik and the 3-Legged Thing. Some of those you would need a stepladder to use at their full extended height. If you're a studio shooter, most camera stands go to eight feet (240cm) or higher. To go shopping, I'd suggest using the B&H Photo and Video site and it's excellent search filters. (You don't need to buy from them, but their site is probably the best way to find out what you want to buy.)

But that's not the whole story in any case. I'm not particularly tall (5'9"/173cm), and while I have used the Benbo 2's full reach (253 cm without a head) out in the field and spent some time on a ladder with studio camera stands, that's not the normal state of affairs. Hunching, crouching, kneeling and lying down are. That's not because of the height of the camera support, but because the subject demands it. One of the pleasures of working with real fashion models was that they were some of the few people I could shoot even part of the time from anything like a standing height (take somebody who stands a little taller than me, then add heels, and I'd barely have to bend to get down to a good level for a 1/2- or 3/4-length shot -- but I'd still have to bend). You can always put people on risers, of course, but landscapes are rarely cooperative in that way (and there are Laws of the Universe stating that the best angle for a landscape will always be something other than your normal standing point of view; like the time of arrival at a restaurant, it is a recipriversexcluson).

So yes, you can find a tripod that will let you work comfortably, but you'll find that comfort and photography are almost mutually exclusive.

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Which tripod plates are compatible with the Nikon D7000?

Question

I'm searching for D7000 compatible tripod in local online market. D7000 body doesn't have small whole near the screw as shown below (well it has but pretty far).

However, in the local market whatever I hit has some small element near the main screw.

So can somebody show the plate(s) which are compatible with nikon? What is the standard name for Nikon's plate and what is the standard on plates shown above?

Answer

That pin that you've circled will be a spring loaded pin that will retract. Some cameras may have a hole that pin will fit into to keep the camera from swiveling, but if the camera has no hole, the pin will retract and won't be in the way.

By the way, the pictured tripod looks pretty light. If you have a large lens on your D7000 that tripod will probably work, but doesn't look like a really sturdy tripod. You can read up on recommendations here

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What properties should I look for to judge tripod quality?

Question

I'm fairly new to photography and I've been considering buying a tripod. My problem is that I don't know what makes for good quality in them - what properties should I judge against?

This question about tripods for landscape photography seems related but slightly different in purpose.

Answer

Tripod selection comes down to a few different compromises. What is more important to you, the cost, tripod weight, or the stability of the tripod? It is a set of trade offs and you have to choose what is most important to you, or decide that you won't get the best of all three.

General Considerations

• Stability/Capacity - Are you shooting with a small point and shoot, or a pro DSLR with a big telephoto lens? Look for maximum weight capacity specs and keep these in mind. You don't want to overload the unit and risk your camera hitting the ground if a bit of wind comes along.
• Leg Material - You can choose between carbon fiber, aluminum or some more specialty options such as (gorilla pod legs and other fibers). Aluminum is usually the cheap option, they are cost effective, but not very light or great at dampening vibrations. Carbon fiber is typically the preferred material, as it is light, solid, and dampens vibrations.
• Price - Sure you can pick up a tripod for $15USD or so, but putting a $500 DSLR on top of that in on top of a windy rock, is not a good idea. A quality tripod will go a long way to capturing a great image.
• Height - How tall are you, and what is a comfortable height to shoot from? As suggested in the comments below, you want to think about what level you want to shot at, not necessarily your height. Although personally I think both are important :) Keep in mind that many tripods have separate leg and ball head sections, that can add height. Many have options for a center column extension, and some even have options to get down low to take macro shots.
• Size - You have to consider not only the fully extended height(above), but the size of the tripod and head when collapsed. This is important if you are hiking or traveling with the unit. Usually tripods with more sections are smaller, but also hold less weight.
• Leg Releases - This can be a personal preference thing, but each one of us usually likes one or the other. Some legs twist and some have levers. I would try each out yourself to see what you like.
• Head Configuration - This gets into a large subtopic. Basically you can get a tripod with a built in head, that is not user switchable, or a unit that is essentially separate, and allows you to use a different head as desired. It is for the most part desirable to have a user switchable head, but it usually costs more to have this option and buy the separate pieces. A few examples of heads include - Ball heads, still camera heads, video heads, shotgun style heads, gimbal style heads, geared heads, and panoramic style heads. Usually the inexpensive models have the still camera heads, and the professional lines tend towards the ball head style. Much more info about heads can be found in this previous answer - What should one consider when choosing a style of tripod head?
• Release - The release mechanism is quite important. Most use some type of quick release plate, the plate essentially gets secured to your camera during the days shoot, and allows you to quickly mount the camera to the tripod without screwing things in and out each time. Some lower end units or small specialty tripods will use a simple screw mount with no release plate. This works well if the tripod is very small and simple in design.

Other specialty features

This could explode into a huge topic, but I'll try to cover the basics.

• Macro photographers like to use "low angle adapters" or "inverted center columns" to get low to the subject such as in this question.
• Monopod for ultra mobility and size/weight considerations, or to assist in panning while using large lenses.
• Gorillapod or other segmented legged tripod for attaching to various objects.
• Beanbag objects(not technically a tripod, but useful for similar requirements)
• Lens collar which will provide better balance when mounting large heavy lenses(more of an accessory, but comes into play when considering tripods)
• Bubble levels
• Degree scale markings on the tripod head
• Center column attachment or hook for added weight(helps with stability)

Overall, you can see this is a very large topic, that takes some consideration on your part to decide what is important to you. If size and cost are extremely important, a Joby GorillaPod might be the best option for you. If stability and weight are the most important, you might want a Gitzo GT3541LS leg with a Gitzo GH2750QR head... too many choices :)

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Is there a very small but robust tripod?

Question

During my trips when I do landscape photography, I often can't take my tripod. It's too big and too heavy. If the weight can be managed by buying a more expensive one, the size remains a problem.

There are plenty of very small tripods for sale, but they are intended for light point and shoot cameras, and will be inappropriate for a 1 Kg (25 oz.) DSLR with a lens like a 0.5 Kg (19 oz.) Nikkor 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR II. For example, the Cullmann mini-tripod 50004 has a carrying capacity of 0.5 Kg (19 oz.) and seems unstable enough to carry the camera with such lens.

Is there a small tripod for heavy DSLRs, taken in account that:

• I understand that it will not be possible to use with with heavy and large lenses like a 1.5 Kg (55 oz.) Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II,

• I have no intent to use the tripod in windy conditions,

• It may be expensive,

• It must be max. 30-35 cm. (12-14 in.) collapsed,

• It doesn't have to be large when expanded,

• Every of the three legs has to expand separately, so the tripod can be used on a non-flat surface like rocks or grass,

• I don't expect this to be an excellent product which can replace a real tripod in any condition, but rather a light alternative to use when bringing the real tripod is not possible,

• A monopod is not a solution.

Answer

I think you want to be lookin' at the Joby GorillaPod lineup. The SLR-Zoom model (see also this question) holds up to 3kg, is 9.8" (by 2.4"x2.4"), and the three legs can be "extended" — or in this case, weirdly twisted — individually. It's also relatively inexpensive, but you'll pay extra for a ballhead (recommended!).

They also have larger and smaller models.

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Do vibration-resistant lenses need tripods for ultra-sharp landscapes?

Question

Does it make sense to use vibration-resistant lenses for ultra-sharp landscapes?

I mean when the F is 16, we'll have to lower the shutter speed to a great deal.

So, if I use a VR lens, will I still require a tripod or will the VR lens handle the hand shaking on its own to a great deal?

Answer

The rule of thumb is you can hand hold a 50mm lens at 1/50th second, or a 100mm at 1/100th second and have reasonable lack of camera shake. VR extends that a few stops. So it depends on the amount of light.

In bright sunlight, at f/16 and a 35mm lens, you wouldn't need a tripod or VR.

In low light, VR won't be enough, you'll need a tripod

In between there will be a few instances where you could make use of VR, where hand- holding would not really be possible, but there is enough light that with VR you can get a decent image. But as the light fades you'll have to increase to f/8 and f/5.6 because VR won't be enough when the shutter speed drops to 1/8th second.

You can steady the camera against a tree or rock or car window if you don't have a tripod, but as a general rule I'd say a tripod is more useful to landscape photography than VR.

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What are the different Canon tripod mount ring types for?

Question

What are the types of Canon's tripod mount rings? I've heard about A, B, C and D types, but have no idea what it means or what the difference between them is.

Answer

The different types are:

• Tripod Mount Ring A for 70-200mm f/4L (for both IS & non-IS versions)
• Tripod Mount Ring B for 100mm f/2.8 Macro, 180mm f/3.5L Macro & MP-E 65mm f/2.8 Macro
• Tripod Mount Ring D for 100mm F2.8 IS Macro Lens

They have (B) and (W) markings on them, meaning Black and White respectively. A and A-2 (II) are said to be interchangeable.

It seems that Canon does not make type C, but some third parties do.

According to different sources, B also fits for 100-400mm f4.5-5.6 and both IS and non-IS 70-200 f2.8.

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Is there a standard tripod mount?

Question

Is there a standard tripod mount? Is it reasonable to assume that a given tripod will attach successfully to a given camera, or will I have to research my options?

Answer

Yes. The tripod thread is standard: 1/4-20, which means ¼", with 20 threads per inch.

This is specified by ISO 1222:2010. I'm not willing to pay the $57 for my own copy, but I'm kind of curious, as wikipedia says that the current standard also allows 3/8-16 — apparently that's an older mostly-European standard. This is probably old-hat to aficionados of classic field cameras, but was new to me — all of the modern Japanese DSLRs and compacts I've seen use the 1/4-20 thread. 3/8-16 may still be common for larger-format cameras. I think it's safe to say that for consumer and mass-market professional cameras, 1/4-20 is now almost universal.

The other important thing is that almost all modern tripods use a quick-release plate system. There's a small plate which has the tripod thread which screws directly to the camera, and then that snaps into the tripod head using a proprietary-to-each-company attachment. That means that even if your camera would use the less-common thread, you could get a plate that matches — for example, a Gitzo plate which comes with both threads. And adapters between these two threadings are readily available.

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What should one consider when choosing a style of tripod head?

Question

What should one consider when choosing a style of tripod head? There are ball heads, 3-way pan/tilt heads, geared heads, even gimbal heads.

I'm not asking so much about brands, but styles... how should one consider which type of tripod head will be best suited for their style of photography?

Answer

Your last sentence pretty much describes what you need to consider with tripod heads: what and how do you like to shoot.

As geared and gimbal heads are specialized, it's really between the pan-tilt and ball heads. Many start with pan/tilts due to relatively low costs, but will find themselves switching to the ball head for ease of use, and sturdier head (IMO ball heads offer a more sturdier mount than pan/tilts at the same price point--ie to get a sturdier pan/tilt you have to pay for a more heavy duty head).

3-way Pan/Tilt Head
With 3-way heads, your camera moves on 3 distinct axes (axissesis?). If you need precise movement on each axis for your needs (panning for sports for example), then a 3-way makes a lot of sense. It's downside is the need to adjust three knobs to set your camera position. Many start out with a Pan/Tilt head, because of the lower costs.

Ball Head
A ball head gives you less precise control of each axis, because your camera is mounted on a ball and socket joint, typically with two controls, one to lock the mount, and the other to adjust tension. You have less control, but are given more degrees of freedom to move your camera around, allowing you to more quickly adjust your camera with fewer controls to manipulate. Some ball heads allow for independently panning around the horizontal axes without manipulating the actual socket, but this is a feature, not a standard. This is probably the most general purpose type of tripod head, and many who start with budget pan/tilt heads move to ball heads for greater flexibility and sturdier mounting.

Geared Heads
A geared head is a type of head that uses a crank-shaft + gears to rotate the head. Typically found on 3-way heads, these heads allow you to rotate the head using a crank, rather than applying force to the camera body itself, resulting in smoother movement, and a finer grain of control over moving the camera body. Architecture, and any other application requiring a fine control over placing the camera make for good uses for geared heads.

Gimbal Head
Gimbal heads are specialized heads typically reserved for long telephoto lenses (400mm+). It gets it's name from a gimbal, a type of pivot support that allows movement on a single axis. Gimbal heads are designed to allow you to rotate heavy lenses about it's center of gravity, which results in easier movement. These are used in any application that uses huge telephotos, bird-in-flight, other wildlife, sports, etc.

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What are pros and cons of different quick release systems?

Question

Some overlooked detail in photography are quick release systems. I found it tough to get good information about them, and since they tend to be rather expensive I'd like to hear pros and cons of different quick release systems and brands.

Answer

If you have any interest in extra tripod head gear, whether it be panoramic heads, macro focus rails, L-brackets or anything else in that space then your first concern is going to be interoperability and standardization.

Unfortunately the quick release market is horribly fragmented with each major tripod brand having several unique systems.

To the degree that there is any interoperability and standardization at all, the Arca-Swiss style brackets are clearly the leader.

Notably Arca-Swiss style is now the standard system for the larger third party tripod accessory vendors like Really Right Stuff and Fanotec.

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What should I look for in a tripod for medium format landscape photography?

Question

I've recently bought my first medium format camera (Bronica ETRs), but before I go out taking landscape pictures I'm in desperate need of a tripod that can support it.

My requirements:

• Weight is not an issue (The camera weighs so much that it's unlikely I'll be doing long hikes with it)
• Can hold a reasonably heavy MF camera with ease. By way of comparison, I'd say anything that could hold a 5D + 200mm lens will be ample.
• Stability is important. I've had my share of wobbly tripods and would like to get one that will last and be suitable for long exposures.
• Need to be able to accurately level or make fine adjustments
• Nothing fancy. I just want one that works, it doesn't necessarily need to be Swiss-made or gold plated. I'm aiming at the meaty bit of the price/performance curve.

What I want to know:

• What kind of head should I be looking at for landscape photography with this camera?
• Are carbon fibre legs an advantage in this situation? Why?
• What should my budget be? Ideally I'd like to keep this well under US$1000, especially as I'm willing to sacrifice on weight / portability / brand status
• What brands should I be looking at? Are there any that don't carry prestige but are still known for producing quality, functional tripods?

Answer

Normally I would recommend a geared head for precision work, particularly for a heavy camera, but I assume $1000 is your total budget.

So, instead, you should look at a Hydrostatic head. This will prevent shifting while tightening the ballhead but you still need to support the camera's weight while adjusting its position.

Carbon Fiber legs are awesome but from your requirements will only cost you more. Velbon makes high quality tripods at roughly half the price of the Manfrotto equivalent. They are generally a little more bulky and heavier but do the job very well. There is also Slik that has reputable tripods but I have not tried any of their high-end ones.

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Situations you might use USB remote mode?

Question

I hooked up the 50D to my MacBook Pro the other day at home and found it great to see exactly how a photo is going to turn out on the big screen before taking it and was wondering when such a setup might be used and how frequently it is used, considering it's not exactly something you can roam about with.

I guess the obvious ones such as long exposure (astronomy, landscape) etc, but are there other uses? Model photo shoots?

Is it better to simply use a remote instead of hooking it right up to a computer?

Answer

It's called tethered shooting, and is mostly used in studios; as you say, it's not exactly a portable setup. It has the advantage of letting you write photos direct to disk, bypassing the memory card, and as you said, you can see a photo preview large and on-screen before shooting, like a high-res version of live view.

Press photographers at football matches and other events can use wireless tethering, with a laptop connected to the internet, so that picture editors back in the office can access the photos directly almost as soon as they are taken.

If there's no overriding need to get your photos on disk immediately, however, then using a remote will do in most situations.

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Why doesn't my tripod ball head fit properly on the legs any more?

Question

I've a tripod ball head (Manfroto 496RC2) which used to fit perfectly with a tripod legs (Trax travelpod 480A) that I had. I removed the head a couple of days back and now I'm trying to reattach them but it just will not fit. It seems like either the screw in the legs have somehow become smaller or the attachment on the ball head have gotten wider.

Has anyone else had similar problem with their tripod legs / head?

Is their any kind of setting on the ball head that I'm unaware of?

Answer

I just figured out why it happened. It turns out the thread on the ball head got pushed inside (for whatever reason) and so, the screw on the legs could not fit properly.

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