What should I consider when choosing continuous lighting vs. strobes for studio photography?

Question

If one were to want to get started with studio photography (I'm thinking things like portraits, headshots, perhaps pets, etc) what would be the considerations in choosing whether to go with continuous lighting vs. strobes for the lighting equipment?

Asked by ahockley

Answer

Studio strobes:

• + More light means lower ISO, larger aperture etc.
• + Can freeze motion
• + Can overpower the ambient light meaning you can leave the room lights on to see what you're doing
• + Greater choice of flash units / accessories / lighting modifiers
• + Can be used with battery pack for location shoots
• - Have to be triggered somehow
• - Need to use a flash meter, or test shots to set exposure
• - Can be too bright (some have limited options to turn the power right down)
• - Can be more expensive to start off with

Continous Lighting

• + Can be done on the cheap using gear lying around the house
• + Can use the camera's metering system
• + Can be used for video as well
• + No need to trigger
• - Limited power output
• - Can cook your subject
• - High levels of ambient light can be undesirable when working
• - Fire risk with homemade mods!
• - There can be colour issues with some florescents

Answered by Matt Grum

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Recommendations for Wireless Flash Triggers?

Question

Currently my AB800's have a built-in optical trigger, but still requires a flash to trigger them. I'd like to move to an all wireless setup. I also have the canon ST-E2 to pair with my Sigma 500 DG Super and Canon 580 EX II.

I'd like to use a wireless trigger system that will work with both my Alien Bee's and my Speedlites.

Money isn't necessarily an issue, assuming the triggers do what I need them to do.

Answer

My apologies for linking to Strobist all the time, but as it happens there is a recent post just about that. He lists PocketWizard Plus II Transceiver as the best and most reliable, followed by RadioPopper JrX, AlienBees CyberSyncs, and Elinchrom Skyports.

You also might want to check out RadioPopper PX, which looks like it might be able to trigger slave units for your Speedlites and AlientBees at the same time.

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How can I make effective use of single portable strobe with direct lighting for an event?

Question

I've been tasked with some event photography this weekend. Although the event will be held inside, the color of the walls prevents me from using bounce flash, so I have to use direct flash with a single Nikon SB-900 strobe with a D700 body.

I'd like to avoid the "passport photo" look, but I was wondering what I can do maximize the effectiveness of a single strobe. I have a small softbox and I'm considering a flash bracket, but I don't know how much that would help. There will be many people at the event so I can only bring enough equipment that will keep me mobile without banging into people. In what ways can I make the light as pleasing as possible?

Answer

It does depend on what coverage is needed. If you have been asked to get everyone as they walk on stage, my advice is shoot on camera and get the shot.

Otherwise, When faced with that situation I have bounced, with a small reflector hand held just over the flash.

Pocket wizards or the cheaper Photix mean you can do off camera lighting. I have shot a few wedding receptions with a light on a stand, which I have moved through out the night. Speaking of wireless I have heard that the D700 can be a master, but I have no experience with that.

If you are considering wireless, then you will need to ask the event co-ordinators if there is a way to do so without being in the way.

As to the normal oncamera, it would be best to diffuse it somehow. your small softbox.

You could get a TTL cable and hold it at arms length.

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Why doesn't narrowing the aperture have the same effect as lowering the flash power?

Question

I have a small doubt here. I'm no strobist and just got my first flash (Canon 430ex II Speedlight). While I was playing around, I found that narrowing down the aperture DOES NOT have the same effect that lowering down the power of the flash has. I'm using reflective umbrella here to bounce the flash back.

Logically, narrowing down the aperture should lower the flash power reaching the sensor and hence darkening the image. But it doesn't have the same effect that lowering down the power does. And yes, I've tried it in both TTL and Manual modes.

Answer

Narrowing the aperture will reduce all light coming in to the sensor, including light coming from the flash itself and ambient light.

Reducing the flash power changes the ratio of flash light to ambient light. True, it will reduce the overall amount of light, but the reduction is not as evenly distributed as when you reduce the aperture (which reduces everything).

Taken to the extreme: if your flash power was very low and your ambient extremely high (such that the ambient dominated the exposure), lowering your flash further still would have no effect. Think, for example, of a low-power flash on a very sunny day. You'd have to look closely to notice any reduction in flash power, though aperture will have a very significant effect.

So, if ambient light is a significant factor in your exposure, then you will indeed get different results by changing one or the other.

Now, if you were using a high shutter speed to completely eliminate the effect of ambient light, then there might be finer details to discuss here. Perhaps you could post a photo of your shot and describe the details of your exposure & lighting setup?

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