Monday, January 23, 2012

Are DSLRs a dying breed, making now the time to switch to a mirrorless camera system?

Question

I came across this thought provoking article on Stuck in Customs today that makes a strong case to hold off too much investment in DSLR gear, and instead switch to mirror-less cameras like the Sony NEX. The author prefers to call such cameras 3rd generation cameras to prevent any bias.

The crux of the argument lies in the smaller size and faster shooting speeds of the new cameras, while the sensor size is an area where they seem to be lacking (Sony & Samsung cameras are APS-C sized though). Currently the big makers - Nikon & Canon - have practically no presence in this market (Nikon seems to be doing something with the V1). However, they seem to have slowed down the introduction of new entry level DSLR models over the last year as well.

So, as DSLR users looking to build and enhance their kit (there are many like me who've jumped the bandwagon over the last couple of years, and are just starting to build their kit), what are the advantages of sticking with the DSLR system rather than switching to the 3rd gen cameras?

IMO, one point that could cause a massive switch in the DSLR base would be if Nikon & Canon announced mirror-less models compatible with their current lens lineups, but that is a hypothetical scenario.

P.S. There is a similar question on mirror-less cameras, but that seems to be from the perspective of a person starting out rather than a person already invested in the DSLR system.

Answer

I don't see the DSLR going anywhere anytime soon. The advent of mirrorless cameras does not constitute a life-ending event for DSLR's, or any other type of camera design. The advent of mirrorless simply expands the available pool of camera types, diversifying the options and making it easier for each individual photographer to get the camera gear that best suits their needs and style. Mirrorless cameras certainly have their advantages, but they also have their disadvantages. No single type of camera can ever service every need perfectly.

The DSLR was the best option in most cases until now, and while I'm sure many photographers will leave them behind in order to progress onto newer technology, many more are sure to stick with them. In particular, I think people who regularly shoot a lot of action will find the very small size of mirrorless cameras (which is supposedly one of their supreme appealing attributes) a bit too small for the job. I recently upgraded from a 450D to a 7D. Aside from the amazing advancements in AF and improvements to just about everything else, the SIZE is one of its most appealing factors. It fits my hands so much better than the 450D, and its a lot easier to grip. Combined with the larger size of a telephoto lens, holding, panning, and zooming are very easy. I can't begin to fathom how one would hold and manage a camera system half the 7D size for capturing lots of action (sports, wildlife, birds) without particularly petite hands and considerable dexterity.

Smaller size also means smaller lenses, and smaller lenses mean smaller physical apertures. Physical aperture size is a very important aspect when it comes to image quality, particularly the quality of background blur. Anyone who has ever tried to use a basic point & shoot camera for serious photographic work where DOF was a critical artistic factor will understand how smaller apertures can pose a serious problem. Granted, mirrorless designs lend themselves to lenses with larger apertures than the majority of point and shoot cameras, however they will be a limiting factor in many cases.

Optical viewfinders are something you can't mimic. Electronic viewfinders are handy as they allow the mirror to be eliminated, but they have specific limitations. For one, achieving high enough pixel density necessary for being viewed so closely is currently impossible, and extremely difficult even with the necessary technology to achieve it. Compromises have to be made on that front...either using a resolution lower than would be idea, resulting in visible pixels, or using pixels that can emit all three primary colors (RGB) and cycling between the three colors on each pixel at a very high refresh rate. Both compromises reduce the final quality of what you see in the viewfinder. They are simply an option, and photographers who's needs don't demand what an optical viewfinder offers are likely to be quite happy with electronic ones.

When it comes to frame rate, there are limits to whats good. The article mentions a 60fps frame rate. Could you imagine how much memory card space you would need to capture sequence after sequence of RAW images at 60fps?!? Its astounding how much disk space you can use with a mere 8-10fps and 18mp RAW images...the 500-600 photos per card that I'm used to literally disappears in a tiny fraction of the time it took when I was limited to 3fps. Thats nothing to mention of the fact that 60fps is more than twice the frame rate preferred for most cinematic-quality video and movies...24fps, and double that of standard television at 29fps. It may be intriguing that cameras with electronic shutters can capture images that fast, but from a practical standpoint, a lower frame rate is more useful.

In the end, the SIC article comes across as a little naive, given the facts. Film SLR's are still fairly widely used today. Medium format film cameras are still fairly dominant in that format. Large format view cameras, based on one of the oldest camera designs since the advent of the camera (and the probably 1st generation cameras), are a staple of many of the worlds best landscape and studio photographers, and the industry for brand new large format cameras is quite large and profitable. The DSLR will probably diminish, both in growth and total usage, over the coming decades, but it will never disappear. It will likely remain as a primary option for photographers alongside "3rd generation" cameras, and whatever rises up in the future as a "4th generation" camera (can anyone say Lytro?)

What is the next step up from the Canon T2i?

Question

I had a Canon T2i that is damaged and so I'm in the market for a new camera. I really enjoyed the T2i and so I am considering getting another one.

From using snapsort.com to compare the T2i with a few other cameras I have not come to any definitive answers.

I am not really impressed with the flip out screen on the T3i (which seems to be mainly the only difference), and in other features the T2i still seems to be a better camera:

Picture 13.png

I borrowed a 7D for a weekend and played with it. At around $1400 I think price-wise it is a decent step up, but for features I'm not so sure. (Snapsort Comparison). I liked that the 7D is weather sealed, and I like that it has the LCD on top and extra buttons to give me quicker access to more of the advanced features. I did not like that it had a Compact Flash card - seems outdated, and otherwise the features are not really that much better than the t2i:

Picture 14.png

If I compare what you get with the 7D for $1400 with what you get with Nikkon's D7000 which is $1499 it just blows me away. I mean I don't really want to switch from Canon to Nikkon but it seems like you get a hell of a lot more for the same price.

Picture 15.png

So what is the next step up from the Canon T2i?

Hopefully not the t3i or the 7d...

Answer

Raw numerical stats don't tell the whole picture. The differences between the 7D and the D7000 are a lot less than they may seem from the comparisons you posted. Here is a basic analysis of the listed benefits of the D7000 over the 7D:

  1. IQ of 80 vs. 66
    • The larger pixels of the D7000, along with being a newer sensor design by about almost two years, do indeed give it a bit of an edge here.
    • The rating of 66 for the 7D is VERY misleading here...scan through some 500px.com photos taken with the 7D, and compare them with shots from the D7000...the differences are imperceptible. Not to mention that regardless of the IQ differences at 100% crop, both cameras take some truly stellar photos, and thats what really matters.
    • Owning a 7D myself, I would rate it more around a 72-74 than a 66, as it does lack in overall dynamic range, and its low ISO noise is a tad higher than most other Canon cameras. At higher ISO settings, noise is actually not that bad on the 7D, and it performs quite well for a high density 18mp sensor.
  2. Dynamic range of 13.9EV vs. 11.7EV
    • This is probably one of the key significant benefits of the D7000. It has about two stops better dynamic range, and that is always a valuable thing. You can ALWAYS use more dynamic range.
    • Probably not worth switching brands over, especially as Canon is releasing some fantastic new cameras this year, which seem to be pushing the envelope on every front. You might see a new 7D II by early 2013 as well...I guess we'll see when the time comes.
  3. Color depth of 23.5 bits vs. 22 bits
    • Again, this is not as significant as it sounds.
    • The differences are largely imperceptible in the vast majority of situations.
    • When it comes to print, color depth is a moot point, as color depth (or density) in print is a whole different and very complex beast. Even on a computer screen, color depth is fairly limited in the grand scheme of things.
  4. Lower noise at high ISO of 1167 vs. 854
    • This can be a confusing topic, due to the way manufacturers handle various ISO levels and how they amplify the sensor signal.
    • Canon uses a base/push/pull approach. For example, ISO 400 is a native base, and has moderate noise. ISO 320 is a pull from ISO 400, and has very low noise (less than ISO 200, about as good as or maybe even better than ISO 100) at the consequence of lower dynamic range. ISO 500 is a push from ISO 400, and has higher noise than ISO 800, also with a consequence of lower dynamic range. DR loss is about 1/3rd stop (i.e. 11.7 max DR would drop to 11.3 max DR.)
    • The 7D's noise at ISO 800 is about the same as at ISO 2500, which is higher than Nikon's best high ISO level of 1167.
    • Nikon's noise is more consistent as it is increased in 1/3rd stops, as they do not use the base/push/pull approach that Canon does, and should produce a more consistent change in DR as ISO is increased.
    • Upon visual comparison, the 7D seems to perform better at higher ISOs than the D7000. You can judge for yourself...starting at ISO800, the D7000 seems to degrade quicker than the 7D at base ISO levels, 3200 and beyond are roughly the same:
  5. More focus points of 39 vs. 19
    • The total number of focus points are not the most important aspect of an AF system. The overall capabilities, flexibility, and number of cross-type points are usually more important.
    • More focus points might help if most of the focus points are one-dimensional (single-line), and more focus points gives you more single-point selectivity when you need to focus away from the center.
    • The 7D has a full set of 19 cross type points...every point available is cross type. The D7000 has only 9 cross type points, mostly clustered around the center.
    • More cross-type focus points greatly assist in obtaining focus lock, especially for moving subjects and when contrast exists in both horizontal as well as vertical directions, and in low contrast, low light scenarios.
    • The 7D, despite its fewer total AF points, has a pretty solid lead over the Nikon from a technological standpoint, and particularly in lower light (or smaller maximum aperture) situations. It is definitely a top of the line, pro-grade AF system that borrows a lot from Canon's stellar 1D line.
    • With the numbers game, Snapsort is giving very misleading information here.
  6. Better Boost ISO
    • Boost ISO is simply digitally enhanced exposure. This is something you can always do in post with RAW, to any degree you choose, so unless you solely rely on JPEG, boost mode is meaningless.
    • Both cameras top out at a native ISO of 6400, and IMO, the 7D does a better job from ISO 800 through ISO 2500 than the D7000 (see the Vimeo links of ISO samples to judge for yourself.)

The rest of the factors are pretty minor...price is highly subjective and time dependent (I picked up my 7D brand new for $1300 on Amazon, where as the D7000 currently lists on Amazon for $1499 new.) The number of available lenses tends to leapfrog periodically, as different brands release batches of new lenses on different years, and is pretty much a moot point anyway...your never going to own all 160 some lenses from either brand, and all the critical focal lengths, designs, and lens capabilities for the essential lenses are pretty much the same for both brands. Battery life is also a highly subjective thing, and entirely depends on how your using the camera. I've had anywhere from 400 shots to over 1000 shots on a single battery with my 7D, and well over 1500 with two batteries and the Zeikos grip (which is very reasonably priced.) Video features also tend to be somewhat subjective...and are generally moot if video is not something you are even concerned with in the first place. The Nikon's ability to AF during video is intriguing, but not that useful, given that the majority of serious cinematography done with DSLR's use a proper manual focus puller device for more accurate focus that is not prone to random hunting when AF can't find its mark.

The snapsort comparison left out a few things as well. The 7D has an 8fps frame rate, vs. the D7000's 6fps. However, its more than just the frame rate difference...the 7D guarantees 8fps @ 14bit RAW with a 15-frame buffer, while the D7000 does 6fps @ 12bit RAW with an 11-frame buffer (I think it might do 14bit RAW as well with a shorter buffer...can't find any stats on that right now.) The added output bit depth is a nice bonus, but the greater frame buffer depth, along with the two extra frames per second, are truly significant when shooting action. If you don't shoot much action, then the benefits of the 7D will probably not be all that valuable to you, and sticking with the T2i might be your best option right now.

Which kit lens to get with the Panasonic GF3?

Question

I'm new to lenses, because currently I have the fixed lens Olympus XZ-1. I'm thinking of an upgrade, and I find the Panasonic GF3 very good. It has the option of two kit lenses: A pancake lens at 14mm f/2.5, or the 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6.

I saw that the bigger (14-42mm) lens has a 3x zoom, which isn't anything special and the 14mm has F2.5 in comparison to F3.5 of the 12-42mm lens. Which should I choose? Are those the only differences, -1.0 of F and 3x zoom? The 14-42mm is way bigger, and if that's the only difference maybe I'll stick with the smaller 14mm lens.

Also I am thinking of getting Raynox DCR250 to take macro shots.

My main questions are:

  • Is the only difference the zoom and the F?
  • Which one is better to use with the Raynox to make macros?
  • Which one is better for landscape photography?

Answer

I will present the "quick and dirty" version of my answer, because I could talk on this topic for pages and pages. Essentially the 14mm f/2.5 "pancake" is a prime lens, which means it does not zoom, it has one fixed focal length. So instead of zooming in and out to frame your subject, you have to move your feet along with the camera! The fixed focal length usually comes with a few advantages such as:

  • Large apertures that zoom lenses do not have
  • Very high quality optics due to easier manufacturing of the single focal length
  • Size can be a huge advantage, and only primes can really get the "pancake" form factor

The other option you are looking at is a general purpose zoom lens. The 14-42mm is equivalent to 28-84mm angle of view in the 35mm format, which is handy to know when comparing it to something like your old Olympus XZ-1 6-24mm, which had a 28-112mm 35mm equivalent angle of view. So the easiest way for you to compare the lenses on the two cameras you are considering is probably the following when considering the field of view:

  • 14mm "pancake" = 28mm field of view
  • 14-42mm = 28-84mm field of view
  • 6-24mm = 28-112mm

Someone else will likely chime in and explain how I forgot a few important details when explaining focal length conversions and field of view, but this is the simplest way I can explain it to you that I hope will make sense to a beginner. What is important to understand, is the "field of view", in that, the pancake lens will look just like your current Olympus zoomed all the way out. And the 14-42mm standard zoom will look almost like the Olympus - but will not let you zoom in quite as far.

Other things to consider as you suggested, is the maximum aperture. This is how much light the lens will let into the camera, and is very important. The larger the better. f/2.5 is the maximum the pancake lens will allow, and f/3.5 is the maximum the standard zoom will allow. Your old camera had a maximum of f/1.8 which is larger then both of these Panasonic lenses. Both zoom lenses have variable maximum apertures, so as you zoom in the maximum aperture becomes smaller, which is not a great thing. The prime "pancake" lens has only one maximum aperture since it does not zoom, which is a good thing.

I hope this helps shed a bit of light on what to purchase. In the end the choice between a prime lens and a standard zoom is really up to you, the user. I would say that the majority of people end up with a standard zoom at first, and as a second lens they may choose a prime, but this may not be the correct choice for everyone.

Sunday, January 22, 2012

Are camera sling straps comfortable to wear when you also carry a backpack?

Question

I'm interested in buying a sling strap, probably OP/TECH's Pro Loop. While looking at marketing videos for this and other brands I noticed that in all cases they show the photographer carrying only the camera.

I was wondering if the effectiveness and comfort of using this strap is impacted if you need to carry a backpack as well.

I would imagine in this case you would want to wear the sling strap over the backpack?

Answer

I'm not sure what you mean by "sling strap". I'll assume that's the same as is also called a "neck strap". Basically it's a loop of flexible material attached to your camera that you can carry it by, and large enough to loop around your neck or over your shoulder.

I like taking nature pictures and often hike for miles with a backpack and a camera. If I'm just trying to get somewhere and am not expecting to take pictures, I'll put the camera inside the backpack. But when I'm bumping around more slowly I'll carry the camera by the strap.

Hanging it just around my neck doesn't work while hiking, at least not for me. It bounces around and sways back and forth too much. I usually put it around my neck and over my left shoulder. It's still pretty quick to grab, but it's not bouncing around and in the way as much, and it also a more comfortable way to carry weight. You don't want to hang a few pounds around your neck for hours on end.

Yes, you want to put on the backpack first. If you didn't, the strap for the camera would get stuck underneath it. That would make it hard to grab and bring to up to your eye, and you'd have to take the pack off to take the camera off. If I just want to take the pack off quickly, I'll grab the camera and slide my arm out of the loop so that it's only around my neck just like I was going to take a picture. At that point the pack can come off with the camera still around the neck. Then slide the arm back thru the loop when you're done.

By the way, comfort when carrying a camera like that is about shape, not weight. I used a Nikon F3T for nearly 30 years. When I finally retired that in favor of a D3S, I was worried that it would be harder to carry since it is significantly heavier. It turns out it's the other way around. The large D3S lies flat against my body, making it comfortable. The smaller and lighter F3 would tilt partially down with most lenses attached, so the bottom edge of the camera would dig into my side a bit. I was pleasantly surprised how comfortable the D3S is to carry.

Do I need a $600 light meter or will a $250 one do?

Question

I want to learn more about light and I think finally getting a light meter will help do the trick. I'd like to see the amount of light coming from different light bulbs and the differences in the sun as it sets/rises. I don't feel like my camera's light meter is that helpful with this, I can figure a different in stops but I don't have a clear amount of actual light and how it falls off a subject. I'm using a panasonic Gh1 and a canon 600d as my cameras, and I'd like to use the meter for stills and video. A few years ago when I first looked into light meters it seemed like for all the features (such as 1 degree spot) you needed a $600 + meter, but I recently read this thread where a much cheaper $230 Sekonic version was mentioned and the person who answered the question actually used the cheap meter.

So I'm wondering what you guys think, and would if a $600+ meter would be future proof? Because that could possibly effect my decision if I'm going be looking to upgrade in a year. Thanks guys!

Answer

The 308 is a good incident light/flash meter, and it's about all you need for that (unless you need a built-in PocketWizard transmitter and/or need the meter to do simple lighting ratio calculations for you). It's only a slight pain to exchange the Lumidisc (flat for measuring individual lights) and Lumisphere (a hemisphere for the overall exposure reading). There are parts you can lose -- the 358 and 758 both use a retractable sphere instead of changing parts.

The reflected light reading is about the same as you'd get from your camera set to center-weighted with a normal lens, so its utility as a reflected light meter really depends on whether your camera has a meter at all. With a DSLR, you'd be better off going TTL, but if you ever decide to use a medium format film camera or a press/view camera, it may come in handy.

The only real shortcoming is spot metering. If you can find the spot metering attachment (I don't know if it's currently offered, but the one for the discontinued 328 should fit since they use the same sphere/disc), it's a five degree spot (not one) and there is viewfinder parallax to deal with -- I found it was very difficult to get a reading off of a specific part of a scene with the 328 and wound up using a Pentax Spotmeter 5 instead.

Why are greycards used for white balance?

Question

I know 18% grey cards are supposed to provide a neutral color to set custom white balance. But why are grey cards used instead of pure white ones?

My assumptions: Is a specific greytone easier to produce than pure white? Does white stain so much easier? (or Does grey just doesn't show stains that much?)

Answer

When you have already set your exposure parameters, white could be clipped in some single color channel (but not all, so your camera won't show it as blown), therefore not being very good basis for color balance adjustment.

Also, paper will turn yellow during time. And just looking at the sheets currently on my desk, there's three different tones of white papers already.

That said, I've used white paper many times and it will get you close enough in all but very critical studio shoots. Very often you'll have multiple different light sources, reflections from colored surfaces and/or shadows vs. lit areas, all having much more impact on colors than slight imperfection in metering the white balance. Just make sure you don't clip any color channels (e.g. by spot metering without compensation from the paper, or verifying exposure parameters using color channel histograms).

How do I decide between “RAW as Master” and “JPEG as Master” when importing RAW+JPEG into Aperture?

Question

I guess this comes down to an Aperture question and a more general post-processing question.

I've been shooting RAW+JPEG and importing both to Aperture with the RAW image set as the master. But I've noticed that in low-light or high-contrast photos, if I switch the JPEG to master the photo "looks better".

Why does the version I set as master affect the appearance of the photo in my library in Aperture (where does the other one go exactly)?

And why does the RAW image seem to look worse in these situations? How can I figure out approximately what the camera did for the JPEG so that I can best process the RAW image?

Answer

The Aperture software display the one that you selected as master with the applied changes. If you compare an imported RAW with a JPG, Aperture treats them a little bit different. That is until you make any changes that is. When showing a JPG imported image, the camera has already performed all the post processing, like white balance adjustment and in some cases noise reduction. The RAW image is only corrected with "RAW fine tuning". It does not have any noise reduction or sharpening and stuff. Therefore you have to work more with the RAW image than the JPG image. The reason for cameras to have a JPG + RAW mode is for you to get a quick way of getting a usable image without doing any post processing.

I think it is impossible for you to figure out how the camera did to convert from RAW to JPG. However you could test the preset "Auto Enhance" which could give you similar result. It perform things like sharpening and adjusting the colors of the pictures. Note that the noise reduction is not adjusted when applying "Auto Enhance".